Sewing Machine Stitches (Best for Beginners to Use)
If you are new to sewing, you might be wondering, “What are the basic sewing machine stitches I will need to use to get going on my first project?” Well, there are 2 sewing machine stitches you will definitely need and many more that are nice to have. In this guide, you’ll learn the essential stitches every beginner should know, what each stitch is used for, and the recommended stitch settings.
Best Sewing Machine Stitches (Quick Guide)
The most common types of sewing machine stitches you will use are:
- Straight Stitch
- Zig-zag Stitch
- Overcast Stitch (overlock stitch)
- Blind Hem Stitch
- Decorative Stitches
- Buttonhole Stitches
Sewing Machine Stitches Tutorial
Different brands and models of sewing machines can vary enormously in what they offer. When you go to purchase your first machine, your instinct will be to try and get the model that offers the most sewing machine stitches. But in reality, you won’t need or use many of them. For the majority of your sewing projects, you will just use 2 of these – the straight stitch and zig-zag stitch.
Sewing machine stitches are used for garment construction, hems, stretch fabrics, seam finishes, and decorative sewing. This guide covers the most useful machine stitches every beginner should know.
How to Change Sewing Machine Stitches
Mechanical machines will have a pattern selector dial either at the front or side of the machine to select the different sewing machine stitches. Computerized sewing machines will have a digital panel, usually at the front, where you can select your chosen stitch.
💡Did you know? You can sew 99% of all sewing projects with a straight or zig-zag stitch. All the rest of the sewing machine stitches are just a bonus and not strictly necessary as there are always alternatives.
12 Types of Sewing Machine Stitches
Most modern machines have a dizzying array of decorative machine stitches as well, but if you are like me, you will probably rarely use these.
Before you start reading, here is a comparison table of the most common 12 stitches.
| Stitch Name | Primary Use | Best For Fabric Type | Stretch? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight Stitch | Sewing seams, topstitching, basting | Woven fabrics | ❌ No |
| Zig-Zag Stitch | Finishing raw edges, sewing knits, elastic | Knits & woven | ✅ Yes |
| Overcast (Overlock) Stitch | Finishing raw edges neatly | Woven & knits | Slight |
| Blind Hem Stitch | Invisible hems | Woven fabrics | ❌ No |
| Buttonhole Stitch | Creating buttonholes | All garment fabrics | ❌ No |
| Triple Straight Stitch | Reinforced seams | Heavy fabrics, stress areas | Slight |
| Stretch Stitch | Sewing knit seams | Knits, activewear | ✅ Yes |
| Triple Zig-Zag | Sewing elastic, sportswear | Stretch fabrics | ✅ Yes |
| Satin Stitch | Appliqué, lettering | All fabrics (stabilized) | ❌ No |
| Decorative Stitches | Embellishment | Stable fabrics | Varies |
| Scallop Stitch | Decorative edging | Lightweight fabrics | ❌ No |
| Faggoting Stitch | Decorative seam joining | Lightweight woven | ❌ No |
Quick Summary for Beginners
1. Straight Sewing Machine Stitches
If you have a really old machine and all it does is straight stitch, then you are ready to tackle most sewing projects. You can even finish raw edges with a straight stitch, including French seams
Here is the sewing machine stitch guide for straight stitch:
- Length 2.0-3.0 is used for sewing seams and the majority of your sewing.
- Length 4.0 is used for gathering fabric and machine basting fabric. Gathering, of course, is used for ruffles. Long, basting stitches are used in places where you want to temporarily hold pieces together before the final stitches. A long length is used so it can be easily removed if necessary.
The straight stitch is definitely number one on the list of sewing machine stitches since it is the most used stitch on your sewing machine. Cheaper machines generally have several pre-set lengths, while more expensive machines have adjustable stitch lengths.
When sewing a straight stitch, it is important to remember that your needle position should be set to the center of the presser foot.
2. Zig-Zag Sewing Machine Stitches
Zig zag stitch sewing machine stitches are commonly used to stop raw edges from fraying. It is also a great stitch for sewing knits without a serger as it has a built-in elasticity, meaning your stitches won’t break when pulled.
I also use a very narrow zig-zag for sewing knits and sewing tulle. Zig-zag can be used to applique fun motifs on your projects and for decoration. When determining the correct width and length of a zig-zag stitch, it can take a little experimenting, but here are some settings to get you started.
- Sewing knits on the seams – When sewing knits, you want the zig-zag to be so small that it almost looks straight. Try a width of 1.0 and a length of 2.5. Test a scrap and pull the seam. If the stitches don’t break under gentle pressure, you are ready to go!
- Sewing knit hems – A zig-zag can be used to hem knits. Turn up the hem and zig-zag over the raw edge. The size of the zig-zag should be much wider than the seams. Test a width of 4.0 and a length of 3.0
- Finishing raw edges – If you use zig-zag as a seam finish over raw edges, it can stop them from fraying and increase the longevity of your items. Use a wide zig-zag of width 4.0 and length 3.0 right on the edge of the fabric.
- Applique – Applique is done with a very close zig-zag stitch so that very little fabric is showing between the stitches. A common setting is length 0.5 and width 4.0. Some machines will have applique stitches as a separate setting, but really, all you need is the basic zig-zag.
- Gathering with zig-zag: Did you know you can gather with a zig-zag stitch? By zig-zagging over a slippery cord such as dental floss or crotchet yarn, you can then pull the cord to produce gathers in tricky fabrics such as tulle and canvas. Read how in my blog articles on how to gather tulle and gathering with cord.
- Sewing elastic: Zig-zag can be used to sew elastic in leotards and for fold over elastic in underwear.
Many machines will also have a 3-step zig-zag stitch which is used for sewing picot (lingerie) elastic and occasionally raw edges. I don’t use this stitch much, but you may find that on some fabrics, the 3 step zig-zag can produce flatter edges that don’t curl up.
3. Overlock (Over-Edge) Stitch
Most modern machines will have overlock, over-edge or overcast stitch, which can be used to stop edges from fraying, similar to a serger. The main difference between a serger and using your regular machine to do an overlock stitch is that the raw edges are not cut off as you sew.
Most machines will come with a specialty sewing machine foot to do this stitch. The trick to getting neat edges is to trim the fabric immediately before sewing. If you overlock stitch over a ragged edge, it still won’t look good. Personally, I find a simple zig-zag is quicker than changing feet to do an overlock stitch but give it a test and see which one you like best for a seam finish.
If you are going to be sewing regularly or would like to make some money from sewing, you would instead need a serger (also called an overlocker in some countries.) Have a read of my article on sewing machine vs serger vs cover stitch machine to see which machine will suit your purpose the best.
4. Blind Hem Stitch
Blind stitch hem sewing machine stitches are used to create invisible hems on dresses, skirts, and pants.
The stitch looks like an uneven zig-zag, and generally, even basic machines will have this stitch. Once finished, you can hardly see the stitches on the right side of the garment. These stitches are best used for wider straight-edged hems.
5. Decorative Sewing Machine Stitches
Different machines have different decorative stitches, so take a look to see which yours has. If it only has a few or even none, don’t worry too much. Most people don’t use these stitches a lot, and in fact, I can’t remember the last time I used them.
These stitches can be used for a decorative effect on your projects. Use a contrasting thread for a pop of color and mix and match patterns on the same project. They are best used on smaller items such as home decor and baby clothing since the intricacies of the stitches can’t really be seen from a distance. So grab a piece of scrap fabric and test some of the decorative stitches on your machine. Here are some of the decorative sewing machine stitches that my Janome can sew.
My favorite is the scallops at the bottom. I think these look nice if you do several rows in different colors,
6. Buttonhole Sewing Machine Stitches
Even the most basic of machines these days come with a buttonhole stitch. Buttonhole stitches may be automatic, meaning it sews all sides of the buttonhole at the press of a button, or they may have a couple of steps where you need to change the stitch setting.
For really basic machines where there is no specialty buttonhole stitch, you can sew buttonholes with a zig-zag instead. Read all about how to sew buttonholes by machine.
7. Triple Straight Stitch
The triple straight stitch is a strong, durable stitch that sews three stitches forward and then one stitch back. It’s ideal for areas that need extra strength. Use it on seams on heavy fabrics or areas that experience a lot of stress. Great for the crotch of pants or shoulder seams.
8. Satin Stitch
The satin stitch is a tight, dense stitch often used for decorative purposes. It creates a smooth, shiny finish that’s perfect for outlining shapes, creating text, or adding bold, solid lines to your fabric.
9. Scallop Stitch
The scallop stitch creates a series of small, rounded curves that look like a row of scallops. This decorative stitch is often used on the edges of fabric, It adds a pretty, finished detail, perfect for hems or decorative borders.
10. Stretch Stitch
Stretch stitches are used to sew knit fabrics. They range in styles, but all will stretch when pulled. This means that your seams won’t break as the stretch fabric stretches with your body.
11. Faggoting Stitch
The faggoting stitch is a decorative stitch that joins two pieces of fabric. It’s great for adding a lacy look to seams or creating a decorative border between fabrics.
12. Triple Zig-Zag
The triple zig zag stitch is a flexible stitch that works well for stretchy fabrics. It sews three small stitches in each zig and zag, making it more durable and ideal for seams that need extra strength, like on sportswear or elastic.
In Conclusion
So there are my top 6 most used sewing machine stitches. If all your machine does is straight stitch and zig-zag, you can pretty much do every sewing project you wish. Everything else is a bonus. What are your favorite sewing machine stitches, and what do you use them for? Share your thoughts below.
For a complete overview of hand, machine, and decorative stitches, read the full types of sewing stitches guide for beginners.
More Sewing Machine Stitches
Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
They vary enormously by machine type and brand. I would contact your sewing machine’s manufacturer or look at their website.
Hi lusia,is there an app where I can get different machine stitches,or can you send me clear images of different decorative stitches.
Regds
Peter
You would need to find the manual. Here is an article on finding manuals https://blog.treasurie.com/sewing-machine-manuals/
My singer sewing machine has some of tge stitches marked in red. What are they used for? Would appreciate some guidelines, please.