Bullion Knot Stitch: Easy Tutorial, Tips & Projects

The bullion knot is a beautiful embroidery stitch that adds texture and dimension to hand embroidery projects. Although it looks intricate, it becomes surprisingly easy once you master the wrapping technique. Whether you’re embellishing floral embroidery or adding decorative details to your next project, this guide will show you how to create neat, even bullion knots with confidence.

What Is a Bullion Knot?

A bullion knot, sometimes called a bullion stitch, is a decorative embroidery stitch that creates a smooth, coiled stitch with a raised, three-dimensional appearance. Unlike a French knot, which forms a small rounded knot, a bullion knot can be made in varying lengths, making it ideal for creating petals, rosebuds, leaves, insects, and textured floral designs. Because the stitch can be adjusted in both length and thickness, it’s widely used in hand embroidery, cutwork, and smocking to add depth and realistic detail.

You may also come across this stitch under several different names, including:

• Porto Rico Rose
• Coil Stitch
• Grub Knot
• Worm Stitch

Although the names differ, they all refer to the same embroidery technique.

Want to learn more stitches? See the full embroidery stitches guide.

How to Do a Bullion Knot (Step-by-Step)

1. Mark the Stitch

Mark two points on your fabric, A and B. The distance between these points determines the finished length of the bullion knot. Then, bring the needle up through point A.

2. Make a Small Backstitch

Insert the needle down through point B, then bring it back up a thread or two away from point A. Leave the needle in the fabric while you prepare the wraps.

3. Wrap the Thread

Wrap the embroidery thread evenly around the needle, creating a neat coil. The wrapped section should be approximately the same length as the distance between A and B. Too many wraps can cause the stitch to curl, while too few wraps won’t fully cover the stitch.

4. Pull the Needle Through

Hold the wrapped coils gently with one hand while carefully pulling the needle through with the other. Allow the wrapped thread to settle neatly onto the fabric before inserting the needle back into point B to secure the stitch. With practice, your bullion knots will lie flat and create smooth, even coils.

Bullion Knot Embroidery Projects

Once you’ve mastered the basic bullion knot, you can use it to create various textured embroidery designs, including:

Bullion Knot Roses

Bullion knot roses are a classic embroidery favorite, especially on smocked dresses and heirloom sewing projects. Begin with two short bullion knots in the darkest shade to create the flower center. Then, add slightly longer knots in a medium shade around the center, then finish with longer, lighter-colored bullion knots to form the outer petals. For very long petals, couch them into position if needed.

Bullion Knot Rosebuds

Use several shades of pink to build up a realistic rosebud. Start with a dark red bullion knot to form the center. Stitch a slightly longer dark pink bullion knot beside it, then continue adding bullion knots in medium pink and light pink, overlapping them to create the layered shape of the bud. Finish with a green fly stitch to form the leaves.

Bullion Knot Strawberries

Thread your needle with red embroidery floss and begin stitching bullion knots at the top of the strawberry, working downward in slightly overlapping rows toward the tip. Overlap the knots through the center of the strawberry to create a full, rounded shape.

Add small seed stitches in black or yellow to represent the seeds, then finish with embroidered leaves and a stem. You can even use bullion knots to create the leafy top of the strawberry.

Work overlapping red bullion knots from the top of the strawberry downward. Add tiny seed stitches in black or yellow to represent the seeds, then finish with embroidered leaves and a stem.

Bullion Knot Starfish

Bullion knots can also be used to create textured starfish.

Begin stitching from the center and work long bullion knots outward to form each arm. One of the advantages of this design is that the arms don’t need to be perfectly symmetrical, giving the finished starfish a natural appearance. Because this project uses longer bullion knots, it’s best suited to stitchers who are already comfortable with the basic bullion knot technique.

Tips for Better Bullion Knots

• Use the Right Needle: A milliner’s (straw) needle is the best choice for bullion knots because its shaft is the same thickness from the eye to the point. This allows the wrapped thread to slide off smoothly, unlike a regular embroidery needle, which tapers near the eye and can make pulling the needle through the wraps much more difficult.
• Keep the Wraps Even: Wrap the thread evenly around the needle using gentle, consistent tension. Uneven or overly tight wraps can make the needle difficult to pull through and result in lumpy or distorted bullion knots.
• Match the Wrap Length to the Stitch: The wrapped section should be approximately the same length as the finished stitch. Too few wraps can leave gaps, while too many wraps may cause the bullion knot to curl instead of lying flat against the fabric.

Bullion Knot FAQs

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In Conclusion

Bullion knots are one of the most versatile textured stitches in hand embroidery. Once you’ve mastered the basic technique, you can use them to create beautiful roses, flower buds, leaves, strawberries, and countless decorative designs. With a little practice, this classic embroidery stitch will quickly become one of the most useful techniques in your stitching toolbox.

• More Embroidery Stitches:
• Lazy Daisy Stitch
• Stem Stitch
• Couching Stitch
• Fishbone Stitch
• Whipped Backstitch
• Satin Stitch