Buttonhole Stitch: Easy Embroidery Tutorial for Beginners

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Buttonhole stitch is a versatile hand embroidery stitch used for decorative embroidery, applique edging, cutwork, and hand-sewn buttonholes. This beginner-friendly tutorial will show you how to do buttonhole stitch step by step, including flower variations and tips for achieving neat, professional results.

How to Do Buttonhole Stitch (Quick Guide)

Here’s a quick glimpse to the steps you need to take to sew a buttonhole stitch:

Mark two parallel guide lines.
Bring the thread up through the fabric.
Insert the needle and loop the thread under it.
Pull the thread downward to form the purl.
Repeat evenly along the stitch line.

What is Buttonhole Stitch?

Buttonhole stitch is a hand embroidery stitch with a knot created at the end of each stitch, known as “purling.” It has a very firm edge and is perfect for fabric embroidery and stitching around shapes. Originally, the buttonhole stitch was used to strengthen the edges of buttonholes and prevent them from fraying.

For more ideas, explore my guide to beginner embroidery stitches.

How to Do Buttonhole Stitch (Step-by-Step)

Supplies

Embroidery Hoop: Whether you need a hoop to do a buttonhole stitch depends on your purpose. If you are sewing buttonholes or using them as edging, then you would normally sew it freehand. For embroidery and buttonhole stitch flowers, a hoop will hold the fabric tight and prevent any puckering.
Thread and Needle: Buttonhole stitch embroidery is traditionally done with embroidery floss or embroidery thread and an embroidery needle.

1. Mark Guides and Bring the Thread Up

Draw 2 parallel lines along which to sew your stitch. Once you have practiced a few times, you will probably not need these lines. Then, bring the thread to the top of the fabric on the bottom right at (1).

2. Make the First Buttonhole Stitch

Insert the needle along the same line as (1) at (2) and exit the needle straight up on the second line at (3). Next, make a loop with the thread passing under the needle both at points (3) and (2). This is the important part that differentiates the buttonhole stitch from blanket stitch.

3. Pull the Thread to Form the Purl

Pull the needle through and pull the thread down to form the purl. If you pull the thread up you get a strange double loop.

Remember: PULL DOWN

4. Sew the Next Buttonhole Stitch

Move the needle across to (4) and exit at (5). Once again, loop the thread under the needle at both points (4) and (5).

5. Repeat the Buttonhole Stitch

Continue to repeat the stitch, and you will see the reinforced edge appearing.

Buttonhole Stitch Flowers & Variations

You can use this stitch to make lovely round wheels.

Draw 2 circles like a donut. After you have marked the outlines, bring the thread to the top on the edge of the outside ring at (1).

Insert the needle at (2) which is a short distance across from (1) and exit the needle horizontally on the edge of the smaller inner circle. Loop the thread underneath the needle at the tip and back.

EMBroidery templates

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shop designs

EMBroidery templates

Cats

shop cats

EMBroidery templates

Letters

shop letTers

Pull the needle through and then pull the thread down to form the purl.

Repeat in a circle.

Here are buttonhole stitches in various sizes. You could pair them with a whipped backstitch to make stems. Another great stitch for making flowers is the web stitch, which makes little roses.

Tips for Perfect Buttonhole Stitch

Pull the Thread Down to Form the Purl: The most important part of buttonhole stitch is forming the purl correctly. After pulling the needle through, pull the working thread downward rather than upward. Pulling up can create an uneven double loop instead of the neat edge that defines buttonhole stitch.
Mark Guide Lines for Even Stitches: If you are new to buttonhole stitch, draw parallel guide lines before you start. These lines help keep your stitches evenly spaced and create a more professional-looking finish.
Keep Your Stitch Tension Consistent: Pull each stitch firmly but not too tightly. Consistent tension creates uniform purls and prevents the fabric from puckering or the stitches from looking uneven.
Use an Embroidery Hoop for Decorative Stitching: When using buttonhole stitch for embroidery designs or flower wheels, an embroidery hoop helps keep the fabric taut and prevents puckering. For hand-sewn buttonholes and edging, you can usually work without a hoop.
Choose the Right Embroidery Thread: Embroidery floss is traditionally used for buttonhole stitch and produces a well-defined decorative edge. Using a smooth embroidery thread will help the purls stand out clearly and create a neat finish.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is buttonhole stitch used for?

Buttonhole stitch is commonly used for embroidery edging, applique, cutwork embroidery, decorative flower wheels, and reinforcing handmade buttonholes.

Is buttonhole stitch the same as blanket stitch?

No. While the two stitches look similar, the needle placement differs. Buttonhole stitch forms a purl edge, while blanket stitch exits at the fabric edge.

Do I need an embroidery hoop for buttonhole stitch?

Not always. For decorative embroidery and flower motifs, a hoop is helpful. For hand-sewn buttonholes and edging, many embroiderers work without one.

Can beginners learn buttonhole stitch?

Yes. Buttonhole stitch is considered beginner-friendly and only requires a few simple movements to create a decorative edge.

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In Conclusion

Buttonhole stitch is a winner for a decorative stitch and a professional-looking edging stitch in embroidery and applique. Once you master the basic technique and learn to form consistent purls, you can use them for everything from decorative flower wheels to reinforced buttonholes and appliqué edges.