Catch Stitch: How to Sew Catch Stitch for Hems

Catch stitch is a hand sewing stitch commonly used for hemming thick fabrics, knit garments, and couture sewing projects. The crossed stitches create a flexible hem with slight stretch, making catch stitch ideal for garments that need movement and drape. Because the stitches remain mostly hidden from the right side of the fabric, the catch stitch creates professional-looking hems for skirts, coats, pants, and tailored garments. This tutorial will show you how to sew a catch stitch as well as give you tips for getting the best-looking stitches.

What is Catch Stitch?

The catch stitch is a durable hemming stitch that is ideal for hems of bulky fabrics and even stretchy fabric, as it has a bit of elasticity and allows a bit of movement in the hem, which allows the hem to hang nicely. The back of the fabric looks like diagonal stitches forming a cross.

Learn more beginner hand sewing techniques in the complete hand stitching guide.

When to Use Catch Stitch

While a catch stitch is mainly used for hems, it can also be used for attaching lining, sewing curved edges, and attaching facings when you don’t want stitches to show on the outside. Use it for strong, flexible, and invisible stitches. Catch stitch is used for the following types of hems:

• Wool skirts
• Wide hems
• Knit hems
• Thick fabric
• Couture fashion

This common stitch is useful for the hems of heavyweight fabrics and gives a professional look to the finish of a tailored garment. The catch stitch is very similar to the herringbone stitch in embroidery. It is made by small stitches above and below that form a cross.

How to Sew Catch Stitch (Step by Step)

1. Press the Hem

Press the catch stitch hem on the inside of the garment according to your pattern instructions. Catch stitch is normally done on a wide hem. For my sample, I pressed up the raw edge by 1/2 inch (12mm) and then pressed the hem up 1 inch (2.5) again.

For really bulky hems such as those found in a thick wool skirt, you may only be able to fold the hem once. You can serger the edge to stop fraying or add a piece of bias over the raw edge. An overcast stitch could also be used as an edge finish.

If your pattern has a narrow hem, adjust the seam allowance to change it to a wide hem.

2. Starting Stitch

Choose a hand sewing needle size suited to your fabric and a cotton color to match. I have used the red thread just so you can see the stitches. When you do a catch stitch, you want it to be invisible on the outside.

Thread the needle double and knot it at the end. For really fine work you could use a single thread.

You will be working the catch stitch from right to left (assuming you are right-handed). This is a different direction to most hand stitches so may feel a little strange at first.

Push the needle into the fold of the hem, to the top of the fabric, so that the knot and end of the thread is enclosed in the fold. This should be around 1/4 to 1/2 inch (6-12mm) from the fold and not right on the edge.

3. First Catch Stitch

Insert the needle at (2) and take a small stitch from right to left. You will notice that (2) is at a diagonal angle from (1).

The smaller the stitches at (2) the more invisible your outside hem will be.

DIRECTION OF CATCH STITCH – You will work from left to right with the needle always pointing to the left

4. Repeat Catch Stitches

Re-insert the needle in a straight line (horizontal) into the hem at (3). This is parallel to the first stitch and catching only the folded hem. The needle should not go through to the outside fabric. You will see that this is a small-sized stitch like at (2).

Pull the thread through and you should see a cross shape just above the fold of the hem.

Repeat steps one, two, and three and you will catch your hem like a professional seamstress.

In the photo below you can see how the back and right side of the fabric look. The zig-zagged stitches hold down the hem edge and prevent fraying.

When done in a matching thread color, those tiny stitches on the front will be almost invisible.

Alternatives to Catch Stitch

If you don’t want to use catch stitch for hems you can use a basic running stitch or back stitch. These 2 hand stitches however will show on the outside of the garment fabric. You can also use sewing machine stitches with a straight stitch or blind hem stitch.

Catch Stitch vs Slip Stitch

Catch stitch and slip stitch are both used for hand-sewn hems, but catch stitch creates crossed, flexible stitches, while slip stitch creates nearly invisible, folded-edge stitching.

Catch Stitch	Slip Stitch
Crossed zigzag stitches	Hidden folded-edge stitches
Flexible and stretchy	Nearly invisible finish
Best for thick fabrics	Best for delicate fabrics
Good for knit hems	Good for formal hems

Common Catch Stitch Mistakes and Tips

Catch stitch can become bulky or visible if the stitches are too large or pulled too tightly. Sewing evenly spaced diagonal stitches will help create smoother more flexible hems.

Common Mistake	Tip
Visible stitches	Use matching thread
Tight hems	Leave stitches slightly loose
Uneven crosses	Keep stitch spacing consistent
Bulky hems	Trim excess seam allowance
Puckered fabric	Avoid pulling thread tightly

Catch Stitch FAQs

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Catch Stitch -In Conclusion

Catch stitch is a useful hand sewing technique for hemming knit fabrics, thick garments, and couture sewing projects where flexibility and movement are important. The crossed stitches create durable hems with slight stretch while remaining mostly invisible from the outside of the garment. Once you master catch stitch, you can create professional-looking hems that drape beautifully and move comfortably with the fabric.

More How to Hand Sew Articles

1. How to Sew a Hem 
2. Sew a Narrow Hem
3. How to Hand Sew
4. Tacking Stitch
5. Pick Stitch