How to Do Chain Stitch Embroidery with the Easy Method

Chain stitch embroidery is one of the easiest and most versatile hand embroidery stitches to learn. This classic looped stitch is perfect for outlines, borders, lettering, flowers, and decorative filling. In this beginner-friendly tutorial, you’ll learn how to do chain stitch step by step, along with several easy variations including lazy daisy, open chain stitch, and whipped chain stitch.

What is Chain Stitch

Chain stitch is a decorative embroidery stitch made from a series of connected loops that resemble a chain. It has been used for centuries in hand embroidery to create outlines, borders, lettering, flowers, vines, and filling stitches. Because it follows curves beautifully and is easy to learn, chain stitch is one of the first embroidery stitches recommended for beginners.

For a full list of stitches, see my complete guide to basic embroidery stitches.

How simple is chain stitch embroidery? It really is a one-two-three kind of stitch. Looped together, the chains link with each other, and you can direct their journey across your fabric for as long as you wish. So, set your hoop up, choose your thread, and get ready to go looping chains together.

Supplies

• HOOPS – Like all embroidery, chain stitch is easiest when sewn in a hoop or frame to hold the fabric tight. This will help you get nice and even stitches and prevent any puckering of the fabric. Hoops are cheap and don’t need to be large as you can move them around on a larger piece of fabric.
• FABRICS – The best fabrics for embroidery are open weave fabrics that are easy for the needle to penetrate. Try linen or an unbleached calico like my sample. Decorative embroidery used for wall hangings is often done on aida fabric which has a really open weave and threads that you can count.
• NEEDLE – For most of these fabrics you will just need an embroidery needle with a large eye. Read more about types of hand sewing needles.
• THREADS – For my sample I have used a 6 strand embroidery floss. This gives quite a chunky look to the chain stitch embroidery that I like. You can use less strands for finer work if you have more patience than me.

How to Do Chain Stitch Embroidery (Step by Step)

If you are new to embroidery, then have a read of my article on how to embroider for lots of suggestions on tools and basic techniques for your new hobby.

Step 1 – Starting the Stitch

Embroidery thread is normally threaded singularly. (ie the thread is not doubled over). If you have any problem getting a thick thread through the eye of the needle, use a needle threader. This nifty little device will save you a lot of frustration.

Bring your floss up through the back of your hoop at your starting point at (1). 

What to do with the tail – Leave a tail at the back to catch in later so the back is neatened beautifully. Hold the tail thread securely as you start your first chain stitch or put some tape over it. You could also tie a knot in the end for a faster alternative.

Step 2 – First Stitch

Your thread is now on the right side of the fabric. Insert the needle at point (2) which is next to point (1) where the thread came to the front of the fabric. (It should be a separate hole).

Exit the needle at point (3) which is just in front of (1) and (2).

IMPORTANT: Wrap the thread under the tip of the needle and gently it through to the right side.  This will make your first chain.

Size of Stitches – The distance of (3) from (1)(2) determines the size of the chain. If you are just doing a sample to learn how to do chain stitch embroidery, then make (3) 1/4 inch (6mm) from points (1) and (2). This will give you a large enough stitch to see what you are doing in the beginning. You can move down to really fine stitching as you gain more confidence.

Here is how it looks once the needle has exited at (3).

Step 3 – Anchor and Repeat

The embroidery floss is pulled through and acts as the anchor for the next chain. Continue to create chains as you insert the needle into the space in the previous chain next to the point where the last insert was made. Just to be clear this is next to point (3) above and inside the chain.

Wrap the floss around the needle and there is your next chain.

Look how a whole chain can be curved or straight.

Tips for Sewing Chain Stitch Embroidery

• DON’T PULL – Do not pull too tightly as the chain will lose its lovely linked effect and the material will pucker.
• CONTROL – Hold each stitch gently with your thumb over the top so you can control the loop. As you practice, you will perfect the size and shape of each stitch.
• GAPS AND SIZING – Watch the gap you leave as you insert the needle to make each stitch as this determines the size of the stitch.
• UNPICKING – If you should change your mind this stitch is easy to undo and start again.  The loops just unravel, and you redirect and go again.

Chain Stitch Embroidery Variations

Chain stitch is such a great basic stitch it stands to reason that it would be the foundation stitch for many variations. Chain stitch variations can be as simple as adding a different colored thread to this beautiful stitch. It is an excellent outliner, edge definer, and a good filler in stitch too.

We will cover several variations, and it could be a good idea to make a sampler of the stitches and use a fabric pen to write the name of the variation underneath.

• The Lazy Daisy is a variation of the chain stitch embroidery that is extremely popular and best of all, easy to sew. The loops are sewn individually around a circle to form petals.
• The open chain stitch is sometimes known as ladder stitch and square chain stitch. It is helpful to draw two parallel lines to keep the ladder running in the right direction and spaced accurately.
• The detached chain stitch refers to a chain stitch not joined to the other chain stitches. It is often known as lazy daisy stitch and is used to make petal or leaf designs. The loop of the detached chain is secured with a small stitch at the tip of the loop to create the desired petal effect. When these stitches are worked in a circle, they form the daisy’s petals.

Chain Stitch FAQs

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In Conclusion

Chain stitch embroidery is one of the most useful hand embroidery stitches you’ll learn. Once you’ve mastered the basic loop, you can create beautiful borders, flowers, lettering, vines, and decorative fillers. It’s an essential stitch for every beginner and forms the foundation of many other embroidery techniques.

Chain stitch embroidery is a must-learn for every beginner.  It will continue to be a favorite as you see its potential in so many different scenarios.  Getting caught up in chain stitch will keep you ‘linked – in’  to embroidery!

MORE EMBROIDERY STITCHES

1. Backstitch
2. Blanket Stitch
3. Buttonhole Stitch
4. Chain Stitch Embroidery
5. Chevron Stitch
6. Couching Stitch
7. Cross Stitch
8. Double Herringbone Stitch
9. How to Embroider
10. Faggoting Embroidery
11. Feather Stitch
12. Fern Stitch