Closed Seams – Best Guide & Tutorial for Beginners

Closed seams fully enclose or neatly finish raw edges, helping prevent fraying while improving the appearance and longevity of sewing projects. Learning about closed seams is an important step toward creating professional-looking garments with clean, durable finishes. These seam finishes are commonly used in high-end fashion, couture sewing, delicate fabrics, and durable garments like denim. No frayed looks or shabby stitching for Haute Couture’s best designs. These types of seams neaten the edges in a way that adds to the quality of the garment.

What are Closed Seams?

Closed seams are the exact opposite of open seams because everything from the seam allowance and the raw edges is enclosed in the finishing off of the seam. There are different types of closed seams, but the principle is the same. The entire seam is neatened, and there are no raw edges sticking out at the end of the process.

If you are learning garment construction, explore the full types of seams guide for more sewing seam tutorials and finishing techniques.

Closed vs Open Seams

In a closed seam, the seam allowance is either pressed to one side or encased in the fabric entirely. Contrast this to an open seam where the seam allowances are pressed open, and then the edges are finished.

When to Use Closed Seams

It is important to choose the best kind of closed seam to suit your fabric and the garment you are making. French seams, for example, are better for lightweight fabrics. A flat felled seam is better for tougher fabrics like denim.  The stitch length is important, for the success of the seam, especially with bulky fabrics.

Types of Closed Seams

Here are 7 kinds of closed seams to consider. Each seam is different and suited to different purposes and types of fabrics, but the outcome is the same, a closed seam.

1. Zig-Zag Closed Seams
2. Overcast Closed Seams
3. French Seams
4. Bound Seams
5. Welt Seams
6. Lapped Seams
7. Fell Seams

1. Zig-Zag Closed Seams

Stitch the seam with a straight stitch at the seam allowance. Then press the raw edges to one side and use a wide zig-zag stitch to finish. It is best to sew a little in from the raw edge to prevent puckering of the stitches.

2. Overcast

Machine overcast stitches are a specialty stitch on a regular sewing machine designed to mimic a serged edge. Unlike a serger, an overcast stitch does not cut and sew at the same time. It is important to start with a clean raw edge and to have an overcast presser foot.

3. French Closed Seams

French seams are ideal for delicate fabrics like chiffon and organza. There is a fair amount of material that goes into the seam when it is enclosed. The French seam is, therefore, not suited to heavier fabrics because the seam can become bulky. 

The edges of the seam do not show with a French seam, and this makes it a great seam for sheer fabrics. The French seam is best suited to straight seams.

While not advisable because the French seam is best suited to straight seams, it can be done. Sometimes, a French seam may look best along a curved seam if you want to lose bulk from the seam. This depends on the fabric and the part of the garment to be joined. 

4. Bound Closed Seams

A bias bound seam is finished off with bias tape to neaten and enclose the raw edges. This seam gives a neat finish that solves the problem of raw edges fraying. The bias-bound seam can bind the raw edges of the seam together or separately. Bound seams finish off an unlined jacket very nicely because the bias can be a contrasting fabric adding some detail to the finished garment.

There are 2 ways to sew a bias bound seam:

1. Method #1 – Hong Kong Finish
2. Method #2 – Bias Bound Seams

5. Welt Closed Seams

The welt seam is a very easy flat seam. It is all stitched down, making it seem enclosed, but the raw edges are not exactly closed into the seam. The raw edges have to be neatened before the seam is constructed.

6. Lapped Closed Seams

A lapped seam is just two pieces of fabric that overlap. It makes a very flat seam and cuts down on the bulk of thicker fabrics. It really is as simple as that. You can take the lapped seam a step further and try a turned lap seam.

7. The Run and Fell Seam

The run and fell seam is also known as a flat felled seam. This seam is completed on the right side of the fabric. It is a durable seam and ideal for clothing made of denim. 

Basically, the seam is stitched on the right side of the fabric, and one side of the seam is trimmed away, and the other side overlaps to neaten the seam.  One side is trimmed, and the other folds over the trimmed edge and is topstitched in place. You will see run and fell seams used to sew denim. 

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Closed Seams – In Conclusion

Now that you understand the different types of closed seams, you can choose the best seam finishes for your sewing projects based on fabric type, durability, and garment style. Closed seams create cleaner, stronger garments while adding a professional couture-quality finish to your sewing. Mastering these seam techniques will dramatically improve both the appearance and longevity of handmade clothing.

More Seams

• Open Seams
• Types of Seams
• Seam Finishes
• Grading Seams
• Sewing Machine Stitches
• How to Sew a Seam