How to Sew a Double Fold Hem (Easy Step-by-Step Guide)

How to Sew a Double Fold Hem

A double fold hem is one of the most common and durable hemming methods used in sewing. The raw edge is folded under twice before stitching, completely enclosing the fabric edge and preventing fraying. This creates a neat, professional finish that can withstand regular wear and repeated washing. Double fold hems are commonly used on skirts, dresses, pants, sleeves, home décor projects, and beginner sewing patterns. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew a double fold hem step by step, when to use it, and how it compares to other popular hem finishes.

What is a Double Fold Hem?

A double fold hem is a hem that is folded twice before stitching. Double fold hems are used for woven fabrics rather than stretch fabrics. The width of your hem can vary according to the item you are sewing and your personal preference. These hems are the most commonly used type of hem as the raw edges are tucked inside meaning they can withstand many washes without fraying.

When to Use a Double Fold Hem

A double fold hem is the best choice when you want a durable hem with fully enclosed raw edges. Because the fabric is folded twice, the edge is protected from fraying and can withstand frequent washing and wear.

Double fold hems are commonly used for:

• Dresses
• Skirts
• Pants
• Shorts
• Sleeve hems
• Children’s clothing
• Table linens
• Home décor projects

They work best on woven fabrics such as cotton, linen, chambray, rayon, and lightweight denim. For very thick fabrics, a single fold hem or bias-bound hem may reduce bulk and create a flatter finish.

How to Do a Double Fold Hem (Step by Step)

Here are the instructions for sewing a double fold hem:

1. Turn to the Wrong Side

First, turn your fabric to the wrong side. Hems are always sewn on the wrong side so that all that is visible on the right side is a neat single row of stitches.

2. Work out the Seam Allowance

Work out what is the seam allowance of the hem. This means how much extra fabric is added to the length of the item to allow for the hem. Decide if you want a double fold hem that is comprised of equal folds or unequal.

For example, if your seam allowance at the hem is 2 inches. You could fold the hem twice by 1 inch or fold it once by 1/2 inch and then the second time by 1 1/2 inches. Folding it in equal parts usually results in a stiffer hem.

As a general rule, fold equally for narrow double fold hems and unequally for wider hems.

3. Press the Hem

Pressing Unequally – In this tutorial, I will do a seam allowance of 1 inch (2.5cm) which I will divide into 1/4 inch (6mm) for the first press and 3/4 inch (2cm) for the second press.

3/4 inch (2cm) hems are quite common in women’s clothing on sleeve edges and bottom hems.

• Press your raw edge up by 1/4 inch (6mm) all the way around the hem.
• Press it up again either by a wider amount. I am going to do my second press as 3/4 inch (2cm).

Pressing Equally – Press the hem up by two equal amounts. For example 1/2 inch and 1/2 inch (12mm). Here is the first fold.

This is the second fold. If you are pressing equally you don’t need to measure again since you are folding by the same amount.

4. Stitch the Double Fold Hem

Pin the pressed-up hem first. I like to pin horizontally to hold the hem in place but vertically will work for wider hems. Stitch all the way around the inside of the folded hem on the wrong side. You want to stitch about 1/8 inch (3mm) from the edge.

MACHINE STITCHING – Use an average stitch length of 2.5 and your all-purpose presser foot.

At the beginning and end of your stitching, you can seal the ends by backstitching. This means you go backward about 3 stitches to prevent the stitching from coming undone.

For an almost invisible hem use a matching bobbin color as this is what will show on the outside. The top thread will show on the inside so while it is nice for it to match it is not so important.

HANDSTITCHING A DOUBLE FOLD HEM – A double fold hem can be easily handstitched using a running stitch. This easy up and down stitch is suitable for beginners.

5. Give a Final Press

To finish your hem give it a final press. Even though you pressed previously, this final press really makes a difference and melds the thread into your fabric.

Alternatives to a Double Fold Hem

There are times when a double fold hem is either too bulky or doesn’t suit the item you are sewing.

• Blind hem – Best for wider hens where a truly invisible hem is wanted. The easiest way to do a blind hem is with a special foot that comes with most machines.
• Bias bound hem – Great for thicker fabrics such as wool skirts where the hem edge is too thick to fold double. Sew the bias to the raw edge and then sew the other edge of the bias tape up.
• Round hems – While a double fold hem can be used for circular items, there are other easier ways that result in a better hem. Double fold hems on circular items can give puckering.
• Hand-stitched hem – Hand-stitched hems are not just for times you don’t have a sewing machine. Use them for delicate fabrics or for invisible perfect hems.
• Hemming Tape – This iron-on tape is used for a no-sew hem and is great for alterations and mending.
• Single fold hem – A single fold hem is used on thicker fabrics such as wool where folding twice would be too bulky.

Common Mistakes When Sewing Double Fold Hems

• Making the First Fold Too Wide – A narrow first fold usually creates a smoother, less bulky hem.
• Skipping the Pressing Step – Pressing each fold helps create crisp edges and more accurate stitching.
• Using a Double Fold Hem on Thick Fabrics – Heavy fabrics can become bulky when folded twice. Consider a single fold or bias-bound hem instead.
• Not Measuring the Hem Evenly – Uneven folding can result in a wavy or uneven hemline.
• Sewing Too Far from the Folded Edge – Stitching close to the upper folded edge creates the neatest finish.

Double Fold Hems FAQs

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In Conclusion

So now you know how to do double fold hems, you are well and truly on your way to making great garments. Simply press over your raw edge twice, either evenly or unevenly and stitch across close to the top folded edge.

More Hem Articles

1. GENERAL HEMS – How to Sew a Hem 
2. NARROW HEMS – Sew a Narrow Hem
3. ROLLED HEM FOOT – How to Use a Rolled Hem Foot
4. WIDE HEMS – How to Sew Wide Hems
5. RUFFLED HEMS – Lettuce Hems
6. KNIT FABRIC HEMS – How to Hem Knit Fabric, Catch Stitch
7. KNIT HEMS – Twin Needle
8. SQUARE HEMS – How to Sew Mitered Corners
9. HAND HEMS – Hemming Stitch
10. BIAS – Bias Binding Hems
11. SCALLOPS – Scalloped Edges
12. INVISIBLE HEMS – Blind Hem Stitch