Double Stitched Seam – Best Methods & Tutorial

A double-stitched seam is a strong, durable seam created by sewing two rows of stitching instead of one. This extra row of stitching strengthens the seam and helps prevent fraying, making it ideal for garments, sportswear, stretch fabrics, curtains, and sewing projects that need added durability. Although it takes slightly more sewing time, a double-stitched seam is still beginner-friendly and can be sewn either by machine or by hand. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew a double stitched seam step by step, when to use it, and how it compares to other seam finishes.

What is a Double Stitched Seam

In simple terms, the double stitched seam is a plain seam with an extra row of stitching making a double row of stitching on the wrong side of the fabric. The double stitched seam has many uses. This basic seam is useful for shirts, blouses, jeans, and sportswear needing some extra strength. It is also used to make curtains, sew pockets and hold stretch knits in place.

If you are learning durable sewing techniques, explore the full types of seams guide to understand reinforced and heavy-duty seam constructions.

How to Sew a Double Stitched Seam (Step by Step)

Always try out the tutorial before you start and test the seam on some scraps of fabric. Just sew the two lines of machine stitch on the fabric and see how the strength feels. 

Follow these steps to sew a perfect, double stitched seam:

1. First Seam

Prepare your fabric and match the right sides together and pin the seam in place. If you are a beginner, it may help to mark the seam allowance stitching line for added accuracy.

Sew your first line of stitching on the normal stitching line. 

1. Make sure you have a straight stitch setting on your machine.
2. Test your straight stitch on a scrap of fabric to check your chosen stitch length’s sewing machine tension and suitability.
3. When you start to sew, make a backstitch to start to ensure the stitches do not unravel. 
4. Use the seam markings on the plate of the machine to be sure of accuracy all the way.

2. Second Seam

Sew a second line of stitching about 1/8” to 1/4” (3-6mm) away from the first stitching line. Backstitch this row of stitches as well. This ensures the stitching stays firmly in place.

The extra row is sewn between the first row of stitching and the raw edges of the seam allowance. It serves the very important purpose of preventing fraying of the raw edges and keeping the seam line neat. The double-stitched seam gives some extra strength to finer fabrics.

3. Double Seam Finish

Finish or trim the raw edge and press the seam to the side. For fine fabrics, it is better to leave the raw edges unfinished.

When to Use a Double Stitched Seam

Fine Fabrics – The double-stitched seam is a perfect match for finer fabrics. Organza, chiffon, and voile are soft sheer fabrics that need the minimum amount of sewing. Sewing soft fabrics like these require a seam that does not show extra seam finishing and bulky neatening techniques. 

Clothing Needing Durability – This seam is perfect for full skirts and dresses where you want the least amount of seam to show, but a firm seam to assemble the garment. 

Stretch Fabrics – Another advantage of this simple seam is when it is used on stretch fabrics. The second row of stitching adds stability to the stretch seam. The seam can then be trimmed down because the stretch fabric will not fray. The double stitched seam is a comfortable and strong seam for stretch fabrics if you do not have a serger.

Double-Stitched Seam vs Other Seams

In the ranking of seams, the plain seam is one of the easiest, and first on the list of seams to learn. The plain seam is followed by the double stitched seam with two lines of plain sewing. The double stitched seam should not be confused with the double topstitched seam. This seam has stitching showing on the right side of the fabric. 

Seam Type	Main Difference
Double Stitched Seam	Two rows of stitching reinforce the seam
Plain Seam	Single row of stitching
Flat Felled Seam	Fully enclosed durable seam
French Seam	Enclosed seam for delicate fabrics
Double Topstitched Seam	Visible topstitching on the garment exterior

Alternate Way to Stitch a Double Stitched Seam

This stitch can be replicated using a twin needle to sew a double line of stitching. It is important to mark the seam stitching line accurately to ensure the needle on the stitching line adheres to the straight stitch line.  The twin needle will follow at exactly the right distance from the needle stitching on the stitch line.  Afterward, trim any excess fabric from the seam allowance. 

Hand Stitching the Double Stitched Seam

Try your hand sewing skills on a double stitched seam. If you need to repair something and don’t have a sewing machine, this seam would come in handy. 

Perhaps you are one of those dedicated sewers who love to restore vintage clothing. Sewing the delicate seams of a Victorian dress or a family christening gown, handed down through the ages, requires delicate hand stitching. The double stitched seam will provide all the neat hand stitching required, and there will be no need for heavy machining.

Preparation

Prepare your fabric and mark the seam line very accurately on both sides of the fabric. Pin the two sides with right sides together and place the pins horizontally to allow for easy hand sewing. Thread your needle with the correct thread to match the fabric. If you are restoring vintage fabric, it may need linen thread. 

Before you start to sew it is a good idea to wax the thread to strengthen it and prevent tangles. A little block of beeswax in your sewing kit is ideal for this purpose. Check your needle size compared to the thickness of the fabric, and have a fine needle for thick fabrics.

Backstitch

The hand stitch you will be using is backstitch embroidery because this gives the strongest hand-stitched seam. 

Start at the beginning of the area to be stitched, and secure your thread with a double backstitch. Knot the thread if the fabric is particularly fine. Work your first row of backstitch along the seam line. While you are sewing, check both sides of the fabric to see that you are following the seam line. The front and the back need to match the hand stitch as there are no stitch markings to follow like the ones on a normal sewing machine. 

Marking both sides of the fabric gives you the extra guidelines you need on the front and the back of the fabric.

Second Row

Sew your second line of stitching 1/8” or 1/4” (3-6mm) away from the original stitching line to complete the double stitched seam.

Trim

Trim any unwanted fabric from the seam allowance and press the seam.

Creative Ideas for Using the Double Seam

The double stitched seam is a good option for making dolls clothes and small craft items like potholders and tea cozies that may be difficult to sew by machine. Teach your enthusiastic children to sew some simple items and begin to appreciate sewing and making their own gifts for family and friends.

The double stitched seam can be useful in quilt making, if you do not have a machine at hand and would like the joy of piecing together a quilt. 

The beauty of the double stitched seam is the fact that the extra line of stitching prevents fraying. Using up scraps with quilting in mind means the fabrics may already be worn, and a gentle hand stitched seam would be the answer to sewing delicate scraps together.

Double Stitched Seam FAQs

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Double Stitched Seam – In Conclusion

A double stitched seam is one of the easiest ways to strengthen sewing projects while keeping seams neat and relatively flat. Whether sewn by machine or by hand, this seam adds durability without requiring complicated seam finishes.From delicate fabrics to sportswear and craft projects, double stitched seams are a simple reliable technique every sewer should know. Stitched twice and twice as nice!!

Thanks for reading all about the double stitched seam. Here are some more articles on seams.

• Plain Seams
• Open Seams
• Closed Seams
• Seam Finishes