FABRIC MARKING

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There are lots of methods for fabric marking including using tailor’s tacks and tracing paper and a wheel, but this is the method my Mum taught me and the one I normally use. Transferring markings from your sewing pattern to fabric with chalk and pins requires a minimum of tools and is easy enough for sewers of all levels.

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For fabric marking, you need

Pins
Tailors Chalk or other marking pens or tools.

Marking tools include

Chalk pencils
Tailors chalks (normally rectangles or triangles)
Removeable pens. These pens disappear either with heat, water or time.

You will generally just need one fabric marking tool per project but you may find that different projects and fabrics suit different kinds.

Further Reading: Fabric Marking Tools.

Fabric Marking – Using Pins

Step 1 – Match pattern

Place the paper pattern back on top of your cut fabric piece. Try and match up the edges as closely as possible.

Step 2 – Insert Pin

Stick a pin through the pattern where you need to transfer the mark. In this case, I was marking the point of the dart in a bodice.

Further Reading: How to read sewing pattern symbols

Step 3 – Lift and Mark

Lift up the pattern slightly and mark where the pin goes through. If the pin goes through 2 layers then just lift up the back and mark that too. You can mark the spot either with another pin or chalk pencil. I always prefer to stick a pin in first and then completely remove the paper pattern before marking where the pin’s position. I find this easiest where I have to transfer several marks in the same area.

If you are transferring dart markings, joint the dot to where the dart starts at the edges.

fabric marking darts — Fabric Marking Darts

Fabric Marking with Carbon Paper

Dressmaker’s carbon paper is specially designed for fabric and comes in many colors to suit different fabrics. Yellow is great for darker fabrics, while blue and orange can be used on lighter fabrics. Don’t use regular paper carbon paper as it will mark the fabric and not come off and may even smudge.

Carbon paper is used in conjunction with a tracing wheel to draw the lines.

Place your fabric on the table wrong side up and put the carbon between the fabric and the paper pattern.

Use the tracing wheel to draw over the lines you need to transfer. This is very easy and will result in a line made up of fine dots where the spokes of the wheel have pressed against the carbon.

The carbon will, of course, be smaller than the pattern so shift it along as you trace.

Further Reading: How to Use a Tracing Wheel

Fabric Marking with Basting

Simple up and down running stitch can be used for fabric marking. Use long stitches in a contrast color so you can remove them easily when the item is finished. The advantage of using this method is that there is no danger of you rubbing off the markings.

When the stitches are really large this is a surprisingly quick method. I like to use basting as my fabric marking method for marking pleats and long lines.