Faggoting Stitch Embroidery: Easy Guide to Decorative Seams

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Learn how to sew the faggoting stitch with this beginner-friendly embroidery tutorial. Faggoting stitch is a decorative hand embroidery stitch used to join two pieces of fabric with an open seam. Once popular on Victorian lingerie and heirloom sewing, it is now commonly used on table linens, children’s clothing, and decorative embroidery projects.

Faggoting Stitch Embroidery

How to Do Faggoting Stitch (Quick Guide)

Here’s a quick look at how to create a faggoting stitch:

  1. Hem the edges of both fabric pieces.
  2. Baste the fabric onto a backing with a gap between the edges.
  3. Stitch from right to left using twisted faggoting stitches.
  4. Continue evenly across the gap.
  5. Remove the backing and basting stitches.

What is Faggoting Stitch?

Faggoting stitch embroidery is a handed-down style of stitching from the Victorian era. Faggoting or fagotting or faggoting (you can spell it three ways) took its name from bundles of sticks collected together. It is, in fact, a delicate way of joining pieces of fabric and was once extensively used for ladies’ lingerie.

Faggoting stitch is often used on soft satins and linens to link two pieces of fabric at the hem or to create a decorative seam. It is also a great way to add some interest to table napkins. The stitch is simple, and the method merely requires a piece of paper or scrap fabric and some parallel lines to keep your work evenly spaced.

How to Do Faggoting Stitch (Step by Step)

1. Hem the Edges

Start by hemming the edges of the two pieces of fabric you wish to join. This should be a narrow hem.

2. Attach the Backing Fabric

Once you have prepared your fabric with a narrow hem, tack the fabric to a piece of paper or scrap fabric following two parallel lines about 1/2 inch (12mm) apart using a running stitch. Using a different color can make your embroidery easier as the backing will be easy to identify. I used some fabric scrap and I will refer to this as the backing.

Do not tack right next to the edge of the fabric because you will need a small margin of space to stitch the faggoting stitches between the gap.

Preparation of edges

Helpful Tips:

  • It is worth marking insert points along the edge to guide your needle, especially if you are a beginner at this stitch. This helps keep the stitches evenly spaced and gives the finished seam a more professional appearance.
  • I marked every 1/4 inch (6mm) for a medium-sized faggoting. You may want your intervals much smaller than this for fine work.
  • Remember you are not going to stitch through the backing as it is merely there to guide your stitches and will be removed at the end of stitching.

3. Bring the Needle Up

This is worked from right to left. Bring the needle up at point 1, which is about 1/8 inch (3mm) from the edge.

4. Insert the Needle and Create the Twist

Insert the needle in a stabbing motion towards the gap at point 2. Make sure the needle passes over the top of the thread to create a twist. Notice this is offset from point 1 by about 1/4 inch (6mm).

Step 1 inserting needle into the edge

Here’s how it looks when you have pulled the needle through. Notice the twist in the thread.

Twist the thread

5. Stitch Back Down

Move left for another 1/4 inch and insert the needle into the upper edge with a stab motion again. Bring the needle out into the gap with the thread behind the needle.

Needle goes back down

Here you can see steps 1 to 3 when the needle is pulled through. Notice the twisting between the edges of the fabric.

Blue thread twisted into a v shape

6. Repeat the Faggoting Stitch

Continue in this way as you twist the thread and fill the gap with stitches, only stabbing the edge of the fabric and not stitching into the backing.

Faggoting stitch in progress

7. Remove the Backing

Remove your basting stitches from the backing.

Faggoting stitch removing the basting

All finished and looking delicate and open.

Finished faggoting stitch

What is Faggoting Stitch Used For?

Then bullet list

  • Heirloom sewing
  • Baby clothes
  • Pillowcases
  • Table runners
  • Napkins
  • Lingerie

EMBroidery templates

300

EMBroidery templates

Cats

EMBroidery templates

Letters

Faggoting Stitch Tips

  • Keep Your Stitch Spacing Consistent: Even spacing creates a balanced decorative seam. Marking insertion points before you begin can make a significant difference, especially for beginners. Without guide marks, stitches can quickly become uneven and affect the finished appearance.
  • Use a Contrasting Basting Thread: A contrasting color makes the backing stitches easier to see and remove when the embroidery is complete. This also helps prevent accidentally stitching into the backing fabric, which is only a temporary guide and should be removed easily when finished.
  • Maintain an Even Gap Between the Fabric Edges: The open space between the fabric edges is what gives faggoting stitch its distinctive look. If the gap width changes as you sew, the decorative effect can appear irregular, so take time to baste the fabric carefully before stitching.

FAQs

Is faggoting stitch suitable for beginners?

Yes. Faggoting stitch uses a simple repeating motion and is considered an easy embroidery stitch for beginners.

Can you do faggoting stitch without an embroidery hoop?

Yes. Most faggoting stitch projects are worked without a hoop, although a larger hoop can be helpful for some fabrics.

What fabrics work best for faggoting stitch?

Lightweight linens, cottons, and fine woven fabrics typically produce the best results because the decorative seam remains visible and delicate.

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faggoting stitch, how to do faggoting

In Conclusion

Faggoting stitch is a beautiful decorative embroidery stitch that creates delicate open seams for heirloom sewing and decorative projects. Once you’ve mastered the basic technique, experiment with different thread colors and spacing to create unique decorative joins.

How to do faggoting seams

More Embroidery Stitches:

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Author - Luisa Clare

Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.

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2 Comments

  1. Great idea for a tutorial. Added to my list 🙂 This is the best napkin to add it to. Just a plain napkin with folded edges. Thanks for reading.

  2. This is really neat! I’d love to see some examples on napkins! Is there a tutorial anywhere for actually prepping fabric for napkins to do this?

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