Hemming Stitch: Best Hand Stitches for Hems

Hand hemming stitches are used to sew garment hems neatly by hand while creating either invisible or decorative finishes. Although sewing machines can stitch hems quickly, hand-sewn hems often hang better and create a more professional finish on delicate fabrics, formal garments, and couture sewing projects. In this tutorial, you’ll learn the best hemming stitches for beginners, including slip stitch, blind hem stitch, catch stitch, whip stitch, and rolled hem techniques.

What is Hemming Stitch?

A hemming stitch is a hand sewing stitch used to secure folded fabric edges neatly in place. Hemming stitches can be nearly invisible or decorative, depending on the stitch style, and are commonly used on dresses, skirts, pants, curtains, and lightweight fabrics. Different hemming stitches are suited to different fabrics and sewing projects. Some create stretch for knit fabrics, while others produce fine invisible finishes for formal garments.

Learn more beginner hand sewing techniques in the complete hand stitching guide. Read about all the best types of hems for your fabric in the complete how to sew a hem guide.

How to Hand Stitch a Hem (Step by Step)

Here is how to hand stitch a hem:

1. Hang the garment overnight to give the hem a chance to ‘drop’ before sewing. This is especially important for a bias cut hem.
2. Mark your hem with a sewing gauge or tape measure to ensure the finished hem is even all the way around the garment.
3. Measure from the floor to the hem to check that the hemline is straight and level. The hem will look straighter when it is parallel to the floor.
4. Press the raw edge up by around 1/4 inch (6mm), then fold the hem again to the desired width. Press well with an iron to create crisp folds before sewing.
5. Pin or clip the hem in place to stop the fabric from shifting while you sew.
6. Thread a hand sewing needle with matching thread. Try to sew with a single thread, as a thinner thread creates less visible hemming stitches. I used a double thread in my sample photos so the stitches would show clearly.
7. Keep an eye on the width of the hem. A rolled hem should stay very narrow, while wider hems can help skirts and dresses hang smoothly.
8. Sew your chosen hemming stitch evenly around the garment, taking small stitches for the neatest finish. Avoid pulling the thread too tightly, as this can cause puckering.
9. Press the hem lightly once finished to smooth the stitches and help the hem hang neatly.

Best Hand Stitches for Hems

Here are 7 types of hemming stitches:

1. Catch Stitch
2. Blind Hem Stitch
3. Slip Stitch
4. Felled Stitch
5. Whip Stitch
6. Hand Rolled
7. Running Stitch

My photos include a shot of the front and back of the hem so you can make the best decision on the hand sewing hem style that you prefer.

The hem of a garment is a very important part of the finished product. There is a wide range of hemming stitches to complement the finish of a dress, blouse, or pair of pants. Hems can be decorative or almost invisible, but the best are sewn by hand.  You can read more in my article on how to sew a hem. The stitches listed below will give your
handiwork the perfect finishing touch.

In all my samples, I have used contrasting red stitching. For invisible stitching, use a matching color thread.

All of these hemming stitch options are easy, but if you have never sewn a hem before, then go straight to the easiest, which is the running stitch.

1. Catch Hemming Stitch

The catch stitch is a good choice for a hemming stitch on knits because it has a certain amount of elasticity and stretch. The cross-over of the stitch adds strength and durability. 

DIRECTION – Work from left to right.

• Step 1 – Anchor your thread in the fold and have the needle pointing to the left. Pick up a small piece of fabric on the wrong side of the garment.  Work just above the hem. Make your stitch very small because it will be seen on the outside.
• Step 2 – Pull up your thread and move the needle and thread to the right 1/4” -1/2″ (6-12mm) distance and catch a little piece of the hem with the needle facing left.
• Step 3 – Continue in this way and as you work you will see the thread crossing over to make the next stitch. Remember to use cotton as close in color to the fabric because a small ‘catch’ stitch will be seen on the right side of the garment.

2. Blind Hemming Stitch

The blind hemming stitch is a very professional way to create a hem on pants. It is also known as an invisible hand stitch hem. Here is how to do a blind stitch by hand:

• Step 1 – Measure and fold a double hem to suit the required length of your garment. These types are usually wider so I did 2 folds of 1 inch (2.5cm).
• Then fold the folded hem back to the right side of the garment and leave about 1/8” (3mm) showing over the top of the folded fabric. This is the fold of the hem you will be working in.
• Step 2 – Anchor your thread in the hem and start to work from right to left. With your needle, catch a small piece of the fabric in the folded edge of the garment. This is to be next to but not inside the hem. This small stitch will be visible on the right side when complete.  Check to be sure you only pick up one layer of fabric to make this small stitch.
• Step 3 – Move the needle about 1/2” (12mm) to the left and pick up a small stitch in the hem of the garment. The threads will be concealed in the fold. Continue in this way to the end.
• Step 4 – Fold the hem down again and press on top. The only thing visible will be the small amount of fabric caught up in the thread on the right side.

The alternative to using a hand blind stitch is to use the blind hem foot on your sewing machine.

3. Slip Hemming Stitch

The slip hemming stitch looks good on both sides of the garment and is a commonly used stitch.

Here is how to hand stitch a hem with the slip stitch.

• Step 1 – Prepare a double fold hem. The size will depend on your personal choice for the finished length. This stitch works equally well on a wide or narrow hem. Start to stitch on the upper fold, working from right to left.
• Step 2 – Insert the needle into the main fabric. Make sure you keep the stitch level with the fold. The tiny stitch you make will be visible on the right side. Pull up your threads to make the stitches taut but not puckered as you sew.
• Step 3 – Insert the needle into the fold and pass the needle along inside the fold. Pass the needle and thread along the fold for a short distance. Pull the needle out to the fabric side under the fold of the hem. 
• Step 4 – Pick up another small dot of fabric from the garment. Continue in this way for the length of the hem. End off in the hem fold at the end.

It is important to measure the space between the amount of fabric taken in the fold and the amount taken in the small dot to make sure the stitches are evenly spaced. Mark with a removable pen if this makes it easier to keep an equal distance.

4. Felled Hemming Stitch

The felled hemming stitch shows on the outside of the fabric. This stitch copes well with bulkier fabrics as it can be hidden in the pile of a thicker fabric.  If the garment is to be lined the lining shields the long stitches from view.

• Step 1 – Prepare the hem and anchor the thread on the wrong side to begin working from right to left.
• Step 2 – Make a stitch from the folded edge to run through the fabric for about 1/4” – 1/2” (6-12mm) into the fabric. Come out again at the folded edge.  Make a small stitch into the hem and then repeat the stitch that goes through the fabric and returns through at the fold.
• Step 3 – Continue this way and a series of slightly slanted stitches are formed on the right side of the work and the smaller anchor stitch appears on the folded edge. The longer outside stitch will be concealed in the lining if a lining is used.

5. Hemming by Hand with Whip Stitch

Whipstitch is a simple stitch for hems that need more control. The stitches are smaller and closer together and you will see small long stitches on the outside.

• Step 1: Prepare the hem by pressing it over twice.
• Step 2: Place the needle in the main fabric and bring it up at an angle through the fold.
• Step 3: Repeat keeping the stitches even.

6. Hand Rolled Hem Stitch

The hand-rolled hem is ideal for finishing sheer fabrics or very lightweight materials.  It does not work well with thicker fabrics.  Use with soft linens, silks, and cotton.

• Step 1 – Prepare the hem by creasing one fold along the hem edge with your thumb or finger. Make a narrow fold close to the edge to keep any bulk away from the hem.
• Step 2 – You will be working the hem in small stages from right to left. Secure the thread with a few back stitches. It is best not to use a knot with fine fabric as it may show and spoil the delicate look of the hem.
• Step 3 – Start the hemming by hand by making a small slanted stitch into the fabric just above the hem. Then slant into the hem and take another stitch. Repeat this without pulling the threads and working between the edge and the fabric. (See in the photo below how the needle makes a small down and up stitch first through the fabric and then at the edge of the hem. )
• Step 4 – After you have completed 3 or 4 stitches pull the thread gently but not too tight. This will make the hem roll in gently as it encloses the raw edges. Repeat.

7. Running Stitch Hems

Running stitch a fast and easy hem stitch by hand. It is ideal for beginners.

• Step 1 – Prepare your hem to the required width.  Press and pin in place.
• Step 2 -Thread your needle with matching or contrast thread.  The running stitch can be decorative as well as just utilitarian.
• Step 3 – Knot your thread and start with a slip stitch in the fold.  Continue to sew with simple running stitches following the fold.  Choose the length of the running stitch to suit the purpose of the garment.

Decorative Hem Stitch by Hand

There are many decorative hand hemming stitch suggestions. Depending on the decoration, hems can be embroidered, scalloped, or even tasseled. Blanket stitch is often used to attach a crochet edge or create a scalloped edge. Beaded, braided, and fringed – there are many options for the simple hand sewn hem.

Hemming Stitch FAQs

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Hemming Stitch – In Conclusion

Hand hemming stitches create beautiful professional finishes for garments, curtains, and sewing projects where invisible or decorative hems are needed. While machine stitching is faster, hand-sewn hems often produce softer cleaner finishes, especially on delicate fabrics and formal clothing.

Once you learn basic hemming stitches such as slip stitch, blind hem stitch, and catch stitch, you can confidently sew professional-looking hems by hand.

More Hem Articles

1. GENERAL HEMS – How to Sew a Hem 
2. NARROW HEMS – Sew a Narrow Hem
3. ROLLED HEM FOOT – How to Use a Rolled Hem Foot
4. WIDE HEMS – How to Sew Wide Hems
5. CIRCULAR HEMS – How to Sew Round Hems
6. BLIND HEMS – How to Sew a Blind Hem