How to Do Herringbone Stitch (Step by Step for Beginners)

Learn how to do herringbone stitch with this simple beginner-friendly tutorial. Herringbone stitch is a decorative embroidery stitch made from crossed diagonal stitches, creating a textured, woven pattern that is perfect for borders and filling areas. As the name suggests, it looks like a row of interlaced fish bones. 

What is Herringbone Stitch Embroidery?

Herringbone stitch is an embroidery stitch made of crossed diagonal stitches worked between two parallel lines. It creates a decorative, interlaced pattern that resembles fish bones.

This stitch is commonly used alongside others—see all basic embroidery stitches.

This useful stitch is worth knowing for its versatile nature and the easy way it fills space on any piece of embroidery. Embroidery herringbone stitch is found in some quilting circles as part of ‘crazy quilting’ because it is an effective way to decorate the seams in quilts. It looks especially nice along the hems and bodices of children’s clothing. Follow these easy steps, and when you feel confident, try some variations.

How to Do Herringbone Stitch (Step by Step)

1. Draw Guides

If you are following a border, it is wise to draw two parallel lines to guide you. As you get more proficient, you can skip adding the guidelines. Herringbone stitch is best done on straight rows or rows with the gentlest of curves. It is not suitable for sharply curved lines.

Due to the open nature of the top and bottom of this stitch, your markings will show. For practice, it is ok to use a lead pencil, but you will want to switch to a removable pen or tailor’s chalk for your final product. If you use a removable pen, make sure you test it first to ensure all traces will be gone.

2. First Herringbone Cross

Bring your thread up from the underside of the fabric on the right of the top line at point (1). Insert the needle again at point (2) and out again a short distance away at point (3). Note that (3) is to the right of (2) and on the diagonal.

You will continually be working this stitch from left to right. This will form the little cross at the bottom of each stitch.

Here is how it looks once the needle is pulled through for the first stitch.

3. Continue the Pattern on Top of the Cross

Then insert the needle in the top row into point (4) and out at point (5). Notice the direction of the needle – left to right.

On a scrap piece of fabric, experiment with the distance between 4 and 5. You will see that a smaller distance makes the herringbone stitch look more like lacing, while a larger distance makes it look more like larger crosses.

4. Repeat More Herringbone Stitches

Continue making the stitches following these three easy steps and the five points of the pattern.

Here is a completed herringbone stitch. The trick is to not overthink the stitch. If you concentrate on pointing and inserting your needle from left to right along the parallel lines you will find you will get the hang of it in no time.

Remember – The needle should insert left to right

Herringbone Embroidery Variations

Herringbone stitch is great for borders or edging, and because it is so simple, it has many interesting variations. Simply by changing the size of the stitches, you can change the look of the pattern.

Adjusting Gaps Between Herringbone Stitches

Creating rows with little or no gap at the top and bottom creates a solid-looking stitch, which is great for filling large areas. Alternate your thread colors, or keep it all the same for a more solid look. Here is a single herringbone stitch with gaps between each row.

Double Herringbone Stitch

Double is comprised of 2 overlaying rows of single herringbone stitch. Normally done in two contrasting colors, it creates a denser, interlaced stitch that is useful for filling and borders. By adding another thread to weave, you can create another dimension. This is a simple additional herringbone row placed along the row. It looks especially attractive when you use two contrasting thread colors.

1. Follow the directions for single along the border , and complete the first row.
2. Make your stitches a little wider than you normally would to allow for the second color to be added.
3. When learning, it is easiest to mark two parallel lines to work between.
4. Try to keep the angle of the stitches regular to give a nice uniform look.
5. Varying the height or width will give a completely different look.
6. Change your thread to another color which is a contrast or a shade of the original color. Start another row just next to the first using the same technique as above.
7. Follow the original stitching, but pass your thread either over or under the original threads. When you are beginning it is easiest to stitch on top of the original row. Keep stitching into the fabric at the top and bottom of the row of stitches.

Alternatives to Herringbone Stitch

A simpler alternative to the herringbone is a cross stitch. It uses a similar motion but results in a single cross. You can use these 2 stitches in conjunction to create exciting and unique borders.

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Herringbone Stitch FAQs

In Conclusion

earning how to do herringbone stitch is a simple way to add texture and interest to your embroidery projects. This beginner-friendly stitch is ideal for borders, seams, and filling areas, and can be easily adapted with different spacing and thread choices. Once you master herringbone stitch, you can combine it with other basic embroidery stitches to create more detailed and decorative designs.

Here are more embroidery stitches to learn:

1. Lazy Daisy
2. Running Stitch
3. Sashiko Embroidery
4. Satin Stitch
5. Seed Stitch Embroidery (Rice Stitch)
6. Stem Stitch
7. Straight Stitch
8. Web Stitch | Embroidery Tutorial
9. Whip Stitch