Hong Kong Seam Finish for Beginners

A Hong Kong seam finish is one of the most professional ways to finish raw seam edges inside unlined garments. This couture sewing technique uses bias binding to neatly encase seam allowances while adding a decorative touch to jackets, skirts, trousers, and tailored garments. Unlike serged or zig-zagged seams, a Hong Kong finish creates a lightweight, clean interior without adding excessive bulk. It is especially popular in unlined jackets because the colorful bound seams become a beautiful design feature inside the garment.

In this tutorial, you’ll learn exactly how to sew a Hong Kong seam finish step by step, including the best fabrics, bias tape tips, and common mistakes to avoid.

What is a Hong Kong Seam?

A Hong Kong seam (also called a Hong Kong finish) is a method of finishing the raw edges of a sew using bias strip. The bias strips encase the edges giving a colorful and professional finish that won’t fray. Hong Kong seam finishes are often used in unlined jackets. In addition to saving money and time in sewing the lining, they can often add a pop of color, resulting in a lighter jacket.

If you are learning couture sewing techniques, explore the full types of seams guide to understand decorative and professional seam finishes.

Hong Kong Seam Finish (Step by Step)

Supplies

• Bias Tape – Make your own or use store bought bias.
• Sewing Basics – Sewing machine, thread, scissors, needle.

Cut your own bias binding strips in a contrast fabric of your choice. Measure the seams’ length and cut the strips to the length you need, as joins will not look as attractive when the seams are exposed. You also want to avoid too much bulk. 

The width of the bias you cut should be 1 to 1.5 inch (2.5-4cm). I generally like to use 1-inch bias as I can use shop-bought 1/2 inch (12mm) single-fold bias and just press it open.

Here is the step-by-step method to use this neat, but fashionable seam finish.  You will need bias binding and can make your own in contrasting colors or use store-bought binding in a plain color to blend in with the seams.

1. Sew the Hong Kong Seam

Stitch the seam and press the seam allowances open or to the side.

The seam you are encasing can be pressed open or closed so that the bias will either cover double fabric or two sides of single fabric in the seam. This will depend on the effect you would like and the bulk of the fabric. 

Thicker fabrics look better pressed open and bound on each side, and less bulky fabrics can be bound together and pressed one way. In this tutorial, I will show you how to bind the individual edges of the seam.

2. First Side of Kong Kong Binding

Place the right side of the bias against one side of the seam and sew a ¼ inch (6mm) seam. Do not stretch the bias as you sew; this will cause the seam edge to go out of shape.

3. Pressing Hong Kong Seams

Press the bias open and then wrap it around the seam edge and bring the rest of the bias to the back as you encase the seam edge. Press gently.

Below I have lifted up the back so you can see how it is wrapped around the edge to the back.

From the top, stitch in the furrow as close as possible to the edge of the bias. I used a contrast stitch so you could see what I was doing, but for best results, use a matching thread for an invisible finish.

This is called stitch in the ditch, and if done correctly the stitches made will disappear into the ditch of the seam and not be visible on the front side of the seam. You can use an edge stitch or zipper foot for this process.

4. Turn and Trim

Turn the seam over and trim off any waste fabric at the back. The back of the seam is not visible when the garment is finished. Press the Hong Kong finish open or to the side, depending on your choice of seam. Here, I bound both sides for an attractive look.

Hong Kong Seam Finish Alternatives

The beauty of the Hong Kong finish is that the stitching is hidden in the seam’s crease. However, there is an alternative method of creating a bias-bound seam. Further Reading: Bias Bound Seam

Other alternatives to a Hong Kong finish include serging, zig-zagging, and even using pinking shears. All of these methods finish the seams and prevent them from fraying excessively. Read more about seam finishes.

Hong Kong Finish vs Bias Bound Seam

Both methods use bias tape, but they differ slightly.

Seam Finish	Main Difference
Hong Kong Finish	Bias is trimmed on the back to reduce bulk
Bias Bound Seam	Bias fully wraps around seam allowance
Serged Seam	Uses overlocker instead of bias
Pinked Seams	Raw edges trimmed with pinking shears
French Seam	Raw edges enclosed inside the seam itself

Common Hong Kong Seam Finish Mistakes and Tips

Common Mistake	Tip for Better Results
Stretching the bias tape distorts the seam edge.	Sew bias gently without pulling.
Heavy bias tape creates bulky seams.	Use lightweight cotton bias binding.
Uneven folding makes the seam look messy.	Press carefully before stitching.
Visible stitching spoils the clean finish.	Stitch carefully in the ditch using matching thread.
Thick fabrics become bulky when seam allowances overlap.	Press seam allowances open individually.
Joined bias strips create bulky areas.	Use continuous strips where possible.
Skipping pressing leads to uneven edges.	Press after every step for crisp results.
Contrasting thread may distract from the finish.	Use matching thread for invisible stitching.

Hong Kong Seam Finish FAQs

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Hong Kong Seam – In Conclusion

The Hong Kong seam finish offers great finesse for an unlined jacket. Although it is a little bit of extra work, it is a really gorgeous way to be creative with a tailored jacket or even a casual windcheater. In fact, the outcome may surprise you with its interesting contrasts. Who knows, you may want to turn the world upside down and wear your jacket inside out just to show off your very original Hong Kong seam finish.

More Articles On Bias Tape

1. How to Make Bias Tape
2. How to Sew Bias Tape
3. How to Make Continuous Bias Tape
4. How to Sew Corners with Bias Tape
5. Bias Bound Seam
6. How to Sew a V Neck with Bias Tape