How to Sew Hook and Eye, 4 Easy Steps for Beginners

Learning how to sew a hook and eye is one of the simplest ways to create a neat, professional garment closure. These small but powerful fasteners are widely used on waistbands, necklines, dresses, lingerie, trousers, and tops. In this step-by-step guide, you’ll learn exactly how to attach a hook and eye by hand, with tips for durability and a couture-quality finish.

What is a Hook and Eye Fastener?

A hook and eye closure is a small metal or plastic fastening made up of a curved hook and a matching loop called the eye. When joined, they create a strong closure that is often placed at the top of zippers or inside clothing openings. Hooks and eyes are easily available in sewing shops and supermarkets. They come in different sizes and colors and meet the demands of closures on waistbands, necklines, dresses and lingerie, collars, trousers, and tops.

Explore the full guide of clothing fasteners that beginners can use on their sewing projects.

Types of Hook and Eye Closures

Here is what a packet of hooks and eyes looks like. They are usually metal and come in silver, black, or white. Colored ones are unusual to find; however, you can buy clear plastic. For most clothing, you will use smaller sizes. Sometimes the eye part can look like a metal bar rather than the curved shape shown below.

Find the right hook-and-eye sewing set and choose one based on the required strength and size. There are three basic styles:

• Wire hook and eye – Lightweight, flexible, ideal for delicate fabrics
• Metal hook and eye – Stronger, suitable for waistbands and fitted garments
• Plastic hook and eye – Rare and less durable

How to Sew Hook and Eye (Step-by-Step)

Here you will learn how to sew a hook and eye in just 4 easy steps!

1. Thread the Needle

Prepare your thread. A double thread is needed to sew firmly, and in some instances, you could wax the thread to prevent tangles and give it a stronger hold. Read How to Thread a Needle if you are an absolute beginner.

2. Mark the Hook and Eye Position

Mark the position of the hook and eye on the underside of the fabric. At this point, it is a good idea to decide how the opening will finish. Will it need to close the opening at the edges or overlap?

3. Stitch the Hook Side

When sewing the hook and eyes, make a tiny double stitch to secure your thread and hold the hook over the stitch.

HOOK AND EYE TIP: If you are sewing small hooks and eyes that are moving around as you sew, temporarily secure them in place with a bit of sticky tape.

Place the hook on the wrong side of the garment about 1/8 inch (3mm) from the edge.

Stitch firmly on the inside of the hook near the curved hook part. Stitch around the hole with either blanket stitch or straight stitch, depending on the standard of finish you are aiming for. Blanket stitch sewing does look nicer, but takes longer.

When you have secured the top part of the hook, run your thread to the back and bring the needle out at the next hole. Knit off at the back when you are finished, and remove the sticky tape.

After sewing hundreds of hook and eye closures, I’ve found that reinforcing the first stitches makes a big difference to the durability.

4. Sew the Eye Side

Now you are ready to place the eye in position. Sew it using the same method as the hook.

Sewing Loops for Hook and Eyes

If you want to make a statement in the finish of your garment, then a bit of extra work and a few blanket stitches or a buttonhole stitch will go a long way to making the handmade eyelet look like classic couture. 

If you don’t have time for the couture touch, sewing a few straight stitches in the right place will do the trick and only take you a few minutes.

This is a good option if you want something really soft and neat rather than the eye part, which is made of metal.

1. Secure your knotted thread in the place where the metal eye would have been positioned.
2. Make about four loops of thread, all the same size and in the same place. They should be less than ¼ inch (6mm) long.
3. Use this bar of thread as the base to then sew blanket stitch along the loop.

Hook and Eye Sewing Alternatives

Which alternatives you can use depends on whether the closure overlaps. For overlapping closures, you can use snaps, buttons, and even velcro.

If the fabric does not overlap, then the only real alternative to sewing hook and eyes is to use a zipper. You will still need some seam allowances to insert it through.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

These are 3 main mistakes people make when sewing hooks and eyes, but they are easy to fix.

• Misalignment – Always make sure you align both sides before sewing. Use chalk and double-check before sewing the eye.
• Single thread – A single thread is not strong enough. Switch to a double thread and resew the hook and eye.
• Weak knots – If your knots aren’t strong, the stitching will come undone. Always do at least 2 knots.

Hook and Eye FAQs

In Conclusion

Hook and eye closures are a timeless substitute for buttonholes and buttons. They are still used frequently at the top of dresses, blouses, skirts, and pants, as well as corsets.

Further Reading:

• Alternatives to Buttonholes
• How to Sew a Zipper
• How to Sew a Button
• Clothes Fastenings