What is Applique & How to Applique Correctly for Beginners

Applique opens up a whole new world of decorating your sewing projects. You can use it on kid's clothing, quilts, handbags, and clutches. The sewing applique can be a picture or a simple monogram letter and can be done on your machine or by hand. The possibilities are endless when you learn how to applique.

Applique Sewing Tutorial

This tutorial will show you how to applique fabric both with a sewing machine and by hand.

What is Applique?

Applique is a sewing method of creating pictures or shapes by sewing one layer of fabric on top of another. It can also be totally abstract, geometric or realistic. The fabric on top can be hand sewn or machine sewn. Applique is used for all types of sewing and quilting projects.

What is Applique Used For?

Applique is used on quilting, clothing, home decor, pillows, bags, and more. Appliqué projects can transform just about any fabric item you can think of. Make something plain and boring into an interesting, unique item.

Applique Supplies

What you will need to applique:

1. Fabric - Main base fabric item and fabric scraps for the applique.
2. Double-Sided Interfacing (Iron-on applique paper)
3. Marker
4. Applique Template – Your applique designs can be something you have printed or even a hand-drawn shape on a paper template
5. Sewing Basics - Sewing machine, iron, ironing board, pins, thread, needle.

1. Best Types of Applique Fabrics

You can applique any kind of fabric, including cotton fabric, felt, and even leather. I like the weight of quilting cotton as it is stable under the sewing machine foot and has a medium thickness.

Tighter weaves are less likely to fray and have loose threads poking out of the edge. Slippery or thin fabrics can be hard work, so save those for another project.

2. Double-Sided Interfacing for Applique

Double-sided interfacing or stabilizers is a very thin web-like fabric with waxed paper on one side. The paper on one side allows you to iron it on the fabric before it is peeled off. It is generally much more expensive than regular interfacing, so use it wisely and keep all cut-offs for small applique pieces. The interfacing should be lightweight.

The alternative to using double-sided interfacing is fusible adhesives or spray adhesive. Make sure any glue dries clear and does not make the fabric stiff.

3. Applique Markers

You will be drawing on the paper side of the interfacing and not directly on the fabric, so it doesn't matter what kind of marker or pen you use. Just don't use something that smudges in case it gets on the fabric side.

4. Applique Templates

Cut out your applique template from regular paper. There are lots of flower and animal templates online that you can print. If you can draw freehand, then all the better. Templates should not have too much detail as small curves and corners are not easy to applique around.

Start with simple shapes such as circles and squares when you are learning applique.

How to Applique - Video Tutorial

Here is a video I made for you on how to applique. It includes some close-up footage of the stitching that many of you will find useful. Subscribe to the Treasurie YouTube channel for weekly sewing and craft videos.

Beginners Guide to How to Applique - Step by Step Instructions

Here is the traditional method of sewing applique.

Step 1 - Fuse Interfacing

Rough cut your fabric around the pattern piece. Cut out the fusible interfacing to match. It is easier to work with small pieces.

Press one side of the appliqué interfacing to the WRONG side of the fabric according to the manufacturer’s directions. Make sure the paper is placed glue-side down. It normally feels rougher. If your fabric has any synthetic fibers, make sure you use a press cloth.

Draw around the pattern on the paper backing side of the interfacing.

Special Note for One Directional Templates: If you have a design that needs to face one direction, flip the template over to draw it on the back of the fabric. For example, I wanted the dog to face to the left in the final project, so I flipped it over to face the right to draw around.

Step 2 - Cut out the Shapes and Place

Cut the appliqué piece out with sharp scissors. You don't want any burred edges. The interfacing makes the fabric really crisp and easy to cut accurately.

Step 3 - Peel and Press

Peel off the backing from the fusible appliqué interfacing. It can be a little hard to start off, so persevere. I find it easiest to make a small tear in the edge just to get started so you have something to grab onto.

Place the piece in its desired position on the background fabric and fuse it by pressing as per the manufacturer’s directions. For cotton you will generally use a hot iron. Both the fabric and applique should be right sides up.

Step 4 - Raw Edge Appliqué Sewing

Now your fabric is all in place and fused, it is time to start sewing your applique shapes. Sewing the applique edges can be done by machine or hand. It is done on the right side of the fabric.

Machine sewing with a zig zag will result in the strongest result and will withstand multiple washes. Here are some examples of machine applique done on some of my sewing patterns.

Hand sewing can be relaxing and a great option if you don't have a machine.

How to Applique by Machine

Before you start learning how to sew an applique, make sure you have the following

• All purpose or zig-zag foot
• A strong thread that is of good quality
• Matching bobbin thread and top thread
• Regular sewing machine

Stitches for Machine Applique

I generally use a fairly tight zig-zag stitch with a width of 5.0 and a length of 0.5-1.0. You can adjust it to your preference. If you have a fabric that frays a lot, you will be better with a short zigzag stitch length.

I have done all my stitching with black thread so you can see the detail, but yours will look so much better with a matching thread. I sampled a few different stitch lengths and decided I liked the W5 L0.5 best. See how the stitch goes over the cut edges of the fabric.

While zig-zag is the most commonly used applique stitch, you can experiment with some of the special stitches on your machine.

Sewing Machine Applique

1. Starting - Without backstitching, stitch around the edge with a zig-zag or satin stitch. Always keep your hands close to your work so you can maneuver any curves easily. GO SLOW!
2. Finishing – Once you get back to where you started, finish without backstitching. Remove your work and pull the threads to the back. Knot the ends. Turn it over, and you’re done. A final press will remove any of the wrinkles put in when sewing.

How to Applique Points on a Machine

Slowly stitch up to the point and stop with the needle in the down position. It should be on the outside of the fabric. Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric in the new direction. Lower the foot and start sewing again.

How to Applique Sharp Curves

If you have a tight curve to sew, you can use a pivoting motion. Sew a few stitches and stop with the needle down and on the outside of the fabric. Lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric slightly to realign the edge. Keep sewing a little at a time, then pivoting and starting again.

How to Applique by Hand

Sewing applique by hand gives a lovely homemade look and can be a relaxing pastime. Before you start hand stitching, switch to a sharp hand needle. The fusible interfacing stiffens the fabric and makes it harder to pierce with an embroidery needle.

Even if you use a hand stitch, the double-sided interfacing is surprisingly durable as a method of stopping the edges from fraying. I found that with careful handwashing, hand-stitched applique lasts quite well.

Here I have used a blanket stitch, running stitch, and backstitch. You can also use whipstitch, but I have included it in the felt applique section below since it doesn't look as neat on fabric.

Basic Hand Applique with Running Stitch

The heart on the right of the photo above was done with a running stitch. It is a simple up-and-down stitch that can be long or short in length. I used 6 strands of embroidery floss with stitches that were about ⅛ inch (3mm) long.

Applique with Blanket Stitch

A blanket stitch was used on the heart on the left. The advantage of this stitch for fabric shapes is that it seals the edge with a line of thread which can reduce fraying. Remember to always point the needle outwards toward the edge of the applique.

Applique with Backstitch

I used a backstitch for the dog applique. Because it had so many points and curves, it would have been impossible to use the blanket stitch. Running stitch would have worked on it as well as the backstitch.

Backstitch results in a solid-looking stitch ling and is durable and attractive. I used 3 strands of embroidery floss so the line would not be too chunky.

More Appliqué Techniques

Here are some more applique tutorials.

1. Reverse Applique

Reverse applique technique has the foreground fabric cut out and your colored applique piece placed behind. It can add a nice texture to thicker fabrics. When I see this effect on clothing in shops, it tends to be done with a hand stitch.

1. Cut a piece of backing fabric and double-sided interfacing about 1 inch (2.5cm) larger than your template
2. Press the double-sided interfacing on the WRONG side of the foreground fabric
3. Draw around your template on the back of the paper
4. Cut out the middle of the shape. This is easiest if you make a small fold and snip in the center, then cut outwards.
5. Peel off the paper and press the backing fabric on top.
6. Stitch around the raw edge of the foreground fabric. This can be machine or hand stitching.

In my reverse applique article, you will find a couple of more techniques, including a turned edge and a quick method for stretch fabric. These samples were done with a reverse applique with hand stitching.

2. How to Applique with Felt

Felt is a wonderful fabric to applique as the edges do not fray. Washable craft and sewing felt are cheap to purchase and are one of my favorite things to sew on children's clothing.

The little red riding hood in the photo above comes with the Masie cape pattern and can be done with a machine straight stitch. The pincushion is from my free felt pincushion pattern, and the applique can be done with running stitches or whip stitches. Freezer paper is useful for cutting felt applique accurately.

Tips for Felt Applique by Machine

• NEEDLES - Use a medium needle
• FOOT - All-purpose sewing foot or a Teflon foot
• THREAD - Use a strong thread as cheaper threads tend to break
• STITCH LENGTH - Try 2.0 for straight stitch as shorter stitches tend to look better.
• STITCH TYPE - While a straight stitch is normally used, you can use a zig-zag stitch if you like the look of that better.

Tips for Felt Applique by Hand

Sewing felt by hand is much like sewing fabric applique, and many of the same stitches can be used. Unless you like the look of it, there is no need to do a blanket stitch that seals the edges since the felt does not fray.

Great stitches for applique on felt include

• Running Stitch (simple up and down stitch)
• Whip Stitch (an over and over stitch)
• Blanket Stitch
• Backstitch

3. How to Applique Leather

I love applique with vinyl and leather. It adds a unique style to clutches and purses and is easy to sew on your regular machine with a few modifications.

Hold the applique pieces in place with some double-sided tape being careful not to place any under the seam allowance where you will be sewing.

• NEEDLES - Use a leather needle
• FOOT - Teflon foot or walking foot
• THREAD - Use a strong thread as cheaper threads tend to break
• STITCH LENGTH - Try 2.0-3.0 for straight stitch as shorter stitches tend to look better.
• STITCH TYPE - While a straight stitch is normally used, you can use a zig-zag stitch if you like the look of that better.

4. How to Applique Letters

Applique letters and monograms are no different from other applique methods. Choose the method according to the fabric you are sewing and whether you prefer hand or machine stitching.

The easiest way to get letter templates is to print them in a word processing program. Play around with fonts and choose a thick font with simple clean lines.

You can hand stitch or machine stitch around the edges. Don't forget that for letters like E which face one direction, you will need to flip the template over when you draw on the paper interface backing. That way, when it is the right way up, the letter will face the correct direction.

Further Reading - Embroidery Letters (This is a method that will give you finer letters with hand stitching)

How to Applique - in Conclusion

Thanks for reading all about how to applique. This decorative technique can be fun and colorful and make all your clothing and decor truly unique.

More Decorative Ideas

• Pintucks
• How to Embroider
• Ruching
• How to Pleat
• Scalloped Hems
• Sewing Ric-Rac
• Reverse Applique
• Fabric Manipulation