Gathering Knit Fabric with Elastic (Step-by-Step Guide)

Learning how to gather knit fabric using elastic is a useful technique that is often used for stretch knit and Lycra fabrics. Gathering with elastic for ruffles and skirts means they maintain their stretch which is important for stretch knit clothing. This method also works well for woven fabrics where you need to create gentle gathers. Gathering with clear elastic is so easy that you may not go back to traditional gathering methods once you have tried this even once! Before gathering with elastic, it helps to understand how to gather fabric properly with traditional methods.

Why Use Elastic to Gather Knit Fabric?

Using elastic allows the fabric to retain its stretch, making it ideal for garments like skirts, sleeves, and waistlines that need flexibility. Read my full guide if you are new to sewing elastic.

If you used traditional gathering on a knit fabric skirt, you would find that the seam would not stretch, and so it would be hard to get on. Knit garments usually have no zippers, buttons, or openings, so need to stretch to get over the head. Using clear elastic to gather means the waist will stretch for you to get it on, and no stitches will pop.

💡This is just one method—see my complete guide on how to gather fabric for all techniques.

Clear elastic is used to gather knit fabric since it is softer and less bulky than regular woven or braided elastic. If you do need to substitute regular elastic, make sure it is really soft and stretchy. Here I will show you how I gathered this skirt’s bottom.Let’s start learning how to gather with clear elastic.

Elastic Gathering vs Traditional Gathering

Here is a table comparing the 2 gathering methods.

Method	Stretch	Best For
Elastic gathering	Yes	Knit fabrics
Thread gathering	No	Woven fabrics

How to Gather Knit Fabric with Elastic (Step by By Step)

Supplies

• 1/4 inch (6mm) wide clear elastic. (3/8 inch will work, too, but it is often firmer, so doesn’t give the same result.)

1. Cut the Elastic

Cut a piece of elastic to the finished length your fabric will be gathered to. For example, if you are adding a ruffle or skirt to a bodice, you will cut the elastic to the circumference of the bodice. Stretch your elastic out a few times and double check the length. Cut a little off if necessary.

2. Divide the Waist or Edge

Divide your ruffle or skirt bottom in quarters and mark (This is easily done by folding). Divide your elastic in quarters and mark.

4. Match the Marks on the Knit Fabric

Match the marks on the elastic to the marks on the fabric. The fabric will gather in between. You can pin the marks together or I find it easier to just stretch as I sew. Leave a tail of about 1/4 inch for you to grab hold of.

5. Sew the Clear Elastic

Using a zig-zag or straight stitch, secure the first end of the elastic by backstitching a few times.

💡Important: The elastic needs to be fully within the seam allowance, so you don’t need to remove or unpick it once you have finished.

Stretching the elastic (not the fabric) between the marks, stitch over the elastic. Leave a 1/4 inch (6mm) tail at the end, also. Overlap the ends slightly.

💡Note: You will find that the elastic stretches out just a little when you stitch over it, so the slight length adjustment caused by the overlap will not matter.

In Conclusion

Gathering knit fabric with elastic is one of the best ways to create soft, stretchy gathers that move comfortably with the body. Unlike traditional gathering methods, this technique allows seams to stretch without breaking, making it perfect for knit garments. Once you master this method, you’ll find it faster, easier, and more reliable for sewing ruffles, waistlines, and decorative details on stretch fabrics.

Try this technique

• To gather the sleeves on the Elke Dress
• To gather the peplum on the Anthea Dress

Related Articles:

1. Sewing Stretch Fabric without a Serger
2. Types of Knit Fabric
3. Stretch Factor of Fabrics
4. Sewing Stretch Fabric Hems
5. How to Sew Fold Over Elastic