How to Hem a Shirt or T-Shirt (Easy Step-by-Step Guide)

Learning how to hem a shirt is an easy sewing skill that can instantly improve the fit of your clothing. Whether you need to shorten a shirt that is too long, finish a handmade garment, or alter a favorite T-shirt, a well-sewn hem creates a professional-looking finish and helps the garment hang correctly. The best hemming method depends on the type of shirt. Woven shirts are usually finished with a traditional double-fold hem, while T-shirts and other knit garments require stretchy stitches that won’t break when worn. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to hem both shirts and T-shirts using a sewing machine, serger, hand stitching, or even a no-sew method.

How to Hem a Shirt Tutorial

The hemming process of the t-shirt may have different starting points.  If you made the shirt from scratch, you will have to hem it after you have assembled the shirt.  The length of the hem may be the length you want, or you will shorten it according to your needs. Then you will neaten and hem the edge. In the case of a t-shirt being too long, you will need to measure, cut, and neaten before completing the hem. 

What do you need to hem a Shirt?

• Thread in a matching color to your shirt
• Sewing basics – Scissors, pins, tape measure
• Tailor’s chalk or a removable marking pen
• Iron and ironing board
• Sewing machine
• Machine needles – Universal needle for wovens or stretch needles for t-shirts.
• Fusible tape (optional)

Fusible tape will help to secure the hem when you are sewing stretch fabric.  There are two types of fusible tape you could consider.  One is soluble and therefore just holds the hem in place while you sew.  When you give your shirt its first wash the tape dissolves leaving you with the stitched hem.

The other tape option helps to hold the hem in place but is permanent.  It adds body to the hem and keeps it secure.  Try out the type of fusible bonding you prefer, and be sure it will give you the hem suited to your style of T-shirt. Related: how to make a shirt smaller

How to Hem a Shirt (Step by Step)

If you have made your shirt from a pattern and are happy with the length then you will sew the hem to finish the shirt.  The shirt needs to be neatened, including the tail piece, if you cut one, onto the shirt.  You will be left with two choices.  A machine-stitched hem or a hand-stitched one.

Here are the two options – hand sewn or machine hemmed.

Step 1 – Prewash

Wash and press the shirt to remove all creases and have the garment lying flat. Washing first before hemming the shirt will prevent it shrinking and being too short after the first wash.

Step 2 – Try on and Determine the Length

A very easy way to shorten a shirt hem is to find a shirt you have that is the right length and use is as a pattern or template to shorten a hem that is too long.  Simply put the correct shirt on top of the one that needs shortening and cut off the extra unwanted fabric. 

It is a good idea to use a tape measure and pins to guide the cutting line.  Remember to factor in a hem allowance because after you have cut the fabric you will still need to turn up the hem.

Follow the curves and press and pin for accuracy.

Put the shirt on and decide on the length you would like the shirt to be.  Measure the length from the bottom of the shirt to where you want the hem to be. 

Pin all round for a cutting line if you wish to shorten the hem.  If you are happy with the length of the shirt, you can prepare to turn up the hem. If you feel the hem is too long you lay the shirt out and trim off the length of fabric from the hem you do not want.

Step 3 – Press Hem

On the wrong side of the fabric fold the hem up once for a narrow turn over and then a second time to complete the hem in the hem in place. This is a double-fold hem. Press the hem firmly.

Step 4 – Stitch the Hem

Choose a hem stitch that will stitch your hem neatly and lie flat when the hem is complete.  Practice makes perfect, and working on a scrap of fabric helps if you choose a more complicated stitch. 

Start sewing with a straight stitch from the seam to avoid any unsightly joins or starting points if you were to start at the front of the shirt hem. 

It is a good idea to practice your stitch length and tension on a scrap of fabric if possible. When you are sure you have the right tension and stitch you are ready to hem the shirt. Another option is to sew two rows of machine stitches to add a double stitched hem and help the hem to lie flat.

Press the hem to make sure it lies flat.

Hemming a T-Shirt

Step 1 – Wash and Iron the T-Shirt

Most t-shirts will shrink in the first couple of washes, so if it is new, make sure you do a pre-wash. You want it to shrink before you alter the hem and not after. After washing, iron so you can mark and cut the new hem accurately.

Step 2 – Mark the T-Shirt

Try the T-shirt on inside out and mark the desired finished length with tailors chalk. Remove the shirt and measure the distance from the bottom of the shirt to where you want the new hemline to be. Add a hem allowance of 3/4 inch (2cm) for a single fold hem sewn on the machine or 1 inch (2.5cm) for a double fold hem sewn by hand.

Mark this new line that includes the hem allowance. An easy way to do this is to press the hem up to create a crease line where you want to cut off the extra fabric. Cut off the extra fabric. 

Step 3 – Sew the Shirt Hem

There are two options to choose to machine stitch a shirt hem. You can use a zig-zag stitch or a twin needle and a straight stitch. Do not use a straight stitch with a single needle as the stitches will pop since they will not stretch when pulled.  

T-Shirt Hem with a Zig Zag

Before you start, it is always a good idea test the fabric. Using a scrap of fabric from your offcuts, try out the zig-zag stitch size and stretch needles to be sure they work for your new creation. 

1. When you are ready to sew, insert a stretch or ball point needle into your machine.
2. Press up the hem once by 3/4 inch (2cm) on the wrong side. A single-fold hem is sufficient for t-shirts since stretch fabric does not fray. You can serger the raw edge if you like the look but this is not usually done.
3. Hold the hem with sewing pins.
4. Start at one of the side seams. Sew close to the raw edge using a wide zig-zag stitch. The edge of the zig-zag should go over the raw edge and hold it down. Try a stitch length of 3.0 and a width of 3.5.
5. Trim any loose threads and your t-shirt is hemmed and ready to wear.

T-Shirt Hem with a Twin Needle

When you are ready to stitch, it is best to stitch on the right side of the fabric.   This gives you better control over the stitching line and more accuracy. 

1. Insert the twin needle into the machine and thread it with 2 spools of thread on top.
2. Set the machine to a straight stitch length of 3.0.
3. Press up the hem once by 3/4″ (2cm) on the wrong side.
4. Pin the hem in place on the RIGHT side of the t-shirt.
5. On the RIGHT side of the fabric, start at the seam edge and sew all around to meet back at the seam edge.

T-Shirt Hem with a Serger

If you have a serger, then take full advantage of this machine to create a neatened edge and a perfectly stitched hem.  A serger will sew a neat stretchy blind hem. This is the quickest way to hem a T-shirt using a serger.  It does need some practice, and trying it out on a scrap of fabric will be worth your while.

If you have a blind hem foot in your serger toolbox, you can use it or you can still use a normal presser foot. Set your machine up ready to go and try out of a scrap of fabric first.

The secret of success is in the folding of the hem.  You will fold the hem in two steps.

1. Fold the hem the width you require on the wrong side.  The edges may or may not be neatened because stretch fabric does not fray.
2. Make a second fold by folding the folded edge back on itself to the right side of the fabric.  Leave a little edge of the folded fabric sticking out and ready for you to sew on.
3. Now set your serger up with the right settings and stitch tension to complete the task.  Use three threads on your machine.  Sew along the little edge and watch the needle step into the fold as you go along. 

The sidestep of the needle catches the hem and the other stitches neaten the edge. The secret is in the side step and sewing at the right distance to just pick up a tiny portion of the folded fabric. The result is a neat hem finished with just the right amount of stretch.

Different Types of Hem Styles for a Shirt

When you have mastered the art of cutting and reshaping the hem you could decide to get creative with the stitches and the type of hem to complete your shirt.  Here are some suggestions.

• Double Fold Hem
• Narrow Hem
• Rolled Hem
• Scallop Hem
• Single Fold Hem

Hand-Stitched Shirt Hem

The best stitch to use to hand hem a shirt is a slip stitch. Once you have measured and folded the hem of the shirt, choose a matching colored thread. 

1. On the wrong side, press over the hem by 1/4 inch (6mm) and press it again by 3/4″ (2cm) to form a double hem.
2. Insert the needle in the fold of the hem to hide the knot.
3. Start the sewing by slipping the needle through the fold of the hem. 
4. Pick up a small piece of the main fabric.
5. Slip the needle and thread through the fold and out after about ¼ inch(6mm) inside the fold. 
6. Pull the needle through and pick up another small piece of fabric from the T-shirt. 
7. Continue sewing in this manner. Do not pull each stitch too tightly because the fabric of a T-shirt is a stretch fabric.
8. Press the hem on completion.

The advantage of sewing a shirt hem by hand is you have more control over the hemming process. It may be slower, but you know where each stitch will be placed. Hand stitching is also a good option for beginners.

No-Sew Option for Hemming a T-Shirt

If you don’t want to sew the hem of your t-shirt you can use a hemming tape. It will result in a slightly stiffer hem, but most hemming tapes hold well and can withstand repeated washes.

1. Press up the hem on the wrong side by 3/4 inch (2cm).
2. Slip the hemming tape underneath the hem.
3. Iron according to the instructions on the tape packet.

Shirt vs T-Shirt Hems

The type of fabric determines the best hemming method.

• Woven Shirts – Cotton shirts, linen shirts, and blouses are usually hemmed with a double-fold hem using a straight stitch.
• T-Shirts and Knit Shirts – Stretch fabrics require a zig-zag stitch, twin needle, or serger hem so the stitches can stretch with the fabric.

Choosing the correct hemming method will prevent puckering, popped stitches, and uneven hems.

Common Hemming Mistakes

• Skipping the Prewash – New shirts and T-shirts can shrink after washing. Always wash and dry the garment before hemming.
• Cutting Before Measuring Carefully – Measure twice and pin the new length before trimming excess fabric.
• Using a Straight Stitch on T-Shirts – Stretch fabrics need a stretch stitch, zig-zag stitch, twin needle, or serger to prevent broken stitches.
• Not Pressing the Hem First – Pressing creates a crisp fold and makes the hem easier to sew accurately.
• Choosing the Wrong Needle – Use a stretch or ballpoint needle for knit fabrics and a universal needle for woven shirts.

How to Hem a Shirt FAQS

Conclusion

Now you know how to hem a shirt or T-shirt using several different methods. Whether you choose a traditional double-fold hem, a professional twin needle finish, hand stitching, or a quick no-sew solution, the key is careful measuring, pressing, and choosing the correct technique for your fabric. A neatly sewn hem can completely transform the fit of a garment, helping shirts and T-shirts look more polished, comfortable, and custom-made.