How to Hem Pants – With or Without a Machine

Learn how to hem pants beautifully with our without a sewing machine. Regardless of whether you are sewing pants from scratch or altering a store-bought pair, this tutorial will give great results for all sewing levels. I even give you a no-sew option! Buying new pants and then not being able to shorten them is frustrating.  If it feels like a daunting exercise just stop for a moment and read through these simple instructions on how to hem pants.

How to Hem Pants

You’ll be pleasantly surprised at how easy it really is to learn how to hem pants and put up the hem neatly and professionally. 

Supplies

• PANTS – The essential item to shorten and hem.
• SEWING BASICS including pins and scissors. You will also need a ruler and some tailor’s chalk or something to mark the fabric with.
• IRON and ironing board. A presser cloth is recommended if your pants have polyester or synthetic fibers in them. You don’t want scorched or melted pants.
• NEEDLE and matching thread.
• SEWING MACHINE if you plan to sew the hem by machine.
• HEMMING TAPE if you are going to fuse the hem for a no-sew option.

3 Ways How to Hem Pants

Three different techniques will be explained in the steps to hem pants.

1. Machine Stitched
2. Hand Stitched
3. No-Sew

Getting Started

Step 1 – Try them On

Put the pants on with the shoes you will most likely wear with the pants.

Stand in front of a full-length mirror that will reflect the bottom of the pants so you can see what it looks like as you fold up the hem to the required length. 

Different people have different ideas of the finished length but generally, the hem should sit just on the top of the shoe line – not ankle length and not floor length.

Take the amount to be shortened and turn it up to get an idea of how much you may need to trim off to alter the pants.

TIP: Always wash new pants first in case they shrink. You dont’ want to hem the pants only to have them shrink later. This is especially important for cotton fabrics and jeans.

Step 2 – Pin

Get out your pins and roll up a sort of ‘cuff’ at the bottom of the pants to indicate where the new hemline will be.  Pin around the bottom of the pants at this level while the pants are still on so you can check the length.

When you are satisfied that you have the desired effect then remove the pants for the next step. 

TIP: If you are measuring someone else then have them stand on a table so you don’t have to break your back to do the alteration.

Step 3 – Check Both Legs are Even

Take the pants off and turn them to the wrong side. 

Lay them flat on a table and just adjust the pins and the length so both sides are the same length. 

TIP: If you had a lot of fabric to trim off it would be a safe option to trim some of the fabric off to get rid of the bulk and then return to step one and double-check that you are happy with the length.  Don’t forget we will need to add extra for a hem. Rather cut off too little and check than cut off too much and then there’s no turning back!

Step 4 – Press

Take the pants to the ironing board and use a presser cloth to press in the crease of the fold line where the finished length will be.  This crease line is very important as it will be the fold of the hem.

Use a presser cloth because pants can be made of fabric that does not enjoy a hot iron. Return to your sewing table with your pressed pants ready to add a hem allowance and trim off the excess.

Step 5 – Add Seam Allowance

Now is your chance to use your tailor’s chalk and your ruler. Open up the pants on the wrong side and draw the crease line with tailor’s chalk.

Now add a hem allowance and mark that below your hem line. How much you add will depend on how you are going to sew or finish the hem.

Hem Allowance (extra to measure before you cut)

• Double hem – stitched by hand or machine (most common) – Add 1 inches (2.5cm). This will give us a finished 3/4 inch hem. Compare something in your wardrobe that you like and adjust if necessary.
• Blind Hem – best for when you want a wider invisible hem – Add 2 inches (5cm).
• Hemming Tape – best for no-sew options, add the amount of the tape. Most tapes are 3/4 inch (2cm).

Now you have marked the hem, you are ready to cut away the excess fabric. Just to be clear, you will cut on the lower marked line.

Step 6 – Finishing Raw Edges

If you are going to sew a double hem there is no need to finish the raw edge since it will be tucked in the fold.

Step 7 – Stitching

Have your pants wrong way out and now it is time to decide what kind of hem you would like to create. . 

There are three choices to make:

1. Machine hem
2. Hand-stitched/rolled hem
3. Hemming Tape – no sewing required.

How to Hem Pants with a Machine

If you choose to use your machine to hem then see if your machine has a detachable arm function.  The leg of the pants will be easier to manage on the machine if you do.

The 2 most common ways to machine stitch a hem is with either a straight stitch or a blind hem.

Straight Stitch Double Hem

• Press the raw edge of the hem up by 1/4 inch (6mm)
• Press it up again by 3/4 inch (2cm) to create a double fold
• Pin the hem in place. Check your pins are pointing down the leg for better control of the fabric.
• Using a matching thread, start sewing the hem from the inner leg seam.
• Backstitch well at the end.
• Give your hem a final press.

Read more about how to sew a double fold hem.

Blind Hem Stitch

Some machines have a ‘blind hem’ stitch if you would prefer not to see the line of stitching.  When sewn with a matching thread, all you see from the outside is very small vertical stitches.

• Full tutorial on how to sew a blind hem.
• You will need a blind hem foot which has a guide on the side. This comes with most machines.
• For a successful blind hem, you press your hem and then fold the hem section back under the leg of the pants leaving a small part of the folded hem edge to sew on. 
• Sew on the fold of the hem (it will be the top of the hem) and as you stitch the straight stitch is worked on the hem and the little catch stitch nips over into the fabric. Your machine will have a specific stitch for this.
• Open the hem after sewing and press flat. 
• The stitches can hardly be seen especially if you use matching thread.

How to Hem Pants with a Hand Stitch

If you don’t have a sewing machine, you can learn how to hem pants with a simple sewing needle and thread.

Have matching cotton and a threaded needle ready. Most fabrics can be sewn with sharps which are all-purpose sewing needles. These come quite cheaply in packets of assorted sizes.

The main method used to hem pants by hand is the slip stitch or for absolute beginners, the running stitch.

Slip Stitch

• Full slip stitch tutorial
• Press the raw edge of the hem up by 1/4 inch (6mm)
• Press it up again by 3/4 inch (2cm) to create a double fold
• Pin the hem in place.
• Thread your needle with a knot at the end. Start by coming up in the fold of the hem so the knot is hidden.
• Working right to left, take a few threads of the fabric at the edge of the hem.
• Take the needle diagonally along the fold of the hem a distance of 1/4 inch (6mm)
• Repeat.

Running Stitch

Running stitch will show a bit on the outside of the pants but it is by far the easiest stitch for those of you that have not sewn before.

• Full running stitch
• Press the raw edge of the hem up by 1/4 inch (6mm)
• Press it up again by 3/4 inch (2cm) to create a double fold
• Pin the hem in place.
• Thread your needle with a knot at the end. Start by coming up in the fold of the hem so the knot is hidden.
• Sew the hem along the top of the fold with an up and down motion. The smaller the stitches, the stronger your line of stitching will be.

How to Hem Pants – No Sew

This is a very easy option for softer fabrics that don’t need strong enduring hems.

• Cut your pants the desired length making sure you have enough extra for the hem.
• Finish the edge with a zig-zag or serger or leave it raw. If you are looking for a no-sew hemming option then you will most likely leave it raw. The tape will stop some fraying anyway.
• You simply cut your double-sided hemming tape to fit the hem and slide it between the pants and the measured hem then press with a hot iron to fuse the tape.
• Do not press directly onto the fabric in case your fabric is not up to a hot iron. Instead, you can use a pressing cloth in between the iron and your pants.

How to Hem Pants – In Conclusion

Putting up the hem of pants is really an easy process.  Now there is no excuse for having pants that are the wrong length.

MORE HEM ARTICLES

1. GENERAL HEMS – How to Sew a Hem (This is the best article to read if you are not sure what kind of hem you need. It gives a rundown of all the most common types)
2. NARROW HEMS – How to Sew a Narrow Hem
3. ROLLED HEM FOOT – How to Use a Rolled Hem Foot
4. WIDE HEMS – How to sew wide hems
5. CIRCULAR HEMS – How to sew circular hems
6. BLIND HEMS – How to sew a blind hem | blind hem foot
7. RUFFLED HEMS – Lettuce Hems for stretch fabric
8. KNIT FABRIC HEMS – How to hem knit fabric, catch stitch
9. KNIT HEMS – Twin Needle
10. SQUARE HEMS – How to Sew Mitered Corners
11. HAND HEMS – Hemming Stitch
12. WOVEN HEMS – Double Fold Hem
13. SQUARE HEMS – How to Sew Mitered Corners
14. NO-SEW HEMS – How to Use Hemming Tape
15. PANTS – How to Hem Pants