How to Pin Fabric Correctly
Are you wondering how to pin fabric before you sew your first seam? Pinning is a form of basting and is used to hold 2 or more fabrics together before you start sewing. There are 2 main methods you can use to pin fabric – horizontal to the seam or vertically (sometimes referred to as perpendicular). Each method has advantages depending on the fabric and sewing project. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to pin fabric step by step, when to use horizontal or vertical pinning, and tips for sewing curves, quilting, stretch fabrics, and patterns.
How to Pin Fabric (Quick Guide)
Pinning fabric holds layers together before sewing to improve seam accuracy and prevent shifting. Here is the fastest way to pin fabric:
- Prepare and press the fabric
- Align the fabric edges
- Insert pins through both layers
- Space pins evenly
- Remove pins while sewing
How to Pin Fabric (Step by Step)
If you are learning beginner sewing techniques, read the full sewing a seam to improve seam accuracy and sewing control.
This article will show you how to pin fabric to get the best results for your projects.
- Prepare your fabric making sure it is ironed flat.
- Put the edges together. Most seams are sewn with the right sides of the fabric together but check your sewing pattern in case it is different.
- Insert the sharp end of the pin in the fabric and come out a short distance away. The pin should go through both layer of fabric.
- Continue pinning at regular intervals along your fabric. For easy straight seams this can be 1 to 3 inches apart but you will want to decrease this distance considerably for curved seams or tricky areas.
- As you sew, remove each pin before you get to it with the presser foot.
There are 2 directions your pins can face – horizontal or vertically to the fabric edges.
My mother always taught me to pin horizontally, so most of the time, I use this method out of habit. There are circumstances, however, where vertical pinning will be more effective at holding the fabric.
Here we will discuss both methods of pinning fabric so you can decide which is best for you:
How to Pin Fabric Horizontal
When you pin fabric horizontally, you pin it in line with the edge of the fabric.
Make sure the pins are pointing in the same direction as you are sewing so you can remove them easily without pricking your fingers. The heads should be pointing toward you.
Start stitching slowly and remove the pins as you sew. This method is best used for straight seams.
How to Pin Fabric Vertical
Vertical pinning is great for curved pattern pieces and ruffles. Experiment and choose the method that suits you best. There is no right or wrong.
Vertical fabric pinning is especially useful for sewing curves or ruffles as it securely holds the fabric in place. The pins are placed at a 90-degree angle to the edge of the fabric. Since the pins are pinned through your main fabric, it is advisable to first make sure they don’t mark the fabric.
You won’t be able to use this method for fabrics such as fine silk and vinyl, where the pins will leave holes.
Place your pins across the seam allowance with the heads sticking out. (If you are left-handed, then you may find it easier to have them pointing in.) In theory, you can stitch over the pins, but I have had many a broken needle caused by pins that weren’t removed – so don’t do it!
Further Reading: Can you sew over pins?
More Ways of Pinning Fabric
Stretchy Fabric
It is recommended that you use a horizontal method for pinning stretchy fabrics. This is because many pins will snag the delicate stretch fabric and leave holes that will get larger after you have washed your items a couple of times.
Pin a Pattern to Fabric
Pinning a pattern to fabric involves pinning through the tissue paper and down into the fabric. The best way to do this is to smooth your paper pattern flat and then start pinning at the edges. Once the edges are sufficiently secured, place further pins in the center of the pattern piece. I always place a pin at the edges where there are notches so I can cut them accurately.
How to Pin Fabric for Quilting
Quilting can involve pinning through numerous layers, including thick batting. The easiest way to hold quilting together is actually with safety pins rather than regular straight pins. You can purchase specialty quilting pins or use regular safety pins. Ensure you use large ones, however.
How to Get Pin Holes out of Fabric
If you use the wrong size pins or simply have delicate fabric, you may end up with holes where the pins were inserted. Here are some ways to remove these holes.
- Run your nail or a small spoon end over the hole to move the threads to cover it.
- Spray with water, then gently massage the area.
How to Pin Fabric TIPS
- Keep a spare pin cushion next to your machine to put the pins in once you remove them.
- If a pin has trouble piercing your fabric, throw it away immediately. Don’t put it back in the pincushion to have the same problem later.
- Use the correct type of pin for your project. Read my article on types of pins for sewing. Specialty pins for jersey knits and silk will stop unwanted holes or snags in your fabric.
You will need somewhere to store your pins. On this blog, I have several pin cushion patterns, which are great beginner projects.
If you have any extra tips on the best way how to pin fabric for sewing please share them below.
Common Pinning Mistakes and Tips
| Common Mistake | Tip for Better Results |
|---|---|
| Pins placed too far apart allow shifting. | Add extra pins for curves and slippery fabrics. |
| Sewing over pins breaks needles. | Remove pins before the presser foot reaches them. |
| Dull pins snag fabric. | Replace damaged pins immediately. |
| Fabric wrinkles while pinning. | Press fabric flat before pinning. |
| Vertical pinning leaves holes in delicate fabrics. | Use horizontal pinning or clips instead. |
| Curved seams stretch unevenly. | Pin more frequently along curves. |
| Pins inserted only through one fabric layer. | Ensure pins pass through all layers. |
| Pattern pieces shift while cutting. | Pin edges and center sections securely. |
How to Pin Fabric FAQs
The best method depends on the project. Horizontal pinning works well for straight seams, while vertical pinning is better for curves and ruffles.
It is not recommended because sewing over pins can break needles, damage sewing machines, and create uneven stitching.
Pins are usually spaced 1–3 inches (2.5–7.5cm) apart, depending on the fabric and seam type.
Delicate fabrics such as silk, vinyl, and leather may show permanent pin holes and are often better secured with sewing clips.
Pin for Later
How to Pin Fabric – In Conclusion
Learning how to pin fabric properly helps create straighter seams, smoother curves, and more professional sewing results. Whether you are sewing garments, quilting, or working with slippery fabrics, careful pinning improves sewing accuracy and reduces frustration. Once mastered, pinning becomes a quick, simple habit that makes every sewing project easier to manage.
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Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
This is interesting. I am surprised the horizontal and vertical pinning method names are not reversed. In my mind vertical is up and down and horizontal is across.
Thank you for all of this information, broken down in such an easy to understand way! Starting out with sewing can be so overwhelming and I’ll be referring back to your posts often!
Hi Jayne, yes growing up I never knew vertical was a thing either. My mum bastes everything and I love having her help on sewing days as there is never any unpicking to do.
LOL same with me about the horizontal placement…I am 66 years old and have never ever done this. Then on Youtube I see a zillion sewers except designers and tailors who use this method. I was taught by my grandmother that was a tailor and she would scream at me in her Scottish accent to STOP it. She always hand basted curves and ruffles. I always thought it was crazy but I still hear her voice and I just don’t do it.. I love to baste everything because it is a no brainier and I can just hum and daydream while doing it. I also love to sew buttons and hems. Thank you for the post! I was scratching my head watching all of the really great sewers on Youtube pinning on the horizontal. Now I know that it is okay.
Really, nice to see this post. very helpful. Thanks!
Oh Great! Great post to pin fabric. Really, very helpful. Thanks for sharing with us.