How to Pin Fabric – Pinning Fabric Correctly

Are you wondering how to pin fabric before you sew your first seam? Pinning is a form of basting and is used to hold 2 or more fabrics together before you start sewing. There are 2 main methods you can use to pin fabric – horizontal to the seam or vertically (sometimes referred to as perpendicular).

How to Pin Fabric

My mother always taught me to pin horizontally so most of the time I use this method out of habit.

There are circumstances however where vertical pinning will be more effective at holding the fabric.

Vertical pinning is great for curved pattern pieces and ruffles. Experiment and choose the method that suits you best. There is no right or wrong.

How to Pin Fabric Horizontal

When you pin fabric horizontally, you pin in line with the edge of the fabric.

Make sure the pins are pointing in the same direction as you are sewing so you can remove them easily without pricking your fingers. The heads should be pointing towards you.

Start stitching slowly and remove the pins as you sew. This method is best used for straight seams.

How to Pin Fabric Vertical

Vertical fabric pinning is especially useful for sewing curves or ruffles as it securely holds the fabric in place. The pins are placed at a 90-degree angle to the edge of the fabric.

Since the pins are pinned through your main fabric, it is advisable to first make sure they don’t mark the fabric.

You won’t be able to use this method for fabrics such as fine silk and vinyl where the pins will leave holes.

Place your pins across the seam allowance with the heads sticking out. (If you are left-handed then you may find it easier to have them pointing in.)

In theory, you can stitch over the pins but I have had many a broken needle caused by pins that weren’t removed – so don’t do it!

Further Reading: Can you sew over pins?

how to Pin Fabric | TIPS

• Keep a spare pin-cushion next to your machine to put the pins in once you remove them.
• If a pin has trouble piercing your fabric, throw it away immediately. Don’t put it back in the pincushion to have the same problem later.
• Use the correct type of pin for your project. Read my article on types of pins for sewing. Specialty pins for jersey knits and silk will stop unwanted holes or snags in your fabric.

You will need somewhere to store your pins. On this blog, I have several pin cushion patterns which are great beginner projects.

• Round Pincushion
• Square Pincushion

If you have any extra tips on the best way how to pin fabric for sewing please share below.

More Beginner Sewing Articles

• Beginners Sewing Kit on a Budget – Find out the basic supplies to purchase for your first sewing kit.
• Cutting Tools – Find out the best tools to cut fabric and threads.
• Marking Tools – When sewing, you often need to mark the fabric. These are the best and cheapest tools to purchase.
• Sewing Machine Needles – Size and Type Guide.
• Sewing Machine Feet – Top 10 to buy.
• Hand Sewing Needles – Sizes and Type Guide.
• Sewing Thread Types – Choose the best thread type for your project.
• Dressmaker Dummy – Types to buy if you want to set up a business or will be sewing regularly.
• Pressing Tools – When sewing, items need to be pressed along the way with an iron.