How to Sew a Zipper – Easiest Way for Beginners
Learn how to sew a zipper! Do you want to be able to master all the basics but find the last thing you feel confident to tackle is how to sew a zipper? Why does the thought of sewing in a zipper come last on your list of sewing skills? Get to know the zipper better and you will have a different outlook.
How to Sew a Zipper (Quick Guide)
The easiest way to sew a zipper is with the centered zipper method. First sew the seam, baste the zipper opening closed, position the zipper underneath the seam allowance, then topstitch around the zipper before removing the basting stitches.
- Finish the fabric edges.
- Sew the seam.
- Baste the zipper opening.
- Press the seam open.
- Position the zipper.
- Baste or tape the zipper in place.
- Stitch around the zipper.
- Remove the basting stitches.
What Is a Zipper?
A zipper is a fastening device made from interlocking teeth that open and close using a slider. Zippers are commonly used in clothing, bags, cushions, luggage, and outdoor gear because they create a secure yet easy-to-use closure. The zipper is a really valuable addition to the sewing world, and with a bit of practice and a few helpful tips, you should be able to tackle this technique with confidence. The method you use to sew a zipper will depend on the type of zipper you are using.
Choosing the Right Zipper
Before sewing a zipper, it is important to choose the correct style for your project. The most common zipper types are coil zippers, invisible zippers, metal zippers, and open-ended jacket zippers. Each style is designed for different garments and sewing applications.
For a detailed comparison of zipper styles, sizes, and uses, read my complete guide to types of zippers.
How to Sew a Zipper (Step by Step)
The most well-known method of sewing a zipper is the central seam method. These are the basic instructions to follow to insert this zipper.
How to Sew a Zipper Video Tutorial
Supplies to Sew a Zipper
To learn how to sew a zipper you need:
- ZIPPER – If your zipper is the wrong length for your project, then you can shorten it. (Read how to shorten a zipper). if you are a beginner sewer, use plastic zippers as these are easier to sew than metal ones.
- PRESSER FOOT – You will need a zipper foot. This allows you to stitch on one side. Most machines will come with a zipper foot, but if you have lost yours, then consider purchasing a set of presser feet from Amazon or eBay.
- SEWING BASICS – Sewing machine, pins, sewer’s tape, or scotch tape, scissors, thread.
Zippers are measured from metal to metal or from the stopper at the top to the retainer bar at the bottom. That is the actual open part of the finished zipper. (Read how to measure zippers)
Step 1 – Finish Fabric Edges
Start with finishing the edges of the fabric to be closed with a zipper. I have used a serger, but if you just have a regular machine, then a simple zig-zag will work nicely. (Read seam finishes without a serger).
If you use a serger, then be careful you don’t cut too much of the seam allowance off, as it will make the edges too short to insert your zipper.
Step 2 – Sew Edges Along the Seam
Sew the two pieces together with the right sides together up to where the zipper will be inserted. You will be using a regular length stitch and the seam allowance indicated in your pattern. This will usually be either 1/2 inch (12mm) or 5/8 inch (15mm). Backstitch the endpoints.
Step 3 – Baste Gap
Use a long machine basting stitch length of 4.0-5.0 on the part that will be open for the zipper. See my red stitching. Don’t bother backstitching the ends as this will be unpicked later.
Step 4 – Press Open
Turn to the wrong side and press open the seam allowance.
Step 5 – Place Zipper Face Down
On the wrong side, place the zipper tape face down along the basted seam (red stitching). Always start at the top, aligning the top of the zipper with the top raw edge. The zipper pull should be up. The blue stitching is the end of my zipper, as I have shortened it. Your zipper stop will probably have a metal piece here.
If you are not happy with the length of the zipper you are going to insert and it is a plastic variety, you cut it. Hand stitch the bottom half an inch from the required length, and there you have the perfect length zipper for you. (Read how to shorten a zipper)
Step 6 – Baste Zipper
Put temporary tape across the zipper at the back at intervals to keep it in place. You can use scotch tape or sewer’s tape to do the trick. I prefer tape to using pins as it tends to stay flatter this way.
Make sure you tape the ends so they stay relatively straight. They do always separate slightly due to the bulk of the zipper head. If you place your zipper head facing down, it will be slightly less bulky to sew over later.
Step 7 – Pin Bar
Turn the fabric over and put a pin across the end just after the metal retainer bar. This gives us a guide to sew over so you don’t hit any metal with your needle.
Step 8 – Stitch Zipper
Now you are ready to sew – change to your zipper foot and check the settings of your needle so that the needle is on the correct side to sew in the zipper. My zipper foot is to the right so I can start by sewing down the right side of the zipper.
There are two recommended ways to stitch the zipper:
- You can start on one side and stitch down the zip to the bottom, turn and then stitch a couple of rows over each other to secure the end. Make the stitches the width you require at the bottom before stitching up the other side to the top.
- The other method is to stitch the bottom in place at the width you require and then stitch one side to the top. Lift the foot and cut the threads before stitching the other side. It is a good idea to practice on a scrap until you find the method you like best.
Step 9 – Open the Seam
Now use your seam ripper to open the seam to the required length to be able to open and close the zip.
Other Ways to Sew a Zipper
Common Mistakes and Tips When Sewing Zippers
| Mistake | Tip |
|---|---|
| Skipping the basting step | Basting keeps the zipper perfectly aligned. |
| Using the wrong zipper type | Match the zipper to the project. |
| Forgetting to press the seam open | Pressing improves zipper accuracy. |
| Sewing too close to metal stops | Stop before reaching metal hardware. |
| Using a regular foot | A zipper foot provides better access and accuracy. |
How to Sew a Zipper FAQs
In order to sew a zipper in the center seam, you will need a seam allowance of either 1/2 inch (12mm) or 5/8 inch (15mm). This will give you a wide enough seam to place the zipper underneath and stitch it in place with a zipper foot.
When sewing a zipper, you will always do so with a straight stitch. Zippers need to be sewn with a zipper foot, and this foot does not allow any side movement. Thus decorative stitches like the zig zag stitch are no good as the needle would break once it hits the zipper foot.
You can use the above method for sewing a zipper by hand. For the seam, use a backstitch. This hand stitch is strong, particularly when done with a short stitch length. For the basting stitch, use a running stitch. This is an easy-to-remove hand stitch. And finally, for the outside stitching, repeat your backstitch.
The zipper is a very useful and professional way to bring closure to many articles you make. Sewing zippers are used to fasten all kinds of articles. Bags, purses, dresses, skirts, jackets, soft furnishings, camping, and sports gear, just to name a few.
Pin for Later
How to Sew a Zipper – In Conclusion
Learning how to sew a zipper is an essential sewing skill that allows you to create professional-looking garments, bags, cushions, and home décor projects. Once you understand zipper types and insertion methods, you’ll find that sewing zippers is far less intimidating than it first appears. Start with the centered zipper method and gradually explore invisible, lapped, and exposed zipper techniques as your confidence grows.
What to Learn Next
How to Sew a Zipper
Difficulty
Tools
- Sewing machine
- Zipper Foot
- Zipper
Materials
- Fabric
Instructions
- Finish the edges of the fabric where the zipper will be inserted. Put the fabric right sides together and sew up to where the zipper will be inserted. Backstitch at the end.
- Use a long stitch length (4.0) the baste the seam where the zipper will be inserted. Do not backstitch the ends. This will be removed later.
- Press open the entire seam. On the wrong side, place the zipper face down along the basted seam (red stitching). Put temporary tape or pins across the zipper at the back at intervals to keep it in place.
- Turn the fabric over and put a pin across the end just after the metal retainer bar. Using a zipper foot sew down the right side of the zipper. Go across the bottom and then up the other side.
- Open the basted seam with a seam ripper.
Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
Oh my actual days! Thank you so so so much for this!!!
I struggle beyond belief with zippers, always have and thought I always would 😞
Yesterday I had a final straw moment as I tried to rip out a zipper for the 3rd time and ripped through the zip itself 😳
I used some choice words and decided to call it a night. When I was lovingly awoken by my husband’s snoring at 4am I thought I’d have a search online to see if there was anything that could help with my zipper issues…. And I found this utter game changer of a post!!!! 🥳🥳🥳
I do wonder if this is a known method and I wasn’t let in on the secret?!
Today alone I’ve put zips into 3 frocks and it has been a magical happy sewing day 😃😃😃
Thank you from the bottom of my happy little heart 😃😃😃
Thank you for this tutorial. It is by far the easiest to follow I have seen on the internet; it actually makes sense!! Now I feel ready to tackle a zipper when previously I’ve given up trying to understand even how to do it!