How to Sew an Exposed Zipper – 2 Easy Ways

Learning how to sew an exposed zipper is a great way to add a decorative and professional-looking detail to garments, bags, and sewing projects. Unlike invisible or centered zippers, exposed zippers are designed to be seen, making the zipper part of the overall design. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew an exposed zipper using three beginner-friendly methods. Whether you want the zipper positioned beneath an opening or stitched directly over a seam, these techniques work with both metal and plastic zippers.

Choosing a Zipper for an Exposed Zipper Design

In most handbags and fashion garments, exposed zippers predominantly have metal teeth to add shine and interest. But the great news is that these methods will work equally with metal or plastic zippers. Save yourself a trip to the shops and just use what you have in your stash!

1. You can insert a zipper into part of a garment that does not have an opening or seam. In this instance, you will have to create the opening like the red zipper below – OR
2. You can insert an exposed zipper into a seam. If you are inserting the zipper in a seam, you can choose to have the zipper tape on top of the garment (blue zipper example) or underneath the seam (green zipper example).

If you’re new to zipper sewing, start with my complete How to Sew a Zipper guide before trying decorative zipper techniques.

How to Sew an Exposed Zipper (Step by Step)

When you plan to insert a zipper underneath the fabric, you have to create the opening before you start.

Step 1 – Cutting the Stay (Facing)

You must insert a piece of facing or ‘stay’ into the area to be prepared for the zipper. This ‘stay’ can be fabric or fusible facing.  I generally use a pretty contrasting piece of fabric as it looks nice inside. It creates added weight to the area to be cut as an opening for the zipper.

Cut the piece 3 inches (7.5cm) wide and 2 1/2 inches (6.5cm) longer than the zipper opening (Don’t forget – the opening is measured along the teeth and not the tape).

You can serger or zigzag the sides and bottom edges of the stay if it is a fabric that frays. I normally do this when sewing exposed zippers as it looks much nicer, but I forgot in this tutorial.

Step 2 – Mark the Zipper Opening

On the wrong side of the stay, use a marker pen or pencil to mark the position of the zipper. The size of this opening will determine how much of the zipper will show. Don’t forget to add at least 1/4 inch seam allowance to the sides.

My zipper tape width was 1 inch (2.5cm) so I marked 3/4 inch (2cm across). For the length, I marked from the top of the zipper tape to just below the metal bar.

(*Zip tip….buy a zipper that is big enough to allow you to put your head through the opening created if this is on a neckline)

Step 3 – Putting in the Stay

With right sides together, place your stay on top of the fabric where you want your opening to be, and stitch along your markings.

Step 4 – Cutting the Opening

Cut down the center of the area to about ½ an inch (12mm) before the end and then cut into the corners diagonally. Be careful you don’t cut across the stitching. 

Step 5 – Turning in the Stay

The next step is to turn the stay to the inside (wrong side of the garment) and press it down. Allow the stay to roll inside the opening slightly so the seam will not be visible outside.

If you are getting little wrinkles in the bottom corners, you may need to check you clipped to the stitching line in the previous step. The more accurate you were, the flatter it will sit.

Step 6 – Set Zipper in Place

Flip your garment back to the right side. Now, center the zipper underneath the opening. Ensure the zipper stop’s bottom is flush against the bottom end of the opening. Pin in place.

(*Zip tip….Baste the zipper in place because pins can cause the fabric to pucker and makes sewing more difficult.)

Step 7 – Stitching the Exposed Zipper

You will need to put your trusty zipper foot on your machine now. This will allow you to get nice and close to the zipper edges.

Starting at the top, stitch all the way around the zipper. If you have a bulky zipper head like my metal one, you may need to move it out of the way a couple of times to get nice straight stitching.

Check your handiwork and see that the zipper runs smoothly. Now, you are ready to continue to sew up your garment.

Other Methods for Sewing an Exposed Zipper

This technique allows you to insert the exposed zipper using the seam as the opening.

Exposed Zipper Under the Fabric

1. Preparation: Sew your seam as usual, all the way to the top of the garment. You will sew shut the area where the exposed zipper will be placed. Finish the edges and press open the seam.

2. Cut and stitch the stay: Flip your garment the right way out.  Cut out a stay and stitch the opening the same way as in the method without a seam. The only difference is that you will be centering the stay directly over the right side of the seam. 

3. Continue: Continue in the same manner as the method without a seam and this is what your end zip will look like!

Zipper On top of the Fabric

This is a really easy method for maximum impact since you can see all of the zipper. You will often see this on clothing with bright contrast zippers.

1. Preparation: Finish both sides of the fabric on the seam where the exposed zipper will be placed. You can use a serger or zig-zag stitch.

2. Sewing the Seam: Put the two pieces of fabric with right sides together and stitch the seam to the point where the zip will be inserted. Leave a 1/4 inch (6mm) gap and baste (using your longest machine stitch) the top of the seam shut where the zipper will be placed.

3. Press open the seam: Press open the seam all the way to the top.

4. Set the zipper in place: Flip your garment to the right side. Now starting at the top, center the zipper on top of the seam. Pin it in place. For the bottom of the zipper, simply fold under the raw edges to give a neat appearance.

(*Zip tip….Baste the zipper in place because pins can cause the zipper to pucker and makes sewing more difficult.)

5. Stitch the Zipper: Like the previous methods, it is now time to install the zipper foot on your machine. Starting at the top, stitch down the sides and bottom of the zipper. Stitch down the inside and outside of the tape and then across the bottom. If your zipper head is bulky, you may need to move it out of the way several times.

Voila you have made a fashion statement!

Pin for Later

How to Sew an Exposed Zipper – Extra Tips

• Different colored zippers are fun for adding color to your outfits. Zips with plastic teeth make a colorful style statement and different colored cotton can liven up your already trendy zipper.
• Design some trendy pulls for the zipper with beads, toggles, and even little trinkets you may have lying around.
• Have fun with different colored cottons or some embroidery stitches to get creative with your new exposed zipper.

Common Mistakes and Tips:

Mistake	Tip
Opening puckers	Use a stay or interfacing behind the zipper.
Crooked topstitching	Baste the zipper before stitching.
Visible seam allowance	Press carefully after turning the opening.
Needle hitting metal stops	Mark the zipper stop location before sewing.
Fabric stretching	Stabilize lightweight fabrics with interfacing.

How to Sew an Exposed Zipper FAQs

How to Sew an Exposed Zipper – In Conclusion

Learning how to sew an exposed zipper opens up many creative possibilities for garments, bags, and accessories. Whether you choose a metal zipper for a bold fashion statement or a colorful plastic zipper for a fun decorative detail, exposed zippers can transform a simple project into something unique. Once you have mastered these techniques, try experimenting with different zipper colors, decorative pulls, and contrasting topstitching to create your own custom designs.

Looking for a more hidden finish? Learn How to Sew an Invisible Zipper or compare different Types of Zipper to find the best option for your project.

More zipper articles

1. How to Shorten a Zipper – plastic or metal
2. How to Cover Zipper Ends
3. How to Sew a Zipper
4. How to Fix a Zipper
5. How to Sew a Zipper Pocket