Last tutorial we learned how to sew double fold bias tape. This week I will show you how to sew bias tape that is single fold. The techniques used are very similar. Single fold bias is often used around clothing necklines and armholes to provide a clean and simple edge finish. You can stitch it inside the garment if you don’t wish to see it or on the outside for a decorative contrast effect like the Bella dress below.
How to Sew Bias Tape for Necklines and Curves
Necklines, armholes and curves often use single fold bias tape to give a clean edge finish without the use of facing. The most commonly used width is 1/2 inch (12mm) single fold bias as it is easy to handle and narrow enough to curve easily without wrinkling.
You can use store-bought single fold bias tape or make your own. The advantage of making your own is that you have an endless choice of patterned fabrics you can use. Read how to make bias binding tape. You can make it with or without a bias tape maker so don’t worry if you don’t have any fancy gadgets.
How to Sew Bias Tape: The Video
Watch this quick video I made to show you the process of how to sew bias tape.
HOW TO SEW BIAS TAPE
Because single fold bias is commonly used around highly curved areas you should start by pressing it in a curve. This helps it sit better with fewer wrinkles in your finished product. Just put your iron on steam and gently manipulate the bias as shown below.
Start by opening up one side of the bias and pinning it with wrong side up around the raw edge of the fabric.
- DECORATIVE BIAS ON THE OUTSIDE OF A ARMHOLE OR NECKLINE – If you wish for the bias to show on the outside of the garment like the Bella Dress (red dress), then pin on the inside.
- INVISIBLE BIAS FOR ARMHOLES AND NECKLINES – If you wish the bias to end up on the inside for an invisible finish (like my denim sample), then pin the bias to the outside.
If you need to overlap the bias for a circular opening like a neck or armhole, then start somewhere like the shoulder seam or back where it won’t be noticed. Fold the end of the bias over by 1/2 inch (12mm).
When you get back to where you started, simply overlap the ends by 1/2 inch (12mm). Just leave the end flat – there is no need to fold the top piece.
Stitch along the bias in the crease closest to the edge. If you are using 1/2 inch (12mm) single fold bias hen this will be 1/4 inch (6mm) from the raw edge.
Now press the bias to the other side and press and pin it down. See in the picture below how the seam is now on the edge. The edges should be tucked under.
Edge stitch the bias in place close to the bottom edge. Give your finished bias a really good press. You will be surprised how much flatter it sits.
HOW TO FINISH AN END WITH SINGLE FOLD BIAS TAPE
If you need have an edge to finish with single fold bias tape, simply fold the end over when you stitch it in the first step.
Press the bias to the other side with the edge tucked in.
Here is a photo of bias binding where it is used on the inside of the neckline and armholes. The process is identical except the bias was attached to the outside in the first step and then flipped to the inside. You can see this clearly in the video on how to sew bias tape.
PIN THIS IMAGE FOR LATER 🙂
More Articles on Bias Tape
- How to Make Bias Tape with a Bias Maker
- How to Make Bias Tape with no Special Tools
- How to Sew Single Fold Bias Tape
- How to Sew Double Fold Bias Tape
- How to Make Continuous Bias Tape
- How to sew Mitred Square Corners with Bias Tape
- Types of Bias Tape
- Bias Bound Seam
- Hong Kong Finish
- Sewing Bias Tape
- How to Sew a V Neck with Bias Tape
- Types of Bias Tape