Last tutorial we learned how to sew double fold bias tape. This week I will show you how to sew bias tape that is single fold. The techniques used are very similar. Single fold bias is often used around clothing necklines and armholes to provide a clean and simple edge finish. You can stitch it inside the garment if you don’t wish to see it or on the outside for a decorative contrast effect like the Bella dress below.
HOW TO SEW BIAS TAPE
Because single fold bias is commonly used around highly curved areas you should start by pressing it in a curve. This helps it sit better with fewer wrinkles in your finished product. Just put your iron on steam and gently manipulate the bias as shown below.
Start by opening up one side of the bias and pinning it with wrong side up around the raw edge of the fabric.
- DECORATIVE BIAS ON THE OUTSIDE OF A ARMHOLE OR NECKLINE – If you wish for the bias to show on the outside of the garment like the Bella Dress, then pin on the inside.
- INVISIBLE BIAS FOR ARMHOLES AND NECKLINES – If you wish the bias to end up on the inside for an invisible finish, then pin the bias to the outside.
If you need to overlap the bias for a circular opening like a neck or armhole, then start somewhere like the shoulder seam or back where it won’t be noticed. Fold the end of the bias over by 1/2 inch (12mm).
When you get back to where you started, simply overlap the ends by 1/2 inch (12mm). Just leave the end flat – there is no need to fold the top piece.
Stitch along the bias in the crease closest to the edge. If you are using 1/2 inch (12mm) single fold bias hen this will be 1/4 inch (6mm) from the raw edge.
Now press the bias to the other side and press and pin it down. See in the picture below how the seam is now on the edge. The edges should be tucked under.
Edge stitch the bias in place close to the bottom edge. Give your finished bias a really good press. You will be surprised how much flatter it sits.
HOW TO FINISH AN END WITH SINGLE FOLD BIAS TAPE
If you need have an edge to finish with single fold bias tape, simply fold the end over when you stitch it in the first step.
Press the bias to the other side with the edge tucked in.
READY TO START SEWING?
The Bella Dress sewing pattern uses pretty contrast bias around the neck and armholes.
PIN THIS IMAGE FOR LATER 🙂
Learn more about sewing bias tape in my 6 part series
PART 1 – How to Make Bias Tape with a Bias Maker
PART 2 – How to Make Bias Tape with no Special Tools
PART 3 – How to Sew Bias Tape – Single fold for necks and armholes
PART 4 – How to Sew Double Fold Bias Tape
PART 5 – How to Make Continuous Bias Tape
PART 6 – How to sew Mitred Square Corners with Bias Tape