How to Sew Binding on a Leotard (Swimwear Binding Tutorial)

Learning how to sew binding on a leotard or swimsuit is a great way to add a clean, professional finish while introducing a pop of color and contrast. Binding can be used instead of elastic at necklines and armholes, giving your garment a polished, decorative edge. With just a few simple adjustments, you can modify most leotard patterns to include binding and elevate the overall look of your project.

How to Sew Binding on a Leotard and Swimwear

Before you start, check if your pattern has a leotard binding option. If your pattern doesn’t already have binding then check the seam allowances and cut them off if necessary. Most of my leotard patterns which have a turned over elastic neck have a 3/8 inch (1cm) seam allowance. You can certainly use this technique for leg holes as well, but you may find a few complaints about comfort. Leg holes generally sit firmly and comfortably using the regular elastic method (Read how to sew elastic in leotards)

If you are new to sewing elastic, read the full how to sew elastic for beginners guide.

What is Leotard Binding?

Leotard binding is a sewing technique where a strip of stretch fabric is sewn over elastic to finish edges such as necklines and armholes. It creates a clean, stretchy, and decorative edge commonly used in swimwear and activewear.

Binding is best used when:

• You want a decorative contrast edge
• Working with stretch fabrics like Lycra
• Replacing elastic finishes
• Creating a clean neckline or armhole finish

Leotard Binding Measurements

Here is a summary of the leotard binding measurements:

Item	Measurement
Binding width	1¾ inch (4.5 cm)
Seam allowance	⅜ inch (1 cm)
Elastic length	Slightly shorter than opening
Stitch type	Zigzag or stretch stitch

Here are some of my bestselling leotard patterns: SHOP LEOTARD PATTERNS

How to Sew Binding on a Leotard (Step-by-Step)

If this is your first leotard, read my article on how to sew a leotard for beginners.

Step 1 – Sew the Elastic

1. Cut the elastic according to the pattern instructions and cut the binding to the same length. The binding should be 1 3/4 inch (4.5cm) wide. Due to the stretch factor of Lycra and Spandex, this will be smaller than the edge.
2. If you are sewing binding to an enclosed round area like the neck, then sew both your binding and elastic in a loop before you start and mark them in quarters.

Step 2 – Match to Leotard

Divide your garment neck into quarters and match the quarter marks on the binding. If you are not sure where the best place to buy leotard fabric is, see my Buying Guide for Spandex and Lycra.

Step 3 – Sew the Leotard Binding

With RIGHT sides together, baste the binding to the garment edge, matching any marks. Use a long straight stitch and stretch as you sew. The stitches may look a little loopy, but this will be hidden in the construction. If you are new to sewing, read how to sew Lycra and Spandex to get the best results.

Place the elastic on top of the binding close to the edge. Match any markings indicated in the pattern instructions. Zig-zag along the middle of the elastic through all layers. As a general rule, the elastic will be just slightly smaller than the binding, so you will stretch it between the marks as you sew. Read how to sew elastic in leotards and swimwear if this is your first time sewing elastic.

7. With your garment RIGHT side up, fold the binding up and over the elastic to the back.
8. Try to get it nice and tight and pin it in place. Vertical pinning holds it the best. The tighter you can get it, the more professional your finished binding will look.

As you get more experienced, you may find that it is easier to wrap the binding and sew without pinning.  But if you are a beginner, then you will get the best results by using pins and then hand-basting before you machine-stitch.

See how it looks on the back. Don’t worry about how wide the binding is at the back as we will cut any excess later.

9. On the RIGHT side of the garment, stitch a small zig-zag close to the edge of the binding. It is important that you use a stretch stitch. Don’t be tempted to use straight stitches as they never look neat and won’t stretch enough.

If you use matching colored cotton, these tiny zig-zag stitches will be almost invisible. They will also stop the binding from overstretching and be durable. Experienced sewers may use a twin needle instead.

10. Turn your garment to the wrong side and cut the excess binding. Use a small pointed pair of scissors to get close to the stitching and to minimize the risk of accidentally cutting a hole. I always find that large scissors make it hard to get a neat edge that is close to the stitches. Be careful!

And there you have your finished binding! Use contrast colors for maximum impact. For more stretch sewing techniques, see How to Sew Spandex Straps.

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How to Sew Binding FAQs

In Conclusion

Using binding on a leotard or swimsuit is a great way to create a clean, professional finish while adding decorative detail. By combining elastic with binding and using the correct stretch stitches, you can achieve a durable and flexible edge that moves with the body. Once you master this technique, you can customize your leotards with contrast colors, unique finishes, and professional-looking edges that stand out. Find downloadable sewing patterns for leotards in the Treasurie pattern shop.