Sewing ruching is simply a way of gathering, pleating, or the folding of extra fabric. A French word for ‘strip of cloth’, it is part of the French couture that can be used to make our garments fancier. Here I will show you 4 different approaches on how to sew ruching.
What is Ruching?
Ruching is a technique used to gather and create volume, texture and interest in skirts, sleeves, and bodices. It is created by gathering and pleating excess fabric and can be symmetrical or asymmetrical in design. Ruching is especially popular on wedding gowns and gives the bride an opportunity to show off a bit of extra frill and fancy.
Uses of Ruching
Ruching can be used in various garments and in various places. Here are some examples of how ruching can be used:
- Dresses - Ruching can be used in the bodice and is particularly beautiful when done using sheer fabrics around the bust line. Sheer fabrics may need to be lined underneath the ruching. Ruching can be used on the sides of modern stretch dresses or at the hem of period costumes.
- Swimsuits and Leotards - Ruching is often used at the waistline to add shape and interest.
- Maternitywear - Ruching is used at the waist of maternity wear to add volume to the front to allow for an expanding belly. It makes clothing more comfortable for expecting mothers.
Pattern Alterations for Ruching
There are a few ways you can apply ruching to a garment and if you are following a pattern there should be detailed instructions but if you decide you liked a picture you saw with ruching then you will need to choose your own variation.
If your pattern needs altering, you will need to create length in the area to be ruched. This skirt with one side seam ruched is a common modern style using ruching. Elongate the pattern on the side you want the ruching. The greater the asymmetry in the hem of the pattern piece, the greater the gathering that will be created.
How to Sew Ruching Tutorial - 4 Methods
These are the 4 most common methods of gathering with ruching
- Ruching with elastic
- How to sew ruching with gathering
- Ruching with cord
- Ruching with pleats
Method #1: Ruching with Elastic
You will often see ruching with elastic used in gathering leotard necklines and stretch fabric but it works equally well for wovens.
Why Use Elastic for Ruching? The elastic is used to gather up the fabric at the point where you require some extra fullness for example in the bust or neckline. Or perhaps you had too much fullness and want to make the garment more fitting. It can also be used for decorative purposes and is common in costumes.
Sewing Elastic for Ruching
Start by cutting the elastic to the length you want the finished ruching.
Pin either end of the elastic along the fabric to be ruched at its full length. Because the fabric is longer than the elastic, it will gather in between the endpoints. The ruching occurs when the elastic causes the material to scrunch up but is still loose enough to pull on.
Pin either end of the elastic along the fabric to be ruched at its full length. Because the fabric is longer than the elastic, it will gather in between the endpoints. The ruching occurs when the elastic causes the material to scrunch up but is still loose enough to pull on.
Backstitch well at the beginning to secure elastic and then stitch while gently pulling the elastic to get the elastic to fit all the way to the end of the ruched area. You will generally need to pull the elastic both in front and behind the sewing machine foot.
You can straight-stitch the elastic or zig-zag over it. My preference is a small zig-zag but you can experiment to see which you like the look of best.
Notice my stitches skipped in the middle of the elastic. This could have been easily prevented by using a stretch needle. (Read sewing machine needle types). Careful you don't pull the elastic too hard as you sew over it or you will create uneven length stitches.
Turn the fabric to the right side and this is how it will look. Lovely gathered ruching!
Method #2: How to Sew Ruching with Gathering
Sew a gathering stitch over the middle or top of the strip with the longest stitch on your machine.
Depending on the amount of control you want in your gathers, you may sew 2 or 3 lines of gathering.
Pull up the threads of cotton to gather the ruched strip and make sure the gathers are even and fit the area that you have decided to put a strip of ruching over.
Use the ruched strip as a frill or a ruffle on any part of a garment you wish to decorate. Further reading: How to gather
Method #3: How to Sew Ruching with Cord
You can also sew ruching by creating a casing through which to thread a cord or a fabric pull tie.
This casing can be on the outside of the garment for a decorative effect and for a punch of contrast color, or on the inside for an invisible finish.
Cut a strip of fabric around 1 ½ inches wide (4cm). The length will be that of the garment edge to be gathered and add ½ inch (12mm) for seam allowances on the top and bottom.
On the wrong side of the strip, press the raw edges over by ¼ inch (6mm) all the way around.
Place the strip right side up on the main fabric. This may be on the outside or inside of the garment depending on the look you want.
Stitch around the outside of the strip leaving one end open. Stitch up the middle leaving a ¾ inch (2cm) gap at the closed end.
Attach your cord to a safety pin and thread it up, turn at the top and go down the other side. It does take a little maneuvering to navigate the turn at the top.
Pull the cord to your desired length and cut any excess cord. You can knot the ends to stop it from pulling through or alternatively put a couple of stitches at the top.
Look at is an example of cord ruching used on the inside of the dress to create interesting features.
Method # 4: Ruching with Pleating
Instead of gathering, a ruched effect can be achieved by pleating the strip of fabric to fit into a bodice or on a sleeve or around any part of the garment you would like to add some detail. Pleated ruching gives a very dramatic effect on ball gowns and bridal gowns. Read all about how to sew pleats.
Thinner fabric works best so try out the fabric first with a strip to see if it is a suitable weight for the ruched effect.
Ruching FAQs
What Does Ruching Mean?
Ruching is a gathering method whereby elastic, fabric or cord is manipulated to give a pleated or rippled look. It is widely used in the production of wedding gowns and can be used to create interesting volume in dresses, skirts and tops.
Difference between Ruching and Shirring
Shirring is created using elastic thread in the bobbin to create an elastic band around a waistband or dress. Volume is not created in the same way as ruching. Basically, you will put the shirring elastic in the bobbin and normal thread in the top.
Further reading: how to sew shirring.
How to Sew Ruching - In Conclusion
Learning how to sew ruching is one of those clever little ways to add a bit of sparkle to your dressmaking. It will help you turn a ‘plain Jane’ item into a sassy little piece of ruched haute couture!
Looking for More on Sewing Elastic
Learn all about sewing elastic for waistbands and fabric edges with this easy tutorial that will show you the best methods for various items.
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