Learning about sewing stripes doesn't have to be a challenge. Today is the day! If you are in front of a sewing machine it is time to ‘earn your stripes!’ It starts with laying the pattern, cutting the fabric and then sewing with some precision while matching the stripes. Don't worry it is not hard! Striped dresses, shirts and tops are stylish and a classic way to update your wardrobe. Here you will learn about sewing stripes and get all the tips and tricks you need to perfectly match seams.
Step 1 - Know Your Stripes
Stripes can be broad or thin, horizontal or vertical, even or uneven and finally printed or woven. The size and directions are easy concepts to follow and you can add diagonal stripes by cutting diagonally on on the bias.
Even or uneven refers to the size and pattern of the stripes and the color way. Then the stripes can be in the dye print or in the weave of the fabric. If your stripes are woven then generally the stripe is visible on the reverse side of the fabric as well.
Step 2 - Understand your Pattern
It is important when sewing stripes to choose a pattern that suits. A pattern that is too fussy and has too many different pieces makes using stripes difficult. Choose a simple pattern with perhaps a yoke design if you want to play around with stripes for the first time. A band, pockets or collar can also be used to add interest.
Step 3 - Pattern Layout and Cutting
The most important thing to remember before sewing stripes is that you must cut accurately. You don't want the fabric to slip when you are cutting and all stripes must be horizontal around the body and not at strange angles.
When you lay out your fabric ready for cutting, fold it in half and pin your stripes together to get them to match before you place down the pattern. Keep in mind that the stripes may have been cut crooked in the shop, so check the edges carefully. You may need to work on the floor as you will want all the fabric flat and not hanging off the ends of the table. Hanging fabric may cause distortions, particularly if you are cutting stretch.
You may find it easier to cut with the fabric unfolded for really fine or difficult to match stripes. Don't forget to flip pattern pieces that will need to be a mirror image.
Side seams are one of the key matching options when sewing stripes, so look for notches that will help you match. Another easy way to match stripes is to start matching at the hem.
It is a good idea to use dressmaker’s carbon and a tracing wheel to transfer the pattern markings and remove the pattern before you cut. This way you can keep your eye on the stripes and double-check as you go. Just don't go cross-eyed! Small stripes are very hard to look at for long periods of time.
Sleeves are difficult to match up so depending on the stripe, try to fix the center stripe to match and as many others as you can. Don’t get too fixated on this as the sleeve top is a curved edge so will rarely be exactly matched.
Further reading - Napped Fabric, What is Nap in Sewing
The key and most visible areas you want to match when sewing stripes are:
- Any back or front seams
- Side seams
- Sleeves if possible
- Underarms for long sleeve garments
In the below example I matched the pieces at the hems and then matched the sleeve from the bottom of the armhole at the front.
Step 4 - Sewing Stripes
Pin with pins going down the seams (vertical pinning). Open up the pinned seam and do a double-check that the stripes are matching. You can then change the pins to a horizontal position if necessary.
Basting is a very good idea to prevent the stripes from slipping and ease the sewing process. Stretch fabrics and slippery fabrics like silk, in particular, tend to move around as you sew if not securely pinned or basted. Double-sided fabric sticky tape can help with holding the stripes in position while you sew.
Match and sew the front and center back openings with stripes first. It is difficult to match stripes when setting in sleeves and other aspects of the garment so work with the most visual sections first.
A walking foot lifts as it sews and prevents the fabric from moving thus making sewing stripes much fore accurate.
More Ideas for Sewing Stripes
- PIPING - Stripes make interesting inserts, piping, and accessories. Either cut straight across the stripes or have them on the diagonal bias.
- FLATTER -Take care when using bold stripes across the hip area as it is not flattering on all body shapes. I'm very pear-shaped, so try and avoid this. As a general rule, stripes should go down the body to be the most flattering.
- NAP - Follow the ‘without nap’ guidelines on the pattern for your stripes pattern layout. Follow ‘with nap’ for uneven stripes on the fabric.
- UNEVEN STRIPES - If you have stripes with multiple widths, select a dominant stripe and use it as the center point. The rest of the stripe pattern will follow round in the garment.
- DIRECTIONS - Place your stripes in different directions to get different effects. You may color block your design, so some stripes go in one direction, and some are going in another direction. Stripes can even be cut on the bias but be aware that this introduces some stretch into your pattern.
Sewing Stripes - In Conclusion
There is a lot to take into account to earn your stripes. However, you don’t have to be caught up in boring uniformity when sewing stripes! It is possible to be rebellious, throw caution to the wind and sew up your striped fabric in an easy come easy go fashion. Just dare to be different and choose the style and fabric to suit the end result you are aiming for.