How to Sew a Welt Pocket | Single, Double, Flap

Learn how to sew welt pockets. A welt pocket is a tailored, bound pocket found mostly on men’s jackets or blazers. It is also known as a bound pocket because it has a fabric binding to neaten the edges of the pocket opening.  They are often used to display a man’s handkerchief on a smart suit. This tutorial will guide you through sewing a welt pocket step by step with detailed photos to help.

What is a Welt Pocket?

A welt pocket is a type of pocket often found in men’s jackets, vests, trousers or cargo pants. The pocket part of the welt pocket is attached to the inside of the garment, and the welt is the binding seen on the outside. Welt pockets can be from a matching fabric for an invisible look or a contrasting fabric for an attractive pop of color.

How to Sew a Welt Pocket, Step by Step Instructions

Making a welt pocket is an easier project to complete than you may think. Take it step by step and follow the below welt pocket tutorial. This is a simplified version of how to sew welt pockets that will give you great results every time.

Supplies for Making a Welt Pocket

Here is what you need to make a welt pocket:

• Fabric for the pocket bag and welt part of the pocket. These may be the same as the outside of the garment or different.
• Sewing supplies including a sewing machine, thread, needle, ruler, scissors and pins.
• Fusible interfacing to reinforce the pocket.
• Marking tools such as chalk or removable marker.

Step 1 – Cut the Pocket Bag and Welt

Follow your pattern and get all the pattern pieces for the pocket ready.  This includes the pocket bag (the part that makes the actual pocket), the welt pocket piece, and interfacing.

Step 2 – Transfer Markings

Transfer the welt pocket markings onto the front of the garment. Make the marking on both the front and back of the garment. 

If you are making your own pattern – On both pieces of interfacing, draw 2 parallel lines 6 inches (15cm) long and 1 inch (2.5cm) apart. If you wish to have a narrower welt pocket you can make the lines closer.

Step 3 – Fuse the Interfacing

1. Fuse the interfacing in the desired pocket placement on the WRONG side of the garment.

2. Fuse the interfacing on the WRONG side of one of the pouch pieces leaving a 1 1/2 inch (4cm) gap at the top. This is the piece of fabric that will show on the outside.

Step 4 – Stitch the Welt Pocket

1. Pin the pouch to the FRONT of the garment with right sides together, matching the dots you marked as the placement markings. The lines on the interfacing should match up.

The easiest way to check this is to put a pin through each end and make sure everything is aligned.

2. On the wrong side of the fabric, machine stitch only the top and bottom marked lines stopping exactly at the marked dots. These are the long edges of the welt.
3. Backstitch to finish securely.

Step 6 – Cut the Welt Pocket

1. Draw a triangle at each end and a line through the center. The triangle should finish about 1/2 inch (12mm) from the end of the stitching.
2. Cut a slit through both layers of fabric between the two stitching lines of the welt. Use a rotary cutter for a clean cut if you have one. 
3. Use small sharp scissors to cut a Y shape into the corners at both ends of the slit. Do not cut into the actual stitching.

4. Press the cut seam allowance open at the top and the bottom of the welt.  Press all the way to the ends of the cut Y shape.

Step 6 – Turn and Press

1. Turn the garment to the wrong side and reach through the opening to pull the pouch rectangle through the garment to the wrong side.
2. Press the rectangle flat. 
3. Gently pull the corners of the welt fabric until it makes a rectangular opening. Check your trimming inside if you feel the pocket is not lying correctly.

Step 8 – Fold the Pocket

1. Grab the edges of the pouch a couple of inches down and pinch it into a fold.
2. Bring this fold up to the top of the welt opening.
3. Press the folded edge. There should just be a tiny slit visible.

Step 8 – Stitch the Triangle

1. Open up the sides of the garment to reveal the little triangles of the welt piece.
2. Stitch the triangle to the pouch as close to the garment as possible backstitching to secure the ends. 

This will hold the fold of fabric in place, leaving nothing visible on the outside of the garment.

Step 9 – Pocket Bag

1. Flip the garment over and topstitch through all layers along the sides and bottom.

This is how the back now looks. It is best to use a matching bobbin to your pouch color, and that way, you won’t notice the stitching.

2. Cut down your second pouch piece so it is the same size as the red pocket lining piece. Put them right sides together.

3. Stitch around the pouch pieces (top, bottom and sides of thepocket bag). You will just be stitching through the pouch and not through the garment front. They are quite easy to separate from the garment.

4. Flip your garment to the right side and topstitch across the top edge.

How to Sew Differnent Types of Welt Pocket

You have made a welt pocket! It will look very professional from the front, and the pocket bag is neatly contained on the inside of the garment on the wrong side. This is the basic welt pocket. The following variations will give you other ideas.

1. Single Welt Pocket

The singe welt pocket is the basic welt pocket made from the same fabric as the garment. The bonded edges of the pocket using the welt fabric are known as the lips of the pocket. A single welt pocket has one side or lip of the pocket meeting the other side of the bonded edge. The initial sewing is the same for both a single and a double welt. 

2. Double Welt Pocket

The double welt pocket is stitched in the same way as the single, but both edges or lips are pulled forward to meet in the middle of the pocket window.  Two bonded edges show on the front side of the double welt pocket.

2. Welt Pocket with a Flap

1. Firstly you prepare the flap according to your pattern. 
2. The length of the flap needs to be the same as the finished welt pocket. Cut two pieces per flap and put interfacing on one of them. If you wish to have a buttonhole or loop to close the flap, this step must be done before inserting the flap. It is easier to work on the flap before it is inserted into the pocket.
3. Follow the directions to make the welt pocket. The flap is attached between the upper welt and the pocket bag. This step is done before attaching the pocket bag.
4. Attach the pocket bag and finish off the pocket on the front with a button to close the flap.

3. Decorative Welt Pockets

Welt pockets do not have to be rectangular or straight. A scalloped or shaped edge can be sewn as a decorative edge. In this case, the welt needs to be sewn in two pieces. The edge can not be folded in order to get a decorative edge.

4. Slanted Welt Pocket

A welt pocket can be set at a slant, especially in a jacket like the bomber jacket worn by pilots. The welt is set at a slant, and this makes it easier to slip hands into the pocket. It may also be set into the seam as part of the seam before it is finished.

5. Zip Welt Pocket

The concept of a welt pocket lends itself to set in a short zip to close the pocket with the decorative welt on the outside to neaten the zip. The pocket pouch is attached to the inside to neaten the pocket, and the zip does the closure trick. Zip welt pockets are useful and, at the same time, make a fashion statement.

In Conclusion

The welt pocket needs some practice, and trying a sample on a piece of scrap fabric will help. It is challenging, but once you have mastered how to sew welt pockets, you will be grateful you tried them out.

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