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Home » Sewing » Sewing Techniques

Welt Pocket Tutorial - Easy & Simplified

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Learn how to sew welt pockets. A welt pocket is a tailored, bound pocket found mostly on men’s jackets or blazers. It is also known as a bound pocket because it has a fabric binding to neaten the edges of the pocket opening.  The welt pocket is often used to display the man’s handkerchief on a smart suit.  The pockets lie flat and are finished with the welt, which is the binding applied to the raw edge of the cut pocket. 

Welt Pocket Tutorial, How to Sew Welt Pockets
Welt Pocket Tutorial, How to Sew Welt Pockets

Welt Pocket Tutorial

What is a Welt Pocket?

A welt pocket is a type of pocket often found in men's jackets, vests, trousers or cargo pants. The pocket part of the welt pocket is attached to the inside of the garment, and the welt is the binding seen on the outside. Welt pockets can be from a matching fabric for an invisible look or a contrasting fabric for an attractive pop of color.

Supplies for Making a Welt Pocket

Here is what you need to make a welt pocket:

  • Fabric for the pocket bag and welt part of the pocket. These may be the same as the outside of the garment or different.
  • Sewing supplies including a sewing machine, thread, needle, ruler, scissors and pins.
  • Fusible interfacing to reinforce the pocket.
  • Marking tools such as chalk or removable marker.

How to Sew a Welt Pocket, Step by Step Instructions

Following specific steps to complete the pocket makes it an easier project to complete than you may think. Take it step by step and follow the below welt pocket tutorial. This is a simplified version of how to sew welt pockets that will give you great results every time.

Step 1 - Cut the Pocket Bag and Welt

Follow your pattern and get all the pattern pieces for the pocket ready.  This includes the pocket bag (the part that makes the actual pocket), the welt pocket piece, and interfacing.

Making your Own Welt Pocket Pattern

If your pattern didn't come with a welt pocket, here is some information to help you draft your own. These instructions are for a 6 inch (15cm) pocket with a 1 inch (2.5cm) welt.

  • Interfacing - Cut interfacing 2 inches (5cm) in width by 8 inches long (20cm). The interfacing should be 2 inches longer than your finished pocket. One is for the pocket facing and the other is for the garment facing.
  • Pocket Pouch - Cut 2 pieces of fabric 8 inches x 8 inches (20x20xm). The pouch should be at least 2 inches wider than the finished pocket. The finished height will be around 3 inches shorter than you cut. One of these pocket pouch pieces will show on the outside, so you may want it to match your garment. I used a contrasting red. The other pocket pouch piece will be on the inside and not easily visible. I used pink chambray.

Step 2 - Transfer Markings

Transfer the welt pocket markings onto the front of the garment. Make the marking on both the front and back of the garment. 

If you are making your own pattern - On both pieces of interfacing, draw 2 parallel lines 6 inches (15cm) long and 1 inch (2.5cm) apart. If you wish to have a narrower welt pocket you can make the lines closer.

Step 3 - Fuse the Interfacing

  1. Fuse the interfacing in the desired pocket placement on the WRONG side of the garment.
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Fuse Interfacing
Fuse Interfacing on Welt Placement
  1. Fuse the interfacing on the WRONG side of one of the pouch pieces leaving a 1 ½ inch (4cm) gap at the top. This is the piece of fabric that will show on the outside.
How to Sew Welt Pocket - Fuse Interfacing
How to Sew a Welt Pocket - Fuse Interfacing

Step 4 - Stitch the Welt Pocket

  1. Pin the pouch to the FRONT of the garment with right sides together, matching the dots you marked as the placement markings. The lines on the interfacing should match up.

The easiest way to check this is to put a pin through each end and make sure everything is aligned.

Match Markings on the Welt Pocket
Match Markings on the Welt Pocket
  1. On the wrong side of the fabric, machine stitch only the top and bottom marked lines stopping exactly at the marked dots. These are the long edges of the welt.
  2. Backstitch to finish securely.
Stitch the Lines on the Welt Pocket
Stitch the Lines on the Welt Pocket

Step 6 - Cut the Welt

  1. Draw a triangle at each end and a line through the center. The triangle should finish about ½ inch (12mm) from the end of the stitching.
  2. Cut a slit through both layers of fabric between the two stitching lines of the welt. Use a rotary cutter for a clean cut if you have one. 
  3. Use small sharp scissors to cut a Y shape into the corners at both ends of the slit. Do not cut into the actual stitching.
Cut the Center of the Welt Pocket
Cut the Center of the Welt Pocket
  1. Press the cut seam allowance open at the top and the bottom of the welt.  Press all the way to the ends of the cut Y shape.
Press the Welt Pocket Opening
Press the Welt Pocket Opening

Step 6 - Turn and Press

  1. Turn the garment to the wrong side and reach through the opening to pull the pouch rectangle through the garment to the wrong side.
  2. Press the rectangle flat. 
  3. Gently pull the corners of the welt fabric until it makes a rectangular opening. Check your trimming inside if you feel the pocket is not lying correctly.
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Press
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Press

Step 8 - Fold the Pocket

  1. Grab the edges of the pouch a couple of inches down and pinch it into a fold.
  2. Bring this fold up to the top of the welt opening.
  3. Press the folded edge. There should just be a tiny slit visible.
Press the Welt Pocket Fold
Press the Welt Pocket Fold

Step 8 - Stitch the Triangle

  1. Open up the sides of the garment to reveal the little triangles of the welt piece.
  2. Stitch the triangle to the pouch as close to the garment as possible backstitching to secure the ends. 

This will hold the fold of fabric in place, leaving nothing visible on the outside of the garment.

How to Sew Welt Pockets
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Stitch the Fold

Step 9 - Pocket Bag

  1. Flip the garment over and topstitch through all layers along the sides and bottom.
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Topstitch
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Topstitch

This is how the back now looks. It is best to use a matching bobbin to your pouch color, and that way, you won't notice the stitching.

How to Sew Welt Pockets
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Back View
  1. Cut down your second pouch piece so it is the same size as the red pocket lining piece. Put them right sides together.
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Match the Fabric
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Match the Fabric
  1. Stitch around the pouch pieces (top, bottom and sides of thepocket bag). You will just be stitching through the pouch and not through the garment front. They are quite easy to separate from the garment.
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Stitch
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Stitch
  1. Flip your garment to the right side and topstitch across the top edge.
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Topstitch
How to Sew Welt Pockets - Topstitch

Types of Welt Pocket

You have made a welt pocket! It will look very professional from the front, and the pocket bag is neatly contained on the inside of the garment on the wrong side. This is the basic welt pocket. The following variations will give you other ideas.

Welt Pocket Variations
Welt Pocket Variations

1. Single Welt Pocket

The singe welt pocket is the basic welt pocket made from the same fabric as the garment. The bonded edges of the pocket using the welt fabric are known as the lips of the pocket. A single welt pocket has one side or lip of the pocket meeting the other side of the bonded edge. The initial sewing is the same for both a single and a double welt. 

2. Double Welt Pocket

The double welt pocket is stitched in the same way as the single, but both edges or lips are pulled forward to meet in the middle of the pocket window.  Two bonded edges show on the front side of the double welt pocket.

2. Welt Pocket with a Flap

  1. Firstly you prepare the flap according to your pattern. 
  2. The length of the flap needs to be the same as the finished welt pocket. Cut two pieces per flap and put interfacing on one of them. If you wish to have a buttonhole or loop to close the flap, this step must be done before inserting the flap. It is easier to work on the flap before it is inserted into the pocket.
  3. Follow the directions to make the welt pocket. The flap is attached between the upper welt and the pocket bag. This step is done before attaching the pocket bag.
  4. Attach the pocket bag and finish off the pocket on the front with a button to close the flap.

3. Decorative Welt Pockets

Welt pockets do not have to be rectangular or straight. A scalloped or shaped edge can be sewn as a decorative edge. In this case, the welt needs to be sewn in two pieces. The edge can not be folded in order to get a decorative edge.

4. Slanted Welt Pocket

A welt pocket can be set at a slant, especially in a jacket like the bomber jacket worn by pilots. The welt is set at a slant, and this makes it easier to slip hands into the pocket. It may also be set into the seam as part of the seam before it is finished.

5. Zip Welt Pocket

The concept of a welt pocket lends itself to set in a short zip to close the pocket with the decorative welt on the outside to neaten the zip. The pocket pouch is attached to the inside to neaten the pocket, and the zip does the closure trick. Zip welt pockets are useful and, at the same time, make a fashion statement.

The Welt Pocket - In Conclusion

The welt pocket needs some practice, and trying a sample on a piece of scrap fabric will help. It is challenging, but once you have mastered how to sew welt pockets, you will be grateful you tried them out.

More Pocket Articles

  • Inseam Pockets – Side Pocket Tutorial & Pattern
  • Types of Pockets
  • How to Sew a Pocket
  • Zipper Pocket
how to sew welt pockets

How to Sew Welt Pockets

Easy welt pocket tutorial for beginners, step by step instructions.
4.9/5 - (8 votes)
Print Pin
Difficulty: Easy Beginner
Keyword: Sewing
Total Time: 14 minutes minutes

Tools

  • Sewing Basics

Materials

  • Fabric

Instructions

  • On both pieces of interfacing, draw 2 parallel lines 6 inches (15cm) long and 1 inch (2.5cm) apart. Fuse the interfacing in the desired position the WRONG side of the garment. Fuse the interfacing on the WRONG side of one of the pouch pieces leaving a 1 ½ inch (4cm) gap at the top. Pin the pouch to the FRONT of the garment with right sides together, matching the dots you marked as the placement markings. The lines on the interfacing should match up.
    How to Sew Welt Pockets
  • Machine stitch only the top and bottom marked lines stopping exactly at the marked dots.  Backstitch to finish securely.
  • Draw a triangle at each end and a line through the center. The triangle should finish about ½ inch (12mm) from the end of the stitching. Cut a slit through both layers of fabric between the two stitching lines of the welt. Press the cut seam allowance open at the top and the bottom of the welt.  Press all the way to the ends of the cut Y shape.
    Welt Pocket
  • Turn the garment to the wrong side and reach through the opening to pull the pouch rectangle through the garment to the wrong side. Press the rectangle flat.  Gently pull the corners of the welt fabric until it makes a rectangular opening.
    How to Sew Welt Pockets
  • Grab the edges of the pouch a couple of inches down and pinch it into a fold. Bring this fold up to the top edge of the rectangular hole. Press it down. There should just be a tiny slit visible. Open up the sides of the garment to reveal the triangles. Stitch the triangle to the pouch as close to the garment as possible backstitching to secure the ends.
    Welt Pocket
  • Flip the garment over and topstitch through all layers along the sides and bottom.
    Welt Pocket
  • Cut down your second pouch piece so it is the same size as the red pouch piece. Put them right sides together. Stitch around the pouch pieces. 
    Welt Pocket
  • Flip your garment to the right side and topstitch across the top edge.
    welt pocket
4.9/5 - (8 votes)

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