Inseam Pockets - Side Pocket Tutorial & Pattern

Inseam pockets are hidden in the side seams of garments and can add a functional and fun feeling to any pattern. They are easy to add even when the sewing pattern doesn't have it included. Even beginner sewers can create side inseam pockets with ease. Pockets give you somewhere to put your hands and feel ever so confident and stylish.

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What are Inseam Pockets?

Inseam pockets are medium-sized pockets hidden in the side seams of dresses, pants and skirts. They are not obvious unless you put your hands inside them making them a sleek and flattering option for all garments. Inseam pockets are large enough to put your hands inside, making them perfect for hiding a tissue, small purse or phone.

Inseam Pockets Pattern

You can make your own pattern by tracing around your hand and then adding seam allowance or here is one you can print.

>>>>Download inseam pocket pattern

Don't forget to measure the test square is correct and if you need printing help, read my article on how to print PDF patterns.

Shop the Dress Pattern

The pattern featured here is from the Treasurie sewing pattern shop. It actually includes inseam pockets and comes with 2 great options.

Inseam Pockets Supplies Needed

A pocket pattern - you can make your own or download the Treasurie inseam pockets pattern.
Sewing thread, pins, machine and basic supplies
Matching fabric to your garment. If you are sewing thick fabric, for example, wool, you can use a thin pocket fabric in a matching color to reduce bulk.

I have used a contrasting fabric so you can see the side pockets clearly, most of the time these pockets are designed with a matching pocket color. Alternatively, using a contrast color pocket can add a cute pop of color that is exposed when you move or put your hands inside.

For this tutorial, I have photographed the pocket attached to a skirt, but this method works exactly the same for pants, shorts or dresses. Any side seam will do!

How to Sew Inseam Pockets

Step 1 - Prewash and Cutting

Pre-washing your fabric is important since if the pocket shrinks more than the outside garment, you will end up with a puckered mess after the first wash. Also, check for color bleeding as this can also ruin all your hard work.

Seam allowances of ½ inch (12mm) are included in my downloadable inseam pocket pattern. Add more or less if you need to.

When cutting the pockets, make sure you are cutting the fabric on a fold so that you end up with 2 pockets a mirror image of each other. Alternatively, if you are cutting them separately from scrap fabric, flip the paper pattern over to cut the second one.

How Many Pieces to Cut - My pocket pattern says cut 4 assuming you are going to put the pockets on either side of your garment. If you only want to put the inseam pockets on one side, then you will only need to cut 2 pocket pieces.

Step 2 - Placement

Most patterns will indicate where to add the inseam pockets, but if it doesn't you will need to work it out yourself. Try or hold up your half-made garment and determine the position just on or below your hip where it will feel comfortable.

Mark the top of the pocket placement on both the front and back of the skirt so you can match them up evenly.

Step 3 - Finishing

To prevent having to serger or finish awkward angles, it is easiest to serger the pocket edges now. Finish the rounded part of the pocket keeping the straight edge unfinished for now.

Of course, a serger is easiest, but you can also use a zig-zag stitch or pinking shears. Bias tape is also an option but it can get a little bulky and show on the outside of garments made from thinner fabrics.

Further Reading: Seam finishes

Inseam Pocket Finishing — Inseam Pockets Finishing

Step 4 - Join the Inseam Pockets

With right sides together, stitch a pocket to the front of the skirt with the seam allowance. Do not stitch beyond the seam allowance at the top and bottom. Match the top of the pocket to the top of the mark you have made. Some patterns will have notches for the side seam and pocket that you will match up.

If my seam allowance is ½ inch (12mm), then stitch the seam at ½ inch (1.2cm). Stop at the top and bottom ½ inch from the edge.

Step 5 - Finish the Seam

Finish all the way down the side seam of the skirt (catches in the pocket edge). The best way is with a zig-zag, serger or pinking shears. Finishing the edge now it makes your sewing look neater and is less awkward later.

Step 6 - Press Open

Press the pocket open. Optionally, topstitch along the seam on the pocket, once again stopping ½ inch (12mm) from the top and bottom. I usually don't topstitch but if you have a bulky fabric that won't stay open, this helps the pocket stay flat.

Step 7 - Joining the Pockets

Open up the pockets. With right sides together, stitch the front and back of the skirts together at the side seam and all around the pocket. Take care to leave the pocket opening open.

Stitch the Front and Back Inseam Pockets

Step 8 - Press Towards Front

Press the pocket towards the front of the skirt. If you press the side seams forward, you won't need to clip the corners of the pockets meaning there is no weak points that can fray.