INVISIBLE STITCH (Ladder Stitch) Made Easy

The invisible stitch (ladder stitch) is an important technique to learn to create invisible closures for gaps in seams. It is used to sew toys, ripped seams, and in clothing constructions to close gaps. An invisible hand stitch is often called several different names, including ladder stitch, slip stitch, and even blind stitch. These all refer to the same thing, which is a stitch that closes seams and is invisible or nearly invisible when finished.

Invisible Stitch (Ladder Stitch) Tutorial

What is Invisible Stitch?

An invisible stitch is a type of hand stitch, also known as a slip stitch or blind stitch, that is a sewing technique used to join fabric together without the thread being visible in the finished item. This stitch is used for repairing seams, closing cushions and toys, and attaching linings. Only a few threads of fabric are picked up at a time so that the seam becomes invisible.

What is an Invisible Stitch Used For?

Invisible stitch or ladder stitch can be used to solve many common problems and is particularly useful in mending. It can be used for:

• SOFT TOYS - An invisible stitch is commonly used for stuffed toy sewing patterns. Even if you aren’t sewing a toy pattern from scratch you may have ended up here looking for a way to repair your child’s beloved teddy or bunny rabbit toy which has been loved to the point it is falling apart.
• MENDING - It is extremely useful for mending a ripped seam and closing gaps in clothing and hats before topstitching.
• PILLOWS - The ladder stitch is also a great invisible stitch to close a pillow.

For invisible HEMS, see my article on hemming stitch

Supplies for Invisible Stitch

Most of these sewing supplies for sewing an invisible stitch you should already have.

1. Needle: A sharp hand-sewing needle appropriate for your fabric.
2. Thread: Thread in a matching color to the fabric you are sewing. Polyester or cotton-covered polyester is commonly used.
3. Fabric: The material you will be sewing. The stitch is most effective on fabrics that aren’t too thick or heavy.
4. Scissors: For cutting your thread cleanly.
5. Pins or Clips: To hold the fabric in place while you sew.
6. Thimble: To protect your finger when pushing the needle through the fabric (optional but recommended for thicker fabrics).
7. Seam Ripper: Useful for undoing stitches if you make a mistake.

How to Do an Invisible Stitch by Hand (How to Do Ladder Stitch)

Preparation

Now before you start, make sure you have great lighting and your best pair of reading glasses for a truly invisible ladder stitch.

Start by threading the needle with either a single thread or double thread and knot the end. I have used a contrast thread for this tutorial but you will want to use a matching one to create a truly invisible stitch.

Use fine but good quality thread as you will be doing some gentle pulling and you don't want the thread to break halfway through your job. 

Step 1 - Starting Invisible Stitch

Insert the needle up through the center opening on the far right, up through the crease, or fold to the top. This will hide the knot inside your project.

Invisible stitch is worked from right to left.

You will notice the direction I am sewing is right to left. I'm right-handed, so this will be the correct direction for most of you. If you are left-handed, you may find it easier to reverse the direction of stitches.

Step 2 - First Invisible Stitches

Now take a tiny stitch along the fold of the fabric on the opposite side of the opening. This is from point 2 to point 3 in the diagram below. Notice how (2) is in the folded fabric or the seam allowance and directly across from point (1).

The stitches in my tutorial are about ¼ inch (6mm) in length so you could see how to do an invisible stitch. You will want to make yours at most ⅛ inch (3mm). The smaller your stitches the more it will blend into your seam with minimal gaps.

Pass the needle across to the original side and along the fold again from point 4 to point 5.

Step 3 - Repeat and Pull

Continue in the same pattern from side to side.

This diagram will help you visualize the motion of stitching across. See how you are passing from one side to the next and hiding the stitches in the fold of the seam.

You can pull each stitch tight as you go or pull the stitches closed after you get to the end. I prefer to take a few stitches and then pull and then stitch again. Don't leave it too long before you pull as the thread can sometimes get tangled.

If you are sewing a toy or cushion with stuffing inside, just make sure the stuffing fibers are not poking out the holes. You will need to keep pushing the stuffing back inside as you go.

You can see from the photo how it got its name ladder stitch (slip stitch) - the stitches going across look a little like ladder rungs.

Step 4 - Knot Off and Finish

When you get to the end, knot the thread off as you would normally. If you are a beginner, this is done by leaving a loop in the last stitch and then putting the needle back through the loop and pulling tight.

Don't cut the thread just yet as we want to hide the ends.

Pass the thread through the opening and into the item, coming up a short distance away. Cut off the thread.

If you pull a little before you cut, the thread will pull back inside when released, hiding the evidence of the ends.

Here I have used a ladder stitch to close the legs on the Rachel Toy Pattern. See how it is a great stitch for toys, as the closure is almost invisible.

Tips for Sewing an Invisible Stitch

Here are some extra tips for making your invisible stitch truly invisible.

1. Use Matching Thread

Choose a thread that closely matches the color of your fabric to make the stitch even more invisible. The thread should be strong since you will need to pull the stitches tight. Don’t use too long a length of thread, as it's more likely to get tangled. Around 18-24 inches is usually sufficient.

2. Use Small Stitches

Start by hiding the knot inside the fold of the fabric so it won't be visible. When stitching, try to keep the stitches close enough to hold the fabric securely but not so close that they show or pucker the fabric.

Keep a consistent, gentle tension on your thread to avoid puckering or gathering the fabric. Pick up only a few threads from each side of the fabric with your needle. The less fabric you catch, the less visible the stitch will be.

After a few stitches, give a light pull to make sure they disappear into the fabric.

3. Press After Stitching

For some fabrics, a gentle press with an iron can help to further blend the stitches into the fabric. This can also disguise any slight puckering.

Remember, like any other skill, it takes practice to get good at sewing an invisible stitch. So don't be discouraged if your first few attempts aren't perfect. With time and patience, you’ll improve your technique.

Invisible Stitch Hem By Machine

If you are looking to sew an invisible stitch on a sewing machine for the hems of dresses, skirts, or trousers, then most often, a blind hem is used.

A blind hem can be sewn on your regular sewing machine and is nearly invisible on the right side when you use a matching thread color. It can be sewn with a specialty blind hem foot that has an edge guide that helps you sew straight or a regular foot if you have a good eye.

I have a full tutorial on how to sew a blind hem that will show you step by step how to create this invisible hemstitch.

Here you can see how the back and front of the blind stitch hem look.

Invisible Stitch Hem By Hand

If you are looking for stitches for an invisible hem, read my article on hemming stitch. The slip stitch, catch stitch, blind hem stitch, narrow rolled hem and whip stitch will all be almost invisible on the outside of a pair of pants or a skirt hem. It can also be used to hem curtains.

Invisible Stitch Projects

If sewing a pillow and closing it with an invisible stitch sounded fun then here are a few of my free tutorials to keep you busy.

• Star Pillow
• Neck Pillow
• Diy Pincushion

More Hand Stitching

• 6 Basic Hand Stitches
• Blanket Stitch
• Running Stitch
• How to Sew a Seam by Hand – Running Stitch and Backstitch
• How to Whip Stitch
• Backstitch
• How to do Ladder Stitch (Slip Stitch, Invisible Stitch)