Machine sewing is a fast and efficient way to stitch together fabric pieces with the use of a sewing machine. This article will deal with all aspects of machine sewing techniques, from its definition to where to start and lots of project ideas.
Contents
- What is Machine Sewing Techniques?
- Machine Sewing Techniques Step by Step for Beginners
- Machine Sewing Techniques with a Serger
- More Machine Sewing Techniques
- Machine Sewing Techniques of Troubleshooting
- Machine Sewing Techniques for Repairs
- 20 Easy Machine Sewing Projects
- Making Money with Machine Sewing
- Machine Sewing Techniques - In Conclusion
What is Machine Sewing Techniques?
Machine sewing techniques are the art of using a sewing machine to stitch together pieces of fabric to make garments, home decor, and much more. It is a faster, more efficient, and stronger way to sew than traditional hand sewing.
Machine sewing uses an upper and lower thread which lock together to form an evenly spaced, strong line of stitching. Most sewing machines allow you to vary the width and length of the stitching for different purposes and looks.
What is the Sewing Machine Used For?
Sewing machines are used to stitch fabric together with a needle and thread. It is a fast way of sewing several layers of fabric together. Read more about the history of the sewing machine.
Difference between Hand Sewing and Machine Sewing Techniques
Hand sewing is done with a needle and thread by hand. It is a traditional method that is still used today in the form of embroidery and as an alternative to using a sewing machine.
There are certain situations where, even if you have a sewing machine, it may be preferable to use hand stitching. The use of hand-gathering is a perfect example. For really fine fabrics, hand gathering is more controllable and gives a better effect.
Types of Sewing Machines for Home Use
The main types of sewing machines used for home use are mechanical or computerized. All use a foot pedal for speed control and many these days have a 25-year warranty and automatic needle threader.
- Modern mechanical sewing machines are still powered by electricity but don't have computerized internal functions. The stitches are varied by a dial or slider, and there are usually fewer selections than on a computerized sewing machine. Some will have built-in stitches. Mechanical machines are known for their simplicity and durability. I mainly use a mechanical Janome machine I've had for years. It just keeps going!
- Computerized sewing machines have an LCD panel where you can change the settings and stitches. The computerized machine category also includes many quilting machines and embroidery machines.
- Comparison: As a general rule, a mechanical sewing machine is better for heavier use and tends to last longer as there are no electronics to go wrong. Computerized machines have many more functions, including decorative stitches, monogramming, and embroidery.
Sergers: (Overlocker or overlock machines) Another type of sewing machine that many home sewers have is a serger or overlocker. These machines are supplementary to your main sewing machine, and their purpose is to neatly and professionally finish the side seams of items. They cleanly cut the edge and finish it all in one motion. Read more about what a serger vs sewing machine does.
Mini Sewing Machine: These are cheap but not really suitable for everyday use. They are better suited for smaller repairs.
Industrial Sewing Machines: These are heavy metal sewing machines designed for professional sewing, They are workhorses designed to work every day over heavy materials. An industrial machine would normally be too much for a home sewer.
Handheld Sewing Machine: These machines can run on battery or electricity and, as the name suggests, can be held in the hand. While perfect for repairs when traveling, they are not used to sew garments or use them every day. Read more about handheld sewing machines.
Best Machine Sewing Brands
When buying a new or used sewing machine, look for a quality brand. Read more about popular sewing machine brands and buying a used sewing machine.
Here are the best-known and top brands in alphabetical order:
- Babylock
- Bernina
- Brother
- Elna
- Husqvarna Viking
- Jaguar
- Janome
- Juki
- Singer
- Pfaff
- Toyota
I've always had Janome machines, but you'll find most sewers have a favorite. You can't go too wrong with any of the above brands. Choose a machine that fits your budget and has the functions you need. One-step buttonholes functions are also extremely useful.
You can purchase machines in-store as well as online direct from the manufacturers or from Amazon and Ebay.
Read more about the best sewing machines for beginners for more specific suggestions. While a new machine is often preferable, a used machine may suit your budget better. Just plug it in and test its sewing on a piece of scrap fabric before you hand over your money.
Machine Sewing Techniques Step by Step for Beginners
The main steps of machine sewing techniques are
- Prewashing fabric
- Gathering supplies
- Select the machine settings
- Start sewing
- Finish the seams
Here are the 5 steps in more detail:
1. Prewash Your Fabric
Pre-washing fabric is an admittedly boring but certainly necessary part of machine sewing techniques. This will shrink the fabric and ensure the colors are colorfast. Wash the fabric as you intend to launder the final project, and then iron it on the recommended heat settings.
Before you start sewing, always check you are up on your sewing safety knowledge. Take care with electrical items, sharp instruments, and hot irons. Also, be aware of keeping away children and pets.
2. Gather Your Machine Sewing Tools
The first thing to do before machine sewing is to gather your sewing tools. Tools can be purchased in kits, and you really don't need a lot when you are just starting.
Here are some of the basic tools you will need:
- Marking Tools - The cheapest and easiest way to mark fabric is often to just use some tailor's chalk. This chalk can come in an easy-to-use and sharpen pencil and can be brushed off when you no longer need the marks.
- Cutting Tools - You really can't start machine sewing until you have a pair of fabric shears. Cheap scissors can be a useful addition to cutting paper and protecting your more expensive fabric shears.
- Measuring Tools - At a minimum, you will need a ruler and tape measure to do machine sewing, but there are a few fancier rulers you will probably want to add to your sewing kit over time. I use quilting rulers a lot, even for regular machine sewing.
- Sewing Machine Needles - Did you know there are different thicknesses and types of sewing needles? Stretch fabric, for example, needs to be sewn with a stretch or jersey needle to prevent holes and skipped stitches. Match the right needle to your project and fabric type for the best results.
- Sewing Machine Feet - Most sewing projects will use your all-purpose or universal presser foot, but having a few extra presser feet can save a lot of time and give professional results.
- Pressing Tools - An iron and ironing board is necessary for machine sewing to press seams and hems before or after sewing. The correct pressing for sewing technique makes all the difference if you want professional-looking projects.
3. Thread and Set the Machine for Sewing
Thread the Machine
Before you can start learning machine sewing techniques, you will need to thread the sewing machine and wind the bobbin. Your machine will have an upper thread spool and a lower bobbin thread.
This process should be outlined in your sewing manual, or you can click on the preceding links for more information. Nearly all sewing machines thread in a very similar fashion.
Set the Sewing Stitches
The most common machine sewing stitches are the zig-zag stitch and the straight stitch. A straight stitch is usually used for sewing seams and hems, while the zig-zag stitch is used for finishing seams and for decorative sewing.
In addition, most machines have a selection of decorative stitches to choose from. These stitches are probably not ones you will use for everyday sewing but rather to decorate finished products. Your machine may have one or more buttonhole stitches.
Adjust the stitch length for your project. The majority of machines have a stitch regulator to adjust the length in millimeters from 0 to 4.
Here are some common straight stitch lengths for different fabric types and purposes.
Check Machine Sewing Tension
Once you have set the stitch type, width, and length, you will need to sew a test swatch to determine if the sewing machine tension is correct.
The upper and lower threads should be perfectly balanced and will need to be adjusted if there are uneven or loose stitches on either side.
4. Start Machine Sewing
This article deals with machine sewing techniques. If you need advice on cutting or marking your sewing fabric, read my articles on:
Machine Sewing Technique #1 - Sewing Straight Seams
Learning how to sew a seam is one of the first things you will do as a beginner at machine sewing. You can practice sewing straight lines on a couple of scraps of fabric.
Here is how to sew a simple straight seam:
- Use two scraps of fabric and put them right sides together, matching the raw edges.
- Pin or baste the edge to hold it in place
- Refer to the seam allowance in the pattern instructions to determine how far from the edge you will sew.
- Place the fabric under the machine foot that distance and hold the threads at the back while you slowly start sewing. The average stitch length to set is 2.5. The stitch width for any straight stitching will be zero.
- Open the seam and press.
There are many other types of seams, including:
- French Seams - These seams are used for sheer fabrics and projects where you need a durable enclosed seam. They are often used for sewing pillowcases as they can withstand endless washes.
- Flat-Felled Seam - This is a flat seam used for durability in medium-weight fabrics. As the seam is on the outside, it is considered extremely comfortable to wear.
- Double Stitched Seam - Double stitching a seam adds strength and durability to seams. It also has the added bonus of preventing fraying.
- Superimposed Seams - These seams are overlapped
- Mock French Seams - Can also be known as a fake French Seam and is a simpler version of a real French seam.
- Slot Seams -These decorative seams are often used for a hint of color that shows through underneath.
- Lapped Seams - These are suitable for bulky fabrics that do not fray.
- Welt Seams - These seams are strong and durable and have a line of stitching that shows on the outside.
- Serged Seams - Serged seams are sewn with a serger. They serve the dual purpose of stitching the seam and finishing it at the same time.
- Closed Seams - Closed seams are called such as the raw edges are enclosed.
- Open Seams - Open seams are pressed open after sewing. This reduces bulk.
- Plain Seams - These are simple seams.
Machine Sewing Technique #2 - Sewing Curves
Sewing curves can be tricky when you are sewing opposing curves as the fabric edges will appear to be facing opposite directions. Convex curves, on the other hand, are easier and a little like machine sewing part of a circle.
Tips for sewing curves:
- Mark your seam allowance with a tailor's chalk or removable pen. Curves are much easier to sew when you have a line to follow.
- Pin vertically across the raw edges, so they are easier to remove as you sew. This will hold your pieces together better and give you more control.
- Use a smaller stitch length. Try a length of 2.0.
- For maximum control, use the hand wheel and lift and pivot the foot occasionally, ensuring the needle is down in the fabric.
- Always trim and clip your sewing curves before turning the piece the right way out.
Machine Sewing Technique #3 - Machine Sewing Hems
The most common type of hem done on machine sewing projects is the double fold hem. This hem has the raw edge folded inside, so is considered the most durable. It is best used for straight edges and can be wide or narrow.
To create a half-inch (12mm) double hem:
- Press over the raw edge on the wrong side by ½ inch (12mm).
- Press over the hem a second time by the same amount.
- Pin the pressed hem to hold it in place.
- Use an average stitch length of 2.5 and sew around the upper edge of the folded hem.
- Press again to flatten the stitches and hem.
Other types of hems include:
- Single Fold Hem - Best for bulky fabrics.
- Double Fold Hem - Most commonly used hem.
- Narrow Hem - Used for sheer fabrics and rounded edges.
- Wide Hem - Great for thicker fabrics and hems where you want more shape.
- Circle Hem - Use circle hem techniques to make circular skirts.
- Blind Stitch Hems - When you want an invisible hem, you can use a special machine sewing foot to create a blind hem.
- Scalloped Edge - Scalloped edges can really elevate your sewing project, giving a pretty shell-like appearance to hems. The linked tutorial has several templates to make this process even easier.
Machine Sewing Technique #5 - Finishing the Seams
There are many ways to finish seams by machine sewing. The simplest is to use a wide zig-zag stitch to seal the edges and stop them from fraying. Seams can also be finished using a bias tape Hong Kong finish or an overcast stitch.
The ultimate in seam finishes, of course, is using your serger, which will finish, neaten and cut all in one pass.
Machine Sewing Techniques with a Serger
A serger is an amazing supplementary machine for every sewing room. It can sew seams, finish edges and even gather. For those of you who wish to make money from your machine sewing, a serger is a necessary device to get professional-looking garments.
Notice how I called it a supplementary machine. You will still need an ordinary sewing machine as there are some things that a serger just cannot do, including just a plain straight stitch.
Here are some articles on machine sewing techniques using a serger:
More Machine Sewing Techniques
Machine Sewing Zippers
Learning how to sew a zipper is an important part of learning to sew. Zippers are common fasteners in dresses, pants, skirts and even cushions. Don't worry, it really isn't hard once you have a few extra tips.
Here are some articles on sewing zippers that will help you:
- How to Sew a Zipper
- Types of Zippers
- Zippered Pocket
- Sewing Invisible Zippers
- Exposed Zipper
- How to Sew a Lapped Zipper
- How to Use a Zipper Foot
Once you have learned how to sew a zipper, you can use these skills to sew some easy projects.
Machine Sewing Techniques Gathering
Gathering is a sewing process where a long strip of fabric is shortened so it can be attached to another flat piece of fabric. Learning how to gather fabric is one of the most useful techniques a beginner can learn.
Most gathering is done with machine sewing, but it is also possible to gather by hand. Gathering with a serger can be used when you want gentle gathers and do not need to control the finished length.
Gathering can also be achieved by sewing with elastic thread in the bobbin. This gathers the fabric on top and is commonly done in several rows.
Creating Bias Tape
There are a large number of sewing projects that use bias tape, and making your own will not only save money but open up a world of contrasting fabric options.
Bias tape is used for finishing edges in clothing, home decor, and many other projects. It may be applied invisibly so it doesn't show on the outside or on the outside to add a pop of color and interest to the edges. Bias tape seams are common in high-end, unlined jackets and bias tape hems finish dresses and skirts beautifully.
Here are some more tutorials on bias tape:
Machine Sewing Specialty Fabrics
There are a large number of specialty fabrics that can be sewn with machine sewing. Just a few tips and tricks will have you successfully sewing them in no time.
- Sewing Leather - Leather and vinyl needs special leather needles as well as strong threads and either a walking foot or Teflon foot. You will also need to lengthen your stitch length in order not to perforate the fabric.
- Sewing Spandex - Spandex needs to be sewn with a narrow zig-zag stitch or serger in order to maintain the stretch of the seams.
- Sewing Tulle - Tulle is easy to sew with a few simple tricks.
- Sewing Stretch Fabric - Stretch fabrics need specialty needles in order to stop the fabric from going into holes and the stitches from breaking. With a few extra tips on the best stretch stitches, it can be fast and rewarding as there is less ironing and little or no finishing of seams needed.
- Sewing Denim - Sewing denim needs specialty stronger needles and thicker threads.
- Sewing Thick Fabrics - Thick fabrics need special consideration as not only do the needles need to be stronger, but you may have to rethink your seam styles and finishing techniques.
- Sewing Sheer Fabrics - When sewing sheer and lightweight fabrics such as chiffon, the best type of seam to use is a French seam where the edges will be encased to reduce bulk and stop fraying. Narrow hems are often recommended also.
- Sewing Velvet - Velvet is a plush fabric with a pile. Important tips include ensuring you cut all pieces in the same direction otherwise, you will have differences in the color of the velvet.
Machine Sewing For Quilting
Quilting is an age-old art form where small patches of fabric are sewn together to make decorative blankets.
Machine sewing is invaluable in sewing all the patches together. Here are some tips for machine sewing quilts:
- Use a shorter stitch length - This will add durability to your quilt.
- Use specialty quilting pins to hold layers together.
- A walking foot will prevent puckering when stitching through all layers and will stop shifting of the patchwork shapes as you sew.
- Bias tape can be cut straight instead of on the diagonal since it doesn't need to stretch. Quilt edges are typically straight.
Here are some beginner quilting tutorials to get you started:
Decorative Machine Sewing Techniques
Applique is a machine sewing or hand sewing technique where shapes or pictures are sewn on top of another piece of fabric. When done with a machine, a short-length zig-zag stitch is sewn over the edge.
Pintucks are small tucks of fabric done with machine sewing and used to create texture and interest. They are best sewn in light to medium weight fabrics as they will add stiffness to any design. Using pintucks is a popular choice for clothing bodices and panels as well as on cushions.
Sewing trims is a fast and easy way to embellish your machine sewing projects. Most trims can be sewn either on top of the fabric or caught into a seam. Ric-rac is one of the most popular and enduring trims and comes in countless widths and colors.
Here are some tutorials on sewing different types of trims:
Sewing pockets on items not only serves a functional purpose but also can look amazing when done in contrasting fabrics. Pockets can be large or small and very simple or fancy with pleats and piping.
Here are articles on how to sew some of the most popular types of pockets.
Learning how to sew pleats is another popular machine sewing technique. Pleats add volume and interest to garments and can be in the same main fabric or in a contrast fabric for a pop of color that shows as you walk. There are many types of pleats, such as box pleats and knife pleats.
Machine Sewing Techniques of Troubleshooting
Don't feel bad if things go wrong when machine sewing! Basic sewing machine troubleshooting is a necessary part of your sewing experience. Most problems can be solved quite easily, from thread tangles to broken needles. Rethreading your upper and lower threads are what rebooting is to computer problems. It solves an enormous amount of problems when all else fails!
Here are some more specific machine sewing problems and how to fix them:
- Sewing Needle Keeps Breaking
- How to Clean a Sewing Machine
- Sewing Machine Thread Keeps Breaking
- Sewing Machine Skipping Stitches
- Seam Puckering when Sewing
Machine Sewing Techniques for Repairs
Machine sewing is also extremely useful for repairing clothing and other fabric items. With some simple techniques, you can save money and ensure your items last for years to come.
Here are some useful tutorials on using your sewing machine for repairs:
20 Easy Machine Sewing Projects
If you are looking for machine sewing projects, then check out the wide range on the Treasurie blog. Below are 20 easy sewing projects for beginners.
Home Decor Machine Sewing Projects
If you are a beginner at machine sewing, one of your first projects should be a cushion cover. When sewing home decor items, you don't have to worry too much about sizing, and most don't take too much fabric. Imagine transforming your house with new cushions and curtains.
Kitchen Decor Machine Sewing Projects
Kitchen decor items don't take much fabric and can completely personalize your kitchen and dining spaces. Most of these machine sewing projects are beginner-level and can be completed in very little time.
Hair Accessory Projects
Hair accessories are great for using up smaller scraps with small prints. In addition, felt is an easy-to-use fabric for many hair items. Things like bows and flowers can be attached to clips, elastic bands, and headbands either by sewing or with hot glue guns.
Clothing Projects
Free clothing patterns will give you the confidence to start using PDF sewing patterns. These digital sewing patterns print on A4 or letter paper and are then taped together. No more going to the store to buy patterns!
Christmas Machine Sewing Projects
I have to admit Christmas is one of my favorite times of the year for machine sewing gifts and Christmassy items for around the house. Read my article on Christmas sewing gifts to get even more ideas.
Making Money with Machine Sewing
Now you know all about sewing machine stitches and where you start, why not consider making some extra money with your newfound skills? Sewing can not only be a rewarding hobby but a nice way to make money as a side business while working from home.
When trying to make money with machine sewing, always be conscious of making items that don't take too long to sew and make sure you know all the sewing tools that can save you time.
Machine Sewing Techniques - In Conclusion
So that gives you a roundup of machine sewing techniques. If you are a beginner, start at the beginning with how to sew and then slowly build up your skills. The internet is a wealth of information for learning to sew, how to use a sewing machine and simple sewing projects. Good luck, and enjoy your new hobby!
Leave a Reply