Pinked Seams – The Easiest Finishing Technique

Pinked seams are one of the quickest ways to finish raw fabric edges without a serger or extra stitching. By cutting the seam allowance with pinking shears, you create a zigzag edge that helps reduce fraying and keeps your garments lasting longer. In this guide, you’ll learn how to sew pinked seams properly, which fabrics they work best on, when to avoid them, and how they compare to other seam finishes — so you can decide if they’re right for your project.

What is a Pinked Seam?

A pinked seam is a seam finished with pinking shears. The purpose of the pinked seam is to neaten up the seam allowance without having to sew or use a serger. A sharp pair of pinking shears is required to cut pinked seams. The shears, with their sharp zigzag edges, are ideal for cutting the pinked edges of the completed seams. 

If you are learning beginner seam finishing methods, explore the full types of seams guide to compare easy seam finishes for different fabrics.

When Should You Use a Pinked Seam?

Pinked seams are a seam finish best for fabrics such as cotton, linen, quilting cotton, and stable woven fabrics.

They work best when:

• You’re sewing light to medium-weight fabrics
• The garment won’t be washed frequently
• You want a fast, low-bulk finish
• The seam is mostly straight

Avoid pinked seams when:

• The fabric frays heavily (rayon, loose weaves)
• The garment needs frequent washing
• The seam is curved
• The fabric is thick or bulky

If you can’t use a pinked seam, consider using alternatives such as French seams, zig-zag stitches, princess seams, bound seams or overcast stitches.

Pinked Seams vs Other Seam Finishes

Here is a comparison table of pinked seams and other seam finishes to stop edges from fraying:

Finish	Durability	Bulk	Skill Level	Best For
Pinked	Low–Medium	Very Low	Beginner	Quick projects
French	High	Low	Intermediate	Sheer fabrics
Zigzag	Medium	Medium	Beginner	Everyday wear
Serged	High	Low	Advanced	Professional finish

How to Make a Pinked Seam

Here are the steps for sewing a pinked seam so your fabric edges don’t fray.

Step 1 – Sew the Seam

Sew your seam as per the normal 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowance. Press the seam closed to keep neat edges. There are two schools of thought on the pressing and cutting of the seam allowance. 

• Press the seam closed and cut the two edges together on light to medium-weight fabrics. 
• Press the seam open and pink each side individually on medium to heavy-weight fabrics.

Step 2 – Cutting Pinked Seams

Have your really sharp pinking shears ready to cut pinked seams. These are often hard and heavy to handle types of cutting tool; notice they are actually called shears.

Look at your shears, and you will notice the handles are different. This is to make the shears comfortable to hold and to give the maximum pressure to the cutting edge.

You can cut through both pieces of fabric on the seam allowance, or one edge at a time. The choice to cut through two pieces of fabric, or one, depends on the fabric. Always try out your process on a scrap of the same fabric because thicker fabrics may not cut cleanly if they are doubled. 

Cut with the pinking shears close to the raw edge of the seam allowance. Take long slow cuts through the fabric, pressing down on the table or cutting board with a firm, controlled hand.

Direction Cutting with Pinking Shears – It is very important to cut the fabric on a straight grain when using pinking shears to create pinked seams. The reason is that each little triangle cut into the fabric is actually cut on the cross or the bias.  The blade and the zigzag rows of teeth that make up the shears are designed to cut cross-cuts into the grain of the fabric. These triangles will not fray. 

The cutting technique is important. Open the shears and fit the fabric into the shears, so the edge of the fabric you plan to cut is right up at the top of the shears. Pinking shears have a long slow slicing action, not a short sharp snipping action. Practice this way of cutting to be sure you can handle the shears properly.

Step 3 – Pressing Pinked Seams

Open out the pinked seams and press firmly through the middle. 

If you have decided to pink each side individually, you will use your pinking shears twice to neaten both sides of the seam. 

If you decided to create pinked seams on double fabric, then as you open out the sea,m both sides will already be neatly pinked. The finished seam will be ‘pinked’ on both sides of the seam allowance. This method saves time as you only pink once.

Common Mistakes for Pinked Seams

1. If you have fuzzy edges, your scissors are blunt. Always have sharp pinking shears.
2. Use this seam technique only on medium to heavy-weight fabrics.
3. Pinked seams are best suited to garments that do not require frequent washing or cleaning. A pinked edge is not as hardwearing as a machine-neatened seam allowance.
4. Long, straight, and even cutting with the shears makes a cleaner, neater edge.
5. Cutting the double seam allowance makes the final outcome neater on the inside.
6. Pinked edges are ideal for straight seams or skirt’s side seams and center back seams.
7. Align the teeth of each consecutive cut with the previous cut to get a neat, continuous zigzag edge.
8. Extra strength to the seam is possible with one line of straight stitching just about ¼” from the pinked edge.
9. Never use your pinking shears to cut paper!

Pinked Seams Advantages

Here are the advantages of using pinked seams:

• It is quick and easy to do.
• It prevents bulk on the inside as the seam can be ironed flat, and there is no bulky edge caused by turning over the edge of the seam allowance.
• It is useful on fabrics and garments that do not need heavy washing and cleaning.
• Pinked seams on the right side can be used for decorative purposes.

Pinked Seams Disadvantages

Here are the disadvantages of using pinked seams:

• You have to have sharp pinking shears.
• Some fabrics will unravel in spite of having pinked seams.
• Pinking seams are really more suitable for long straight seams.
• Pinking shears can be heavy and difficult to use.

How to Care for Pinking Shears

Pinking shears are precision tools and need to be well looked after. Their cutting ability is dependent on being sharp and clean. Here are some tips to keep your pinking shears in good order.

• Keep the teeth of the blades clean, wiping out any threads or lint left after your cutting.
• Sharpen the edges with a cutting wheel or some fine sandpaper. Do not cut aluminum foil or paper with your pinking shears. Remember to only sharpen the flat edges of the teeth. It is not necessary to sharpen between the teeth because it is the edges that do the cutting.
• Ideally, send your pinking shears to a professional to be sharpened.
• Cut wax paper occasionally to help lubricate the shears through the wax residue from the wax paper.
• Oil the shears if they get stiff by putting a few drops of oil on the pivot screw between the blades. Move the shears up and down a few times. Wipe away any leftover oil with a dry cloth.
• Look out for any signs of rust. If you notice rust on your blades take some steel wool and plain soap. Dip the shears in some vinegar and then rub them with steel wool and soap.
• Always make sure your pinking shears are stored clean and dry.

Uses for Pinked Seams

There are other exciting ideas and ways to use pinking shears and pinked seams. They can be both practical and decorative at the same time. 

The most common type of pinking shears is the zigzag design, but there are other styles, and they can cut your fabric differently. Decorative scissors can cut a wave pattern, a scallop pattern, and other ripple patterns, but the zigzag is the most well-known and effective for cutting edges to prevent fraying.

Getting crafty with pinking shears is a great deal of fun. Here are some ideas to play around with, and they are suitable for the whole family.

• Pinking the edge of felt crafts has the double effect of neatening and adding a decorative edge. Little purses, bunting, bookmarks, and pincushions all look good with pinked seams.
• If you are in a hurry to finish a hem, it can be pinked instead. Pink and turn to the right side and sew to make a pretty zigzag effect.
• Make your own ribbon and pink the edges for a decorative variety.
• Cut out applique pieces with pinking shears for a zigzag edge that makes your applique look different and neatens at the same time.
• Use your pinking shears to trim the edges of lavender DIY-scented sachets. The lavender aroma will escape through the fabric, and you will be able to run the bags up in no time. Stitch on the outside and trim all the edges. Fill the bag with lavender and stitch across the opening. This is such a quick and easy gift to make, or just the right thing for your wardrobe.

In Conclusion

Pinking shears are the best pick-up and put-to-use piece of equipment you have available. Pinked seams add such a pretty edge to anything you have made, and they can make a practical difference to the way you finish off something as small as a gift or the inside of something bigger. 

Always remember to practice first to get the perfect cutting action as you slice through the fabric. Pinking shears are a great asset to every sewing kit, and when they are too old for use on fabric then you can put them to use on various papercraft activities. Pinking shears add the cutting edge to your sewing tools.