How to Sew Bias Tape (Single, Double Fold) for Beginners

Bias tape is one of the most useful sewing finishes for binding raw edges, sewing necklines, finishing armholes, quilting, and decorative trims. Because bias tape is cut diagonally across the fabric grain, it curves smoothly around edges and corners while creating neat professional-looking finishes. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew bias tape using beginner-friendly methods for garments, quilts, and sewing projects.

What is Sewing Bias Tape

Bias tape is a strip of fabric folded on the edges that has been cut at a 45-degree angle. This means it can stretch around corners since it is cut on the bias. It is usually made from woven fabric, but you can also get stretch bias or satin bias. Bias Tape can be used for decorative purposes or to finish an otherwise raw edge. If you look in your cupboard, you will see several tops and dresses with double-fold bias necklines and armholes.

TRY YOUR SKILLS ON: Heidi Dress Sewing Pattern or Sophia Top Pattern

Single Fold vs Double Fold Bias Tape

Double fold bias tape is a fabric strip that is cut on the diagonal (the bias) and then pressed into quarters along its length. When you look at the double fold bias, you can see that the raw ends are folded inside. You can make bias tape yourself using bias tape makers.

The most commonly used width is 1/2 inch (12mm) bias tape. 1/4 inch (6mm) widths are commonly used in bias bound seams.

Supplies for Sewing Bias Tape

• Bias tape
• Sewing supplies – scissors or rotary cutter and cutting mat, ironing board and iron, thread, sewing machine

You can use store-purchased tape or make your own with a bias maker using my easy how-to-make bias tape tutorial. The advantage of making your own bias tape is using pretty patterned fabrics to coordinate with your sewing projects.

How to Sew Double Fold Bias Tape

This tutorial will show you how to sew bias tape to edges for a clean finish as well as how to overlap edges and finishing. We will start with how to sew double fold bias tape and then finish with sewing single fold bias tape.

Here are the step by step instructions for sewing double fold bias tape. Here are 2 methods.

Fast and Easy Method

I’m not sure you would call this cheating, but it is certainly the fastest way to sew bias tape. I would generally use it on a straight or very slightly curved edge. If you have an edge that is tightly curved or small and fiddly, then you will get better results with method 2.

1. Notice how one side of the bias tape is wider than the other. Open the tape up in half so the wider edge is on the bottom.
2. Now simply slip the bias over the fabric so the raw edges are sandwiched in the middle. Pin the bias in place from the top (narrower) edge. Wonder clips are also great for holding bias tape.
3. Stitch it in place. Because the bottom edge is wider, it should be caught in all the way along. Easy, isn’t it?

Traditional Method

So what do you do when you have a fiddly edge to bind, or you want a foolproof professional finish on garments? This will take you a little longer, but the results can be worth it.

TIP: For sewing double fold bias tape curves, press the tape in a curve before you start. This will reduce any wrinkles.

Open up your double-fold bias so that the wrong side of the tape is facing up. Pin the WIDER side to the wrong side of your project, with the raw edges matching. I like to place my pins vertically to the edges, as this holds the tape in place nicely. Stitch along the folded edge of the tape closest to the edge. The seam allowance is usually 1/4 inch (6mm).

Flip your project over so it is right-side up on your table.

Wrap the bias tape over the raw edge and fold it over. The folded edge of the bias tape should just cover the row of stitches. Make sure it lies smoothly and is not pulled or wrinkled. Pin it in place.

Now on the right side, stitch close to the open edge of the bias. This will catch in the underneath of the bias. Don’t forget to remove those pins! Just beautiful!

If you are sewing something circular, for example, a bound neck or armhole, you will want a seamless overlap on the ends of the bias tape. Use this simple technique to hide where the double fold bias binding overlaps.

Where you start, fold the end over by 1/2 inch (12mm) and match the raw edge of the fabric and bias. It is always best to start somewhere the join will not be noticed. 

When you get back to where you started just overlap the ends by 1/2 inch (12mm). The top end should be flat and not folded over like the underneath piece.

If you need to bind the end of your project, simply fold the end over by 1/2 inch (12mm). Then stitch and sew the bias as normal.

When you fold the bias over the ends will be neatly tucked inside.

How to Sew Single Fold Bias Tape

The techniques used for single and double fold are very similar. Single fold bias is often used around clothing necklines and armholes to provide a clean and simple edge finish. You can stitch it inside the garment if you don’t wish to see it or on the outside for a decorative contrast effect.

Step 1 – Press in a Curve

How to keep bias tape from puckering? Because single fold bias is commonly used around highly curved areas, you should start by pressing it in a curve. This helps it sit better with fewer wrinkles in your finished product. Just put your iron on steam and gently manipulate the bias as shown below.

Step 2 – Pin to Edge

Start by opening up one side of the single fold tape and pinning it with the wrong side up around the raw edge of the fabric.

• DECORATIVE BIAS ON THE OUTSIDE OF A ARMHOLE OR NECKLINE – If you wish for the bias to show on the outside of the garment like the Bella Dress (red dress), then pin on the inside.
• INVISIBLE BIAS FOR HEMS, ARMHOLES AND NECKLINES – If you wish the bias to end up on the inside for an invisible finish (like my denim sample), then pin the bias to the outside.

Step 3 – How to Sew Bias Tape Ends

If you need to overlap the bias for a circular opening like a neck or armhole, then start somewhere like the shoulder seam or back where it won’t be noticed. Fold the end of the bias over by 1/2 inch (12mm).

When you get back to where you started, simply overlap the ends by 1/2 inch (12mm). Just leave the end flat – there is no need to fold the top piece.

Step 4 – Stitch Along Fold

Use your sewing machine on a straight stitch along the bias and in the crease closest to the edge. If you are using 1/2 inch (12mm) single fold bias hen this will be 1/4 inch (6mm) from the raw edge.

Step 5 – Fold Down

Now press the bias to the other side and press and pin it down.

See in the picture below how the seam is now on the edge. The bottom folded edges should be tucked under and just cover the stitching line. Sewing clips can help hold the edge of the bias tape in place if pins make marks.

Step 6 – Stitch Edge

Edge stitch the bias in place close to the bottom edge. Give your finished bias a really good press. You will be surprised how much flatter it sits.

How to Sew Bias Tape on the Ends

If you have an edge to finish with single fold bias tape, simply fold the ends of the bias tape over when you stitch it in the first step.

Press the bias to the other side with the edge tucked in.

Tips for Professional Bias Tape

Pressing the bias tape before and after sewing will create smoother more professional-looking edges. Using plenty of pins or clips and sewing slowly around curves also helps prevent twisting and puckering.

For cleaner stitching, make the underside of the bias tape slightly wider so both sides are caught evenly while topstitching.

Common Bias Tape Mistakes and Tips

Bias tape can become twisted or puckered if it is stretched while sewing. Pressing carefully and shaping the tape before stitching will help create smoother finishes.

Common Mistake	Tip
Puckered curves	Press bias into curves first
Twisted tape	Pin carefully before sewing
Missed underside	Make bottom fold slightly wider
Bulky corners	Trim seam allowances
Uneven stitching	Sew slowly near curves

How to Sew Bias Tape FAQs

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How to Sew Bias Tape – In Conclusion

Learning how to sew bias tape is an essential sewing skill for finishing raw edges, sewing curves, binding quilts, and creating decorative trims. Both single fold and double fold bias tape create clean professional-looking finishes for garments and sewing projects. With practice, bias tape becomes one of the most versatile sewing techniques for necklines, armholes, seams, and decorative edge binding.

More Articles on Bias Tape

1. How to Make Bias Tape
2. How to Make Continuous Bias Tape
3. How to sew Mitred Square Corners with Bias Tape
4. Bias Bound Seam
5. Hong Kong Finish
6. How to Sew a V Neck with Bias Tape