How to Sew a Wide Hem for Beginners (Step By Step)
A wide hem is a sewing finish commonly used on skirts, dresses, jackets, and coats. Unlike narrow hems, wide hems add weight and structure to the bottom of a garment, helping it hang smoothly and creating a flattering silhouette. They are especially useful for flared skirts and garments where extra body improves the overall shape. There are several ways to sew a wide hem, and the best method depends on your fabric type and how much bulk it can accommodate. In this tutorial, you’ll learn 5 easy ways to sew a wide hem, including serged hems, double-fold hems, bias tape hems, and ribbon finishes, so you can choose the best option for your sewing project.
How to Sew a Wide Hem (Quick Guide)
Choose the wide hem method that best matches your fabric and the finish you want. If you’re unsure which method to use, choose a double-fold hem. It creates a neat, durable finish and works well on most skirts, dresses, and woven sewing projects.
- Double-Fold Hem – Best for lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics that fray easily. This is the most traditional and beginner-friendly wide hem.
- Serged Hem – Best for thick fabrics where a double fold would create too much bulk.
- Zig-Zag Hem – A good alternative if you don’t own a serger.
- Bias Tape Hem – Best for bulky fabrics or garments with deep curved hems.
- Ribbon Hem – Ideal for delicate fabrics where you want to reduce bulk and prevent visible ridges.
Why Use a Wide Hem?
The main reason to use a wide hem instead of a narrow hem is to give some shape to the bottom of a dress or skirt. It gives a flattering look and is a more suitable hem type for medium to heavy-weight fabrics. See how the hem on this women’s skirt pattern holds out from the body, creating a flattering silhouette for all body types.
Explore more types of hems to use for skirts in the full how to sew hems guide.
How to Sew a Wide Hem (Step by Step)
Traditional double-fold hems are a great wide hemming method for thin to medium-weight fabrics that fray as the edge is neatly tucked away.
- Press up the raw edge by 1/4 inch (6mm)
- Press the edge again by the seam allowance, which is usually 1-2 inches (2.5 to 5cm) for a wide hem.
- Then simply straight stitch along the inside folded edge.
Other Ways to Sew a Wide Hem
Sew a Wide Hem with a Serger
This method is great for thick fabrics as you only need to fold up the hem once.
- Start by using your serger or the overlock stitch on your regular machine to finish the raw edge. Since the hem will only be folded once, you may need to trim a little off the seam allowance.
- Press up your wide hem by the seam allowance.
- Straight stitch across on top of the overlocking stitches.
Sew a Wide Hem with a Zig-Zag
If you don’t have a serger or overlocking stitch on your regular machine, you can get a similar result with a zig-zag stitch. This method is best with fabrics that are thick but do not fray excessively.
- Set your zig-zag to a width of 4-5 and a length of 1-2. You can use a regular zig-zag stitch or 3 step zig-zag.
- Stitch along the raw edge about 1/4 inch (6mm) from the edge and trim close to your stitches.
- Press up the wide hem by the seam allowance and straight stitch close to the raw edge and on top of your zig-zag stitches.
Wide Hem with Bias
Using bias tape to finish a wide hem is a common method of hemming used for medium-weight fabrics that fray easily. I still remember my grandmother using this technique for her woolen skirts.
- This method commonly uses 1/2 inch (12mm) wide single fold bias tape.
- Start by opening up one side of your bias tape and pinning it to the right side of the fabric.
- Straight stitch in the crease which will be 1/4 inch (6mm) from the edge.
- Press up the hem by the seam allowance and straight stitch along the top edge of the bias.
Wide Hem with Ribbon
Using hemming tape or satin ribbon is a great way to hem skirts and dresses made from bulky fabrics or thinner fabrics where any serging or folding will cause a ridge to show on the outside.
- Start by pinning and then stitching the tape to the right side of the fabric on the raw edge. You will want it to overlap by about 1/4 inch (6mm).
- Then press up your wide hem and stitch the tape along its upper edge.
Pin for Later
How to Sew a Wide Hem – In Conclusion
Now you know how to sew a wide hem it is time to make that sewing project you have been thinking about.
What is your favorite method? Please share it below.
More Articles on Hems
- GENERAL HEMS – How to Sew a Hem
- NARROW HEMS – How to sew a narrow hem
- ROLLED HEM FOOT – How to use a rolled hem foot
- WIDE HEMS – How to sew wide hems
- CIRCULAR HEMS – How to sew circular hems
- BLIND HEMS – How to sew a blind hem | blind hem foot
- RUFFLED HEMS – Lettuce hems
- KNIT FABRIC HEMS – How to hem knit fabric
- KNIT HEMS – Twin Needle
- SQUARE HEMS – How to Sew Mitered Corners
- HAND HEMS – Hemming Stitch
Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
