Learn all about sewing cotton fabric. Cotton invokes visions of summer with cool dresses and one of the easiest fabrics to sew! Learning how to sew cotton fabric is perfect for beginners as it is stable under your sewing machine and needs just simple techniques and tools.
Sewing Cotton Fabric Tutorial
Although cotton may seem like a poor relative compared with silk and satin, it is known in America as "King Cotton." It is America’s leading cash crop. That little cotton ball made up into a bale can produce 215 pairs of jeans, or 249-bed sheets, or 313,600 $1 bills. And that is just one bale! King Cotton, a simple sewing pattern, and some basic sewing cotton steps will give you a royal experience!
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I have broken this sewing cotton fabric tutorial into 5 easy steps.
- Preparation
- Identifying the fabric
- Cutting
- Sewing cotton fabric
- Finishing
How to Sew Cotton Fabric, Step by Step for Beginners
Step 1 - Preparation Sewing Cotton Fabric
- THE BASIC SUPPLIES - You will need scissors, cotton thread, a tape measure, pins, and a basic sewing pattern. Look for simple patterns to start with if you are a beginner.
- FABRIC CHOICE - Choose a fabric to fit your pattern. Start with plain colors or all-over prints if you are a beginner. Choose more difficult designs and stripes as you become more experienced.
- WASHING - Always pre-wash your fabric. Wash and dry as you plan to launder the fabric in the future. Make a note of any color running or bleeding. Iron with a steam iron to get all wrinkles out. Some kinds of cotton have ‘sizing’, a form of starch that will come out in the first couple of washes.
Further Reading:
Step 2 - Identifying the Cotton Fabric
Before sewing cotton fabric, it is important to identify what weight and type of cotton you have purchased. There are subtle changes you will need to make for different types of cotton.
- DIRECTION - Cotton is a woven fabric with a warp and a weft. The direction of the fabric and the pattern go with the direction of the threads.
- THREAD COUNT - Try the scrape test on the fabric with your fingernail. If the threads separate, then the fabric thread count is low, and the fabric will not be very strong. The higher the thread count the softer and more durable the cotton fabric.
- WEIGHTS - There are different weights of cotton, from lightweight to medium and heavyweight, and each weight is suitable for different articles.
- COMPOSITION - Always check each label for the 100% cotton mark and look at the pattern you have chosen, as most patterns recommend a fabric type. If you are not sure if your fabric is cotton, you can do a burning test to identify it correctly. Organic cotton is sewn in a similar way but is produced without the presence of harmful chemicals.
- NAMING - There are different names for cotton fabrics, too, and they refer to different textures, prints, or even colors. Damask, gingham, and ticking have specific prints. Flannelette, shirting, seersucker, and corduroy have different textures. Khaki is a specific color and strong cotton.
Step 3 - Cutting Cotton Fabric
- LAYOUT - Always lay out your pieces to check the grain of the fabric, pattern lines, fold lines, and so on to be sure that every piece you need is cut correctly. Cotton can be cut folded so each piece, unless otherwise stated, is double or on the fold line.
- PINNING - Pin, cut, and mark according to the pattern and baste if necessary. There are different types of pins that you can purchase, but cotton uses an all-purpose pin most of the time. If your fabric is marked by the pins, pin outside the seam allowance or use pattern weights or heavy tins from your pantry.
- MARKING - Marking can be done using a tailor's chalk or tracing wheel.
Further Reading:
Step 4 - Sewing Cotton Fabric
Seam Type for Sewing Cotton
Cotton lends itself to most seam types depending again on the weight of the cotton and the style of the garment. Use the French seam for the lightweight cotton, and avoid bulky seams by grading.
Best Needles for Sewing Cotton
Needle sizes and stitches will vary according to the weight of your cotton, so adjust your machine accordingly and always test settings on a scrap of fabric before you start.
The best needle to use for the majority of cotton fabrics is a universal needle. Heavier cotton such as denim can be sewn with a denim needle or upholstery needle.
- Extra heavyweight cotton - needle size 100/16 or 120/20
- Heavyweight cotton - needle sizes 90/14 to 100/16 or denim-type needles
- Medium weight cotton - needle size 70/10 to 80/12
- Lightweight cotton - Needs a finer universal needle of 60/80 to 70/10
Best Stitch Length for Cotton Fabric
The best stitch length for cotton depends on its weight. Here is a guide:
- Extra heavyweight cotton - Try stitch width 3.0 - 4.0
- Heavyweight cotton -Stitch length of 2.0 - 2.5
- Medium weight cotton - stitch length of 2.0 - 2.5
- Lightweight cotton - stitch length of 1.5 - 2.0
Step 5 - Finishing Sewing Cotton Fabric
The easiest way to finish a seam when sewing cotton fabric is to use a serger or a zig-zag stitch. Read more about seam finishes you can do if you don't have a serger. Bias bound seams can be a good finish for really thick cotton.
Cotton hems can be finished off with a simple double-fold hem. Machine-stitched or hand-stitched, it will depend on your preference and the attachments on your machine. A blind hem is a great professional finish to the garment.
Sewing Cotton Fabric with Decorations
Cotton fabric is ideal for embellishing with embroidery, pintucks, and ruching.
Further Reading:
Caring for Cotton Fabric
Cotton fabric is easy to wash and maintain in good condition.
Washing
All cotton fabrics should be washed prior to sewing as they are prone to shrinkage. Some darker colors may also bleed, and you don't want that transferring to lighter colors once you have sewn up your item.
Cotton can be hand-washed or machine washed, but either way, you should use cold or warm water. Hot water will increase any shrinkage or color bleed. Use a gentle detergent designed for cotton fabric.
Drying
It is best to air-dry cotton fabric either flat or on a line. To avoid color fading, hang in the shade. Tumble drying will lead to further shrinking of the fabric, so it is best avoided. If you must tumble dry, use low heat and take the item out while still damp.
Ironing Cotton Fabric
Cotton creases easily, so it usually needs pressing after washing. Use medium to high heat and a water spray for stubborn creases. Take note whether your cotton fabric includes Lycra, silk, or other delicate fibers, as this may affect the heat you can apply.
Ironing can be minimized if you gently smooth items flat with your hands after they come out of the washer. Hang the cotton fabric up immediately to prevent the creases from reforming.
Sewing Cotton Fabric- In Conclusion
King Cotton, from dollar bills to fancy frills, is an inspiration. With the right preparation, identification, cutting, sewing, and finishing, you will be well prepared for sewing cotton fabric.
Sewing More Fabrics
Now you know all about sewing cotton fabric, check out these other fabrics listed alphabetically.
- CHIFFON - Sewing Chiffon
- BATIK - What is Batik
- CANVAS - Sewing Canvas
- COTTON - Sewing Cotton
- DENIM - Sewing Denim
- FELT - Sewing Felt
- FUR - Sewing Fur
- KNITS - How to Sew Stretch Fabric
- INTERFACING - Types of Interfacing
- LACE - How to Sew Lace
- LEATHER - Sewing Leather
- RAYON - Sewing Rayon
- SHEER - Sewing Sheer Fabrics
- SILK - How to Sew Silk
- THICK - Sewing Thick Fabrics
- VELVET Sewing Velvet
- WOOL - Sewing Wool
Tyler Johnson
That's good to know that the thread count would be a good way to know the quality of the fabric. I could see how if the thread count is higher, that would be a good way to choose fabrics to work with. I'll have to look for that so I can choose the best fabric possible.