Sewing darts give 3-dimensional shape to your clothing and bag sewing projects. They can also be used as part of the design, particularly in asymmetrical garments.
Follow these simple steps to create perfect darts every time.
SEWING DARTS – STEP BY STEP
Transfer the dart marked on your pattern piece onto the wrong side of the fabric. (Learn how to transfer markings.)
Mark along the middle of the dart with your tailors chalk. Advanced sewers can probably just fold the dart in half without marking.
Fold the dart in half, with fabric RIGHT sides together, along your marked middle line and pin in place. Using vertical pins will hold the dart in place nicely. Always place the last pin at the point of the dart. This way you can use it as a visual guide when sewing.
Start stitching from the outside edge of the fabric inwards towards the point. Use a medium stitch length (2.5). Remove the pins as you stitch.
About 1 inch from the end, change your stitch length to 1.0-1.5. This will create a smoother, less puckered and stronger dart. When you get to the end of the point, don’t back stitch. Just leave a long tail of threads and knot each end being careful not to pull too tight and cause puckering.
HOW TO PRESS DARTS
As a general rule, horizontal bust darts are pressed downwards and vertical darts like those around the waist of skirts or pants are pressed towards the center. For most of my bag sewing patterns, I recommend you press the darts towards the center.
Use a tailor’s ham to get a nice shape at the point.
Now you know how to sew darts! Think of all the new sewing pattern possibilities this opens up with your new found confidence!
Do you have any extra tips? Please share – there is always more than one way to sew!
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