Denim has been around for over 100 years. Originally from De Nimes in France, where is got its name, it was made popular by Levi Strauss for work clothes during the American gold rush. Its traditional blue color that fades, is what everyone associates with denim, but this type of strong cloth can come in many colors and patterns. Hard-wearing, hard-working, yes that describes denim. But what about how to sew denim – is it hard to sew? The answer is no, not really. If you take note of some tried and trusted sewing denim tips, you will find denim a really rewarding and durable fabric to sew…
SEWING DENIM: TIPS #1 – Know your fabric…
Check the weight of your fabric: Denim comes in different weights from light chambray to heavy dark denim. The basic strong cotton twill can be over-dyed, stone-washed, made to stretch and even given a polycotton feel, so there are lots of choices to be made.
It is also important to check the width of the fabric as sometimes denim is not as wide as you may be used to.
Always pre-wash denim fabrics: Whatever the weight of your denim fabric it needs to be pre-washed to check for color fastness and for shrinking. It is advisable with the really dark denims to wash twice. Giving denim a soak in vinegar and warm water can also help with the colorfast process. (Read how to test if fabric is colorfast and how to prewash for shrinkage)
SEWING DENIM: TIPS #2 – Cut your coat according to your cloth…
Pattern choice is very important with denim. It is wise to make sure the pattern design is suitable to the strong feel of the denim cloth. The Maisie cape and the Famke skirt are good examples of patterns suited to denim.
Great Premium Patterns you can practice how to sew denim:
Pay attention to the grain of the fabric. If your denim is cut off grain you risk it twisting when the garment is worn.
If your fabric frays a lot you may have to zigzag or serge the edges straight away just to prevent fraying. Sometimes cutting may be difficult if the fabric is really thick and you will need to cut each piece separately instead of having the fabric folded. Careful planning will be necessary and you must remember to flip the pattern to get the opposites cut.
Use really sharp, strong pins to prevent the denim from slipping.
Now on to how to sew denim!
SEWING DENIM: TIPS #3 – How to Sew Denim…
What is the best needle to use for sewing denim?
Make sure your needle is suited to sewing on denim. Universal, Singer, Klass and Schmetz are manufacturers of denim needles that are stronger and sharper for piercing heavy denim.
What is the best thread to use for sewing denim?
Choose the correct strength of thread for the seams. Use a strong polyester thread in a quality brand such as Rasant, Coats and Clark or Gutterman. You can buy specialized jeans thread but not all machines like sewing with thicker threads. I find it hard to get nice even stitching and prefer using a thinner but strong thread.
It is possible to sew with a double thread if you thread the machine with a spool and a bobbin thread together and bring them through all the points of the machine and out at the end through the needle together. That will give you a double thread on the top of the fabric and a single thread below coming from the bobbin.
Change your stitch length and experiment on a scrap to see how the stitch works with your weight of denim. It is really worthwhile to test the fabric, needle and thread together as you gain confidence with sewing denim and learn how to sew denim.
What is the best sewing machine to use for sewing denim?
If you are just sewing light denim then your regular sewing machine with the right needles, thread and technique will do a great job. But if you will be sewing denim regularly or sewing a heavy denim, then consider purchasing a heavy duty sewing machine with a strong interior frame and more powerful motor like these below.
SEWING DENIM: TIPS #4– The actual sewing process…
- When sewing denim choose a seam that suits the style and weight of denim you are using. It could be a graded seam or a bound seam or a run and fell seam. There is an option of using a serger or a zigzag stitch to stop fraying.
- Top stitching on the outside is very effective but you will need the right cotton for that effect and may need to change your needle for one with a bigger eye. Going over seams twice will add strength to the garment.
- It is vital to press a lot as you sew denim. Press with a steam iron to really get the seams flattened. This will make all the difference to the finished garment.
- If the denim is really thick it is advisable to turn the wheel of the machine by hand and guide the needle over the tough spots. Then you can guide the fabric and prevent slipping and needle-breaking by holding the fabric as you guide it through the machine at the front and the back.
- Another tip for the thicker parts of the garment is to cut the facings out of a lighter fabric. This way they sit better on the edge of the neckline or sleeve edge and are not so bulky to sew.
- Finally, check your machine can cope with the extra weight of denim. It needs to have a strong metal frame. There are also different foot options like the jean’s presser foot or a roller foot. If you are going to sew a lot of denim this could be a great option to help the sewing process.
Denim is versatile too. It is not limited to the practical work clothes and durable dungarees originally created using this hardwearing fabric. Denim has been bedazzled, trimmed and turned into all kinds of creative things. Bags, hats, shoes and clothing just to mention a few. Denim lends itself to be recycled in many different ways. There is no end to the ideas for the denim sleeve of a jacket or the transformation of an old pair of jeans. It has to be the fabric that keeps reinventing itself and in so doing becomes true to the saying –
Something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue.
Sewing Denim….old but making things that are new, borrowed for its durable designs and definitely blue.