How to Sew Elastic Easily for Beginners

Learning how to sew elastic is an essential sewing skill for waistbands, necklines, cuffs, lingerie, swimwear, and stretch garments. Elastic can either be sewn directly onto the fabric edge or threaded through a casing, depending on the type of garment and the amount of gathering required. Gentle gathers are usually best created by sewing elastic directly onto the fabric edge, while fuller gathers work best with elastic threaded through a casing. In this tutorial, I will show you 2 easy ways of sewing elastic.

Supplies to Sew Elastic

• BEST NEEDLES TO SEW ELASTIC – Because you will be stitching directly on to the elastic, you will need ballpoint or stretch sewing needles. Some elastics may be sewn with universal sewing needles but if you find that your stitches are skipping, switch to one designed for stretch.
• BEST FOOT TO SEW ELASTIC– Most sewing elastics can be sewn on with a regular all-purpose sewing foot but if you are still getting skipped or irregular stitches even with a stretch needle, try a Teflon sewing foot. The Teflon foot glides over the elastic and keeps the stitches moving evenly.
• BEST THREAD TO SEW ELASTIC– When sewing elastic to an edge, use a good quality polyester thread. Cheap threads are likely to break halfway through your stitching and cause you frustration.
• BEST TYPE OF ELASTIC – Use knit or woven elastic when stitching to an edge. These types of elastic do not narrow when stretched and are fairly stable to sew on top of without stretching out of shape. Swimwear elastic is great for leotards and swimwear as it has the added bonus of not rotting with chemicals or sweat.

How to Sew Elastic to an Edge (Step by Step)

This method of sewing elastic in an elastic waistband is perfect for wider elastics where a gentle gather is required. I find wider knit elastic usually stays flatter and more comfortable in waistbands than narrow braided elastic.

BEST FOR – This method is commonly used on knit fabrics and in leotard patterns where elastic needs to be attached to the neck, waistband, or legs.

1. Fold your elastic into a loop and overlap the ends by 1/2 inch (12mm). Stitch the ends together. I like to use 2 rows to hold the ends flat.
2. Divide your elastic into quarters. Divide the edge of the waistband or cuff into quarters. Mark with a removable pen or chalk.
3. Pin the elastic on the wrong side to the edge of the waistband, matching the quarter marks. Notice how the elastic is smaller than the waistband edge.
4. Stretch out the elastic between each mark and stitch along the edge with either a wide zig-zag or serger. If you use a serger, there is no need to cut the edge, as this can weaken the elastic. Stretching the elastic evenly between the quarter marks helps prevent twisted or uneven gathers.
5. On the inside of the waist, fold the elastic down by its width and pin it in place. You will need to stretch the elastic out.
6. On the edge of the elastic waistband, stitch it in place, stretching it flat as you go. You can use a zig-zag stitch or a straight stitch. If you are sewing this elastic waistband on a stretch garment, then a zig-zag or twin needle is your best option.

And there you have it – a beautiful, gathered elastic waistband that won’t twist.

How to Sew Elastic in a Casing (Step by Step)

This method of sewing elastic in a waistband is great for thin or thick elastic, where fuller gathers are desired. As well as waistbands, it is commonly used in the neck of peasant dress patterns. I have referred to creating a casing on a waistband, but this method works equally well on necks, sleeves, and ankles.

BEST FOR – Woven fabric sewing patterns

When sewing elastic in a casing, you will not be stitching directly on the elastic. The best elastic for casings is braided elastic. This type of elastic is soft and designed for this kind of application. (Further reading: types of elastic guide)

1. Press the top raw edge of your waistband over by 1/4 inch (6mm) on the wrong side of the fabric.
2. Press the top edge over again by the width of the fabric plus 1/4 inch.

3. Stitch around the bottom edge of the casing, leaving a 1-inch (2.5cm) gap somewhere that is not noticeable. This is generally either the side or the back of the waistband. TIP: I tend to put it on one side of a seam so it does not end up too bulky where the elastic will be threaded through. Backstitch on either side of the gap.
4. Put a safety pin through one end of your elastic, thread it all the way around the casing, and through the other end. You can also purchase specialty sewing bodkins to easily thread elastic.
5. Overlap the ends by 1/2 inch (12mm) and stitch with either a zigzag or a straight stitch in a square. As you will be sewing through the elastic, it is best to use a ballpoint needle.
6. Push the elastic back into the casing and then stitch the gap closed.

All finished! You just need to arrange the gathers evenly.

How to Sew Elastic Without Twisting

For method 1, there is no danger that the elastic can twist, but for method 2, using a casing, the elastic can twist around, causing discomfort. If you have already stitched your elastic into the casing before you realized that it is twisting, there is something you can do to fix it.

• Stop Wide Elastic Twisting – Distribute the gathers evenly around the waist and put pins at the quarter marks. Put your skirt back in your machine, the right way up, and stitch through the center of the elastic. You will need to stretch the elastic flat between the pins so you don’t get any puckers or gathers.
• Stop Thin Elastic Twisting – Ensure the gathers are distributed evenly and mark the center back and sides with a pin. Simply put a vertical row of stitching at the center back and sides. Depending on the style, you could put a row at the front as well.

Other Sewing Elastic Methods

There are 3 other methods of sewing elastic that are worth mentioning. These are:

1. Fold Over Elastic – Fold over elastic has a groove down the center and is used on the edge of knit fabric sewing patterns on items such as underwear and leotards. Read the full tutorial on how to sew fold over elastic.

2. Shirring Elastic (Elastic Thread) – Shirring elastic is used to create rows of elastic to form a band, generally at the waist. The elastic thread is hand-wound on the bobbin and sewn with your sewing machine. The machine will be threaded with regular thread on top and the elastic thread in the bobbin. Read the full tutorial on how to sew elastic thread

3. Sewing Elastic for Lingerie – Lingerie elastic or picot is commonly found on the edge of lingerie and underwear. It is stitched in a similar manner to the method used for sewing elastic to fabric edges. The main difference is that the elastic is folded over slightly differently at the end. Read the full tutorial on how to sew lingerie elastic.

4. Sewing Clear Elastic – Clear elastic is used to gather knit fabric rather than for casings or the edges of fabric. Using it as a gathering method is important for sewing stretch fabric where the waistband of the dress needs to stretch in order to get over the body. Read the full tutorial on how to gather with elastic.

Sewing Elastic Without Skipped Stitches

Skipped stitches while sewing elastic are usually caused by incorrect needles or poor-quality thread. I find stretch needles or ballpoint needles almost always improve stitch quality when sewing directly onto elastic. Using a Teflon foot can also help the elastic feed more evenly beneath the machine.

Common Elastic Sewing Mistakes and Tips

Elastic may twist, tunnel, or create skipped stitches if the wrong needle, stitch, or elastic type is used. Testing your elastic on scraps first will help improve stitching quality and comfort.

Common Mistake	Tip
Skipped stitches	Use stretch needles
Twisted elastic	Stitch through casing
Broken thread	Use polyester thread
Wavy seams	Stretch elastic evenly
Bulky waistband	Choose softer elastic

How to Sew Elastic FAQs