Sewing Leather & Sewing Vinyl - Perfect Stitching

Sewing leather or vinyl (faux leather) for sewing clothing, bags and clutches can add a deluxe look to your finished product. Did you know that you can sew vinyl and leather on your home sewing machine? With a few simple tools and adjustments, you can get professional looks for your purse sewing patterns or clothing sewing patterns at home.

Sewing Leather and Vinyl Tutorial

What is Leather vs Vinyl?

There is not much difference between sewing leather and vinyl (also called faux leather). Faux leather often has a fabric backing which actually makes it easier to sew on the wrong side. Sewing leather or vinyl on the right side can be tricker as a shiny surface can prevent the material from gliding through the sewing machine.

Can I sew leather on my regular machine?

Yes, you definitely can! All you need is a few adjustments and tools and some scraps to start practicing. The main considerations when sewing leather on your regular machine are:

1. Thickness of leather
2. Needles
3. Machine feet
4. Backings
5. Extra tools
6. Thread types
7. Pinning methods
8. Stitch length

Can sewing leather be done on a specialty machine? If you will be sewing leather regularly, you may want to purchase a heavy-duty domestic machine or an industrial leather machine. (Further Reading: Leather Sewing Machine)

8 Tips for Sewing Leather

1. Choose the Correct Thickness of Leather

• THICKNESS - Choose a leather/vinyl thickness that your machine can handle. For parts such as pockets, just use the leather/vinyl on top of the flap and fabric underneath.
• VINYL - For vinyl, choose thin to medium thicknesses. For leather, choose sheepskin or thinner goatskin. Heavy leathers are best sewn on a specialized leather machine with a strong motor. Something like this belt shown in the photo below is easy to sew with your regular sewing machine as it was made from soft sheepskin.
• TEXTURE - The finish of the leather is important. Choose a matt or satin finish like this belt. Don't try and sew patent (extra shiny, wet look) leather with your regular machine, as it is too sticky.
• TYPE - There are many different types of leather, including sheep, goat, and cow. Most of these are suitable for sewing, provided they are not too thick.

3. Best Sewing Machine Foot for Leather

When sewing leather or vinyl, use a Teflon foot or roller presser foot rather than your regular foot. These stop the vinyl or leather sticking to the bottom of the foot and keeps your tension and stitches even.

Personally, I think Teflon feet are much less bulky and easier to use as the open toe makes it easier to see where you are stitching. They are available cheaply for most makes of machine.

You can see in my photo below how well-loved my Teflon foot is (middle foot).

If you don't' have either of these feet, try a walking foot. While bulkier again the walking foot will not stick to the surface of the leather as it lifts slightly in between stitches.

4. How to Stop Sewing Leather from Sticking

If you can’t get a Teflon or walking foot, place tissue paper over the leather or vinyl and stitch through all layers. You can then rip it out when you are finished. Just be careful when you are removing the tissue paper so you don't cause loops in your stitching.

5. Get a Hammer

You can’t iron vinyl or leather, so where the pattern calls for seams to be pressed, gently hammer the edges instead. The best kind of hammer to use is one with a very flat hitting surface. If you need really flat seams or for the seams to stay open, put a little leather glue underneath before you hammer them down.

A hammer is also great for reducing bulk in seams. Just hit gently to compress the vinyl to make it easier for your machine to go over. Stop the hammer marking the leather/vinyl by putting a cotton cloth in between before striking.

6. Best Thread for Sewing Leather

When sewing leather, use a strong polyester thread that won’t break. Don't even try a cheap thread, as the seams will just break. My favorite is Rasant but Coats, and Gutterman make strong threads as well.

For topstitching and seams that need to be durable, use a thicker or specialized leather thread. Don't use 100% cotton thread in leather, as the chemicals in the leather tend to rot the thread over time. The bobbin thread will need to be regular thread.

7. Don't Use Pins

Pin marks will show in your leather or vinyl, so use double-sided tape or leather glue to hold pieces in place. Binder clips can also work.

If you are using double-sided tape, use a quality brand that won't gum up the needle, or don't place the tape directly under your stitching line. You can purchase double-sided tape from leather retailers.

Always make sure any glue you use dries clear, just in case you accidentally get some on the right side of the leather.

Alternatively, pin within the seam allowance or use wonder clips. Stationary clips can also be used to temporarily hold seams.

8. Best Stitch Length for Leather

Shorter stitches will cause the vinyl to perforate, so when straight stitching, try a longer stitch length of 3.0. See how it looks and gently pull the seam to see how it looks.

Sewing Leather - Decorative Stitches

While the majority of your stitching will be done with a straight stitch, decorative stitches can also be used. Zig-zag makes a great decorative look and holds down any raw edges when doing applique. Try a zig-zag with a width of 5.0 and a length of 2.5.

Sewing Leather Projects

The internet is full of projects you can sew with leather. Here are a few from my blog. Start with small purses and clutches, and save your scraps for tassels and applique.

• Leather Purse Pattern – The Scottie Dog
• DIY Coin Purse: Cute Mini Leather Purses
• Triangle Pouch Pattern: {Free Tutorial}
• Sunshine Clutch Tutorial: {FREE pattern}
• Starry Sky Clutch Pattern {Free Clutch Tutorial}
• Leather Tassel Tutorial

Sewing Leather - In Conclusion

Now you have all the tips for sewing leather, grab a scrap, and start practicing! Always keep any leather scraps, as you can piece them together and make something nice like the little purse above. Scraps also make nice applique pieces for leaves, flowers, and initials.

More Articles on Sewing Bags

• Leather Sewing Machine: Best sewing machines
• Sewing Leather
• How to Insert Magnetic Snaps
• Topstitching Flaps
• Free Makeup Roll Pattern

Sewing More Fabrics

Now you know all about sewing cotton fabric, check out these other fabrics listed alphabetically.

1. CHIFFON – Sewing Chiffon
2. BATIK – What is Batik
3. CANVAS – Sewing Canvas
4. COTTON – Sewing Cotton
5. DENIM – Sewing Denim
6. FELT – Sewing Felt
7. FUR – Sewing Fur
8. KNITS – How to Sew Stretch Fabric
9. INTERFACING – Types of Interfacing
10. LACE – How to Sew Lace
11. LEATHER – Sewing Leather
12. RAYON – Sewing Rayon
13. SHEER – Sewing Sheer Fabrics
14. SILK – How to Sew Silk
15. THICK – Sewing Thick Fabrics
16. VELVET Sewing Velvet
17. WOOL – Sewing Wool