Sewing Machine Needle Sizes, Types & Uses: Are You Using the Wrong One?
Choosing the right sewing machine needle for a project can mean the difference between broken threads, skipped stitches, and a perfect, professional-looking seam. With so many needle sizes and types available, it’s easy to feel confused if you are new to sewing. This guide will show you the best needle sizes, types, and uses to get the best out of your sewing machine. It includes simple charts and practical tips you can use right away.
Sewing Machine Needles: Sizes Types & Uses
A sewing machine needle is designed to be inserted into an electronic sewing machine. It creates a clean hole in the fabric and will guide the thread through to form even stitches.
This tutorial will look at the factors that influence the size and type of needle you need. Choosing the right needle size and types is essential for smooth seams and great results.
Using the wrong needle may result in
- ❌Broken or frayed thread
- ❌Uneven stitches
- ❌Holes in delicate fabric
- ❌ Difficulty sewing thick fabrics and multiple layers
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Want a printable ad-free PDF with all the sewing machine needle charts and information? Get this PDF guide from the Treasurie shop.
Here’s a summary sewing machine needle chart with their recommended uses. Keep reading for more information on each size.
| Needle Size | Weight | Typs of Fabrics |
|---|---|---|
| 60/8 | Lightweight fabrics | Very fine fabrics, silk, tulle, organza, chiffon. |
| 70/10 | Lightweight fabrics | Lightweight cotton, voile, and sheer fabric. |
| 75/11 | Light to medium-weight | Quilting cotton, lawn, lightweight woven. |
| 80/12 | Medium-weight fabrics | Cotton, linen, and satin. |
| 90/14 | Medium to heavyweight | Denim, corduroy, and canvas. |
| 100/16 | Heavy-weight fabrics | Upholstery, heavy denim, faux leather. |
| 110/18 | Extra heavy-weight | Heavy canvas, vinyl, thick upholstery. |
| 120/19 | Very heavy-weight | Multiple layers, heavy. |
2 Ways to Choose the Right Needle
Sewing needles sizes are classified by 2 characteristics:
- THICKNESS – A thicker needle can sew through thicker fabrics. Thinner needles, of course, are most suited to fine fabrics such as silk and chiffon.
- PURPOSE – The needle’s purpose, such as for sewing stretch fabrics, topstitching, or sewing denim. Leather needs specialized needles to pierce. Often, different fabrics and purposes require different-shaped tips in order to best penetrate the fabric fibers.
Further Reading: Hand Sewing Machine Needle Sizes
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Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Needle Size
In this section, I will discuss what the numbers on needle packets mean, the most common needle sizes, and what each is best for.
How Sewing Machine Needle Sizes Work
If you look at most needle packaging, it will have 2 numbers on it with a / to divide them. For example, 80/12.
These represent two sizing systems:
- American size (8–20): Indicates relative thickness
- European size (60–120): Indicates needle diameter
💡Machine Needle Sizes – In simple terms, the larger the number, the thicker the sewing machine needle. Use smaller needle sizes on lightweight fabric and larger sizes on heavyweight fabrics.
Common Sewing Machine Needle Sizes?
Common sewing machine needle sizes are 60/8, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14 and100/16. Here is a table with the labels you will see on the packet.
| European | US Size | Labelling |
|---|---|---|
| 60 | 8 | 60/8 |
| 65 | 9 | 65/9 |
| 70 | 10 | 70/10 |
| 75 | 11 | 75/11 |
| 80 | 12 | 80/12 |
| 90 | 14 | 90/14 |
| 100 | 16 | 100/16 |
| 110 | 18 | 110/18 |
Quick reference:
- 60/8–70/10: lightweight fabrics (silk, chiffon, voile)
- 75/11–80/12: medium fabrics (cotton, linen)
- 90/14: denim and canvas
- 100/16+: heavy layers, upholstery, vinyl
What Needle Size Should I Use?
The numbers on sewing machine needle packages represent the thickness of the fabric you are able to sew.
- The larger the numbers, the thicker the fabric you can sew.
- Conversely, smaller numbers are for sewing finer fabrics.
From this table, you can see that 60/8 is used to sew very fine fabrics such as silk and organza, while 110/18 is used for denim and canvas.
Sewing Needle Sizes and Uses:
- Size 8/60, 9/65, 10/70 – (Very fine fabrics) Use for fine silk, chiffon, organza, voile, and fine lace.
- Size 11/75, 12/80 – (Lightweight fabrics) Use for cotton voile, silk, synthetics, spandex, and lycra
- Size 14/90 – (Medium weight fabrics) Use for quilting fabrics, cotton, velvet, fine corduroy, linen, muslin, jersey, tricot, knits, light wool, sweatshirt knits, fleece.
- Size 16/100 – (Heavyweight fabrics) Use for Denim, corduroy, canvas, heavy linens, heavy twill, duck, suiting, and leather.
- Size 18/110 – (Very heavy fabrics) Use for heavy denim, heavy canvas, upholstery fabric, faux fur
You can buy packets of sewing needs with assorted sizes, so you can easily switch over to a suitable needle. I sew a lot of quilting cotton, so I always have plenty of 80/12 and 90/14 in my sewing drawers.
Sewing Machine Needle Parts
To discuss the different types of needles, we first need to identify the parts:
- Butt – This is the part that is used to insert into the sewing machine clamp.
- Shank – The front has a round shape, while the back is flat. This helps you put the needle in the machine the correct way.
- Shaft – This is the length of the needle.
- Eye – Thread is inserted through here.
- Tip – This is the pointed end of the needle.
Sewing Machine Needle Brands
There are a lot of different brands of sewing machine needles as well as sizing, but my favorite is Klasse, Singer, and Schmetz needles. These are good quality, strong needles that don’t break easily.
Sewing Machine Needle Chart with Types
In addition to checking the sewing machine needle sizes, we need to determine its type. Different types and shapes of ends are designed for different fabrics. Here we will look at some of the most common sewing machine needle types and their uses.
Types of Sewing Machine Needles
Here are 12 types of sewing machine needles you will find in your local haberdashery store:
1. Universal Sewing Needles
These types of needles will be used most often. They can sew all kinds of fabrics, including woven and stable (not too stretchy) knits, and are suitable for both natural and synthetic fabrics. Use them to sew cotton, voile, linen, light wool, rayon, and poplin. Buy a couple of packets in assorted sewing machine needle sizes from 10/70 to 14/90, and you will have many fabrics covered. Universal needles have a slightly rounded tip.
2. Ball Point
Ballpoint needles can be used for tightly woven fabrics and knit fabrics with a lower stretch factor. They can be used for cotton knits, polyester, and polyester cotton. As the name suggests, their tip is rounded, enabling it to slip through fibers without cutting through them. This is especially important for stretch fabric,s where holes can easily form.
3. Jersey
These are specifically for knit fabrics with a medium stretch factor. The rounded tip is designed to slip between fibers and not cause laddering or holes.
4. Stretch
These types of needles are designed for fabrics with the maximum amount of stretch, such as dance lycra, spandex, and swimwear fabric. I often use these for sewing elastics and rib knits as well. They will reduce puckering and skipped stitches in stretch seams.
5. Leather
Leather needles are a must for sewing leather, synthetic suede, up leather or vinyl. They have a sharp point that pierces through the leather and a strengthened shaft. Make sure you lengthen your stitches when using the leather needle, so you don’t cause perforation.
6. Quilting
Quilting Needles are strengthened to pierce through numerous layers of fabric and batting. This prevents the needles from breaking or bending. They are also great for bag making, where you will sew through thicker interfacing and layers.
7. Topstitching
Top stitching needles have large eyes for thick thread and are strengthened. Since topstitching is done on the edge, there will be several layers to sew through.
8. Sharps/Microtex
Sharps are strengthened and finer and sharper than universal needles. They are used when sewing thin vinyl, appliqué, silks, and tightly woven fabrics.
9. Jeans (Denim Needles)
These, of course, are for sewing denim, which is thick and dense. They often come in thicker sewing-machine needle sizes and are strong enough to sew a pair of jeans or overalls. They have a very sharp point for piercing thick fabric.
10. Double (Twin Needles)
Double needles have 2 needles next to each other that are joined at the top. They are for sewing hems in stretch garments.
11. Machine Embroidery Needles
These sewing machine needles are designed for computerized embroidery machines where you require dense stitching. They prevent splitting or shredding of the machine embroidery thread and give nice, even stitches.
12. Metallic
Metallic threads are often thicker and prone to shredding. Using a specialized metallic needle with an extra-large eye will prevent the thread from splitting as it is able to run through smoothly.
Sewing Machine Needle FAQs
Most sewing needle manufacturers will say 6-8 hours. This might seem like a short life span, but needles are cheap, and changing them frequently will result in better sewing.
Turn off your machine and loosen the screw. Insert the new needle with the correct sewing machine needle sizes and type. The flat side always faces the BACK of the machine. Tighten the screw, and you are ready to sew.
No, different fabrics require different needle sizes and types. Switching needles for each project helps prevent fabric damage and improves stitch quality.
In Conclusion
When going to a shop to purchase sewing machine needles, look for the type first, for example, leather, universal, topstitching, and then choose the size. If you look for sizing first, you will go crazy, since there are so many combinations.
Do you have any extra tips for choosing the right sewing needle sizes? I’d love your input. Please comment below.
More Sewing Tools for Beginners
- Beginners Sewing Kit
- Cutting Tools in Sewing
- Sewing Machine Feet Guide 10 of the best feet to own
- Best Fabric Marking Tools
- Types of Pins
Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
I happened to find this blog and I thank you <3 🙂
Thanks a lot at last i know now what needle to be used when sewing for every kind of fabric.
Thanks for the explanation,needed this to purchase the proper size for canvas
I appreciate the needle information. I’ve been having trouble sewing through 6 layers of vinyl and getting even stitching. I’ll keep trying. At least now I know the differences.
Congratulation !
I got a good idea of all type of needles and theirs uses.
Thanks a lot.
very nice explanation has given in this site. its truly amaze.
This was a wealth of information for a newbie! Thank you for taking the time to share this. Especially love the charts I can keep handy.
@ complete newby
A universal 70/10 will do your poly cottons , you will need more than 2 needles too, no you can use any needle you don’t have to use brother,
But you are better buying the good ones as cheap needles will make you pay, buy Schmitz, klassè , or singer needles, your sewing will look great ,
A tip I always tell my students is / if you have a bottom loading bobbin then make sure your bobbin is turning clockwise when inserted , as if your machine does not state what direction then clockwise always works for any , don’t be scared , really what can go wrong? , start on smaller projects and work your way up, it will save you frustration, any more questions just ask dear ❤️❤️
That is a brand name. It should say on the packet the size and type. If they are out of the packet they will be hard to identify.
1) bands – you can use any brand. Singer, Schmetz and Klasse are good
2) You are best off having different needles but you may find the one universal can work. Test a scrap of each fabric
3) If you are sewing batting use quilting needles. Batting fibres tend to cause skipped stitches on other types. Once again test a scrap.
4) Yes for the best results swap needles for different projects. It won’t damage the machine but without switching needles you can get skipped stitches or uneven stitches.
Thanks for all your questions and good luck.
Hi there,
Firstly, thank you for this post about types, sizes and how to change your needle. I’ve saved your post so I can refer back to it.
I’ve just bought a sewing machine. I’ve never used one before and haven’t used my one yet because it’s only just arrived.
In regards to needles, I hope someone can help answer these questions for me please.
1) I have a brother sewing machine. Do I need to buy brother needles or can I buy other brands ie Singer please?
2) Can I use one needle for the stuff I plan on doing or do I need 2 different ones? Let me explain better. I plan on working with cotton fabrics and / or polycotton fabrics which according to your tables require needle size 75 – 80 and ballpoint needles.
But then I also plan on sewing through a few layers both with and without batting which requires needle size 90 and quilting needles.
So my question is, do I buy both these types and sizes and keep swapping them depending on what I’m doing at the time or can I use a quilting needle at size 90 for all of it? Will a quilting needle at size 90 be ok to use on cotton fabrics without damaging the fabric or damaging the machine please?
I don’t want to break my machine or ruin my fabric by breaking needles.
Thank you so much for posting this guide!!! I do a lot of refashioning on clothes, but recently I had a problem when trying to refashion a tshirt. It kept getting caught in the bobbin area and I realized I had to use ballpoint needles with it! But I was stumped when I came across several different sizes and I wasn’t sure which to buy. Thanks for your awesome guide!
I have butterfly sweing u knw wat type of needle is used and the size also.
Hi Mary, Use a quilting thread. These are strengthened. You can also get quilting needles which are strong and designed for thicker batting. The batting inside can catch the thread and create a problem without the correct thread and needles.
I have problems with my thread breaking when I am quilting felt any suggestions I have tried using a needle for denim with no luck, could it be my thread?
Schnetz universal needles are good quality and quite standard. Give them a try.
So helpful with different items, methods and tips.
Needles, fabric weights, sewing tips….on and on.
thank you
Thank you so much for this post! It’s the only source I found online that explained the significance of the numbers relevant to needle thickness, fabric thickness, and fabric type.
Very helpful, but what about the length of the needles? I bought some schmetz universal needles and they are a bit longer than the organ needle that was already in my machine.
Hi Sue, While the thread skipping is a common problem, Velcro doesn’t normally break needles. I’m wondering if you are using a poor quality Velcro or one that is just too stiff. Does your Velcro have sticky backing? This sounds like a craft Velcro rather than a sewing one. For the thread skipping, make sure you are using a good quality thread and use small stitches. Stitch on the edge of the Velcro where there are not loops. Also try thicker needles and try a small zig-zag instead of straight stitch.
Hello I have real problems with the needle breaking/sticking and thread skipping and breaking when I stitch velcro could you please offer some advice.
Thank you
Sue
Hi Tava, if the colors are on the needles themselves, they probably relate to different sizes. Look up the brand needle you have and they should have a chart to help you. Thanks for reading.
There are different colors on the top of the needles that I have. Do they correlate with the colors you have listed on your chart above?
Very helpful guide for the sewing machine needle sizes. Thank you.