Sewing Pattern Symbols Guide

Sewing pattern symbols help you achieve accurate results when cutting and assembling your project. These markings tell you where to cut, fold, stitch, and match pieces together. These pattern marks do vary slightly between designers, but there are some universally used sewing symbols that most sewing patterns use. This guide will show you the most commonsewing pattern symbols, what they mean, and how to use them.

Sewing Pattern Symbols Tutorial

This week, we are learning about cutting and marking fabric in the how to sew beginner tutorials. Your pattern instructions will have a chart or glossary explaining all pattern symbols. This is usually at the beginning of the pattern.

Sewing Symbols Meaning: Sewing pattern symbols may be used to indicate how to place the pattern in the correct direction or to help fit a sleeve to an armhole. They are also common for gathers, pleats, tucks, and many other pattern details.

Common Sewing Pattern Symbols

The most common sewing pattern symbols are:

Align the pattern correctly	Name	Purpose
Arrow	Grainline	Align pattern correctly
Line	Fold line	Cut on fold
Triangle	Notch	Match pieces
Cross	Button	Button placement
Dot	Marking	Matching points
Double line	Adjustment line	Lengthen/shorten
Dotted triangle	Dart	Shape garment

1. Grain lines

These double-ended arrows tell you to place the pattern piece parallel to the selvage and along the fabric grainline. Measure from the top and bottom of the arrow and ensure they are equal distances from the selvage. For example, if the top of the arrow is 4 inches (10cm) from the selvage, the bottom of the arrow should also be 4 inches from the selvage.

2. Fold lines

This symbol rectangular sewing pattern symbol has one open side and means place on the fold. Place your pattern piece on the folded edge of the fabric, making sure the selvages are even on the other side. If you are adding seam allowances, you do not add any to fold lines. Cutting on the fold ensures your pieces are completely symmetrical and is often a good way to minimize fabric consumption. Further Reading: How to Cut Fabric

3. Notches

What do the triangles mean on sewing patterns? Triangles and or a diamond shape are called notches and indicate you need to mark these points to enable you to match up the pattern when sewing. Notches can be single notches, double-notches, or even triple. They can be solid and colored or open. I always recommend you cut outwards but this is a personal preference. See my article on how to cut notches for more information.

4. Button and Buttonholes

Indicate button and buttonhole positions. The sewing pattern symbols of a long bar with vertical ends represent the size and position of the buttonhole, and a cross is common for the button sewing position. Read my articles on sewing buttonholes by machine and how to sew a button.

5. Dots, Squares, and Shapes

All shapes need to be transferred onto your fabric and are used for matching up pattern pieces and adding details such as gathers, pleats, pockets and dart bust points. You can transfer with tailors tacks, chalk, or a removable pen. See my blog articles on marking tools in sewing and transferring markings.

6. Adjustment Lines (Lengthen or shorten lines)

These are double lines that are normally accompanied by the words lengthen or shorten here. These are quite common in sewing leotards and pants where length matters. The placement of adjustment lines can vary by the designer, but they are usually at the waistline, hips, or center back.

7. Stitching lines

Stitching lines are not generally found on multi-sized patterns, but on single-sized patterns, these sewing machine stitch symbols are represented by dotted lines. Generally, there is no need to transfer these lines onto your fabric. Cutting lines, on the other hand, are represented by a solid line for single-sized patterns.

8. Darts

Shown as a dotted triangle or diamond, these pattern markings show you where to stitch to add shape in areas such as the bust and waist. (Read how to sew darts)

How to Read Sewing Pattern Symbols (Step by Step)

There are 5 basic steps to reading the pattern symbols for any sewing project. They are:

1. Find pattern glossary
2. Identify grainline
3. Mark notches
4. Transfer markings
5. Cut fabric

Step 1: Find the Pattern Glossary

Before you begin, look through your sewing pattern instruction booklet for the pattern glossary or symbol chart. This is usually located at the beginning of the instructions. Each designer may use slightly different markings, and the glossary will explain exactly what each symbol means.

Step 2: Identify the Grainline

The grainline arrow is one of the most important sewing pattern symbols. It shows how to place your pattern piece so it aligns correctly with the fabric grain. This ensures your finished garment hangs properly and does not twist.

To position it correctly:

• Lay your fabric flat
• Find the selvage edge
• Measure from the top and bottom of the arrow to the selvage
• Adjust until both measurements are equal

Step 3: Mark the Notches

Notches are small triangles or diamonds on the edge of your pattern pieces. These symbols help you match fabric pieces together accurately when sewing.

To mark notches:

• Cut outward around the triangle (preferred method)
• Mark with chalk or a washable fabric pen
• Never cut inward, as this weakens your seam.

Step 4: Transfer Pattern Symbols and Markings to Fabric

Many sewing pattern symbols need to be transferred from the paper pattern onto your fabric. You can transfer markings using tailor’s chalk, tailor’s tacks, or washable markers. Accurate marking ensures your garment is assembled correctly and fits properly.

These include:

• Dots
• Dart points
• Button placements
• Pleats and gathers

Step 5: Cut the Fabric Carefully

Now that you know all about sewing pattern symbols and their meaning, it is time to start learning how to cut fabric. This article will show you how to fold your fabric, place it on the grain, and how to cut it accurately. If you are a beginner and just building your sewing kit, then you can read about cutting tools in sewing and which are the best ones to purchase. For those of you who are going to be quilting or cutting a lot of straight edges, learning how to use a rotary cutter may also help.

Once your pattern symbols are aligned and marked, you are ready to cut. Once your pattern symbols are aligned and marked, you are ready to cut.

In Conclusion

Learning sewing pattern symbols is one of the most important steps in becoming a confident sewer. These small markings guide you in placing, cutting, and sewing your fabric correctly. If you want neat and professional projects, don’t overlook the symbols on your pattern!

Have you come across any unusual sewing pattern symbols? Please share below.