57 Sewing Terms, Glossary for Beginners (+Pictures)

Appliqué is a decorative sewing technique in which pieces of fabric are cut into shapes and sewn onto a larger fabric. The fabric shapes are often stitched down using various techniques, such as zigzag, satin stitch, or hand stitching.

An armscye is the curved opening in a top pattern where the sleeve is attached. It refers to the shape and size of the armhole, which is crucial for ensuring a good fit. The armscye affects the overall silhouette and mobility of the wearer.

1. Backstitch (lock stitch) is used at the beginning and end of a machine-sewn seam to keep it from unraveling. Put your machine in a reverse position for a few stitches. (backstitch seams)
2. Can also refer to a style of hand stitching used to create strong seams. (Hand sew backstitch)

To baste a seam is a sewing expression meaning to temporarily join pieces of fabric together using long stitches that can be easily removed. This basting stitch can be done either by hand, pins or machine. Basting can also be called tack or tacking. Tailors tacks are a type of basting.

Bias is the diagonal cross-grain of the fabric at a 45 degree angle. It is where there is the most stretch. Further Reading: Selvage, Grain and Bias. It can also be the shortened name for bias tape (see below).

Blanket stitch is a hand embroidery stitch used on the edge of felt, wool, and blankets. It is made up of vertical stitches and a line of thread around the edge of the applique or fabric.

Clipping the corners means cutting off excess fabric from cornered seams to reduce bumps and puckering at the corner when you turn your item right side out. Further Reading: How to Sew Corners

You clip after sewing curves by cutting a wedge out of the seam allowance along a seam so it lies flat and smooth when you turn the garment right side out. 

A dart is a small pleat or tuck in the fabric to give the garment shape. It is typically used at the bust, armscye, and waist. Darts are marked in chalk then sewn. Further Reading: How to Sew Darts and Types of Darts.

A dressmaker dummy is a mannequin covered in fabric that is used to fit clothing. They may be a fixed size for creating samples of fully adjustable to match your body. Further Reading: Types of Dressmaker Dummies

To ease a pattern piece means to adjust a longer edge of fabric to a slightly shorter one in such a way that the gathers or pleats aren’t obvious. It is most commonly used when attaching sleeves to a bodice. Ease can also refer to the amount a garment is larger than your body. Further Reading: Fabric Draping and Ease

Edgestitch means to stitch very close to the edge of a folded or seamed edge in order to finish a project, offer stability or close an opening. It can be used for decorative effects and is usually 1/16” or 1mm from the edge. Further Reading: How to Topstitch

Sewing facings is a sewing technique used to finish the raw edges of a garment, such as the neckline, armholes, or hems, to create a clean, polished look. It involves cutting a separate piece of fabric that matches the shape of the garment’s edge and sewing it onto the inside of the garment.

Finishing an edge is done by zig-zag stitching, turning under 1/4″ (6mm), and stitching, serging, or other methods of finishing the edge so it doesn’t unravel or cause a bulk problem. Further Reading: Easy Seam Finishes

A French seam is a method of encasing raw edges to create a durable seam that will not fray. It is best suited to straight edges such as those found on pillowslips. French seams are also the ideal edge finish for sheer fabrics. Further Reading: French Seams

Fusible types of interfacing is able to be pressed on without having to use stitching. It is fused with heat-activated glue on one or both sides. Double-sided fusible interfacing is used a lot for appliqué. Further Reading: Types of Interfacing

Gathering is common in sewing vocabulary. It means that you can join a long piece of fabric with a shorter piece. To gather a piece, two parallel lines are sewn on the right side of the fabric. The long tails of the bobbin threads (on the wrong side of the fabric) are gently tugged, gathering the fabric evenly on the threads.

Grading a seam simply refers to cutting away some of the layers of the seam allowance to reduce bulk. This is especially important for bulky fabrics and intersecting seams.

The grain of the fabric follows the length of your fabric. When you lay out a pattern on your fabric you line the arrow on the pattern with the grain of the fabric. The grain is always parallel to the selvage. Further Reading: Selvage, Grain and Bias

A hem is usually made by turning up the raw edge twice. It hides the raw edges of a garment.

Sewing hooks and eyes are small metal fastenings used to close the openings of clothing. They are hand-sewn on and are often found at the tops of zippers on skirts and dresses. They are a great alternative to a button and buttonhole.

Nap refers to a fabric with a one-direction pile or pattern. It must be cut in all the same direction and so often takes more fabric consumption. Examples of fabric with nap include corduroy, velvet and faux fur. Further Reading: Sewing with Napped Fabric

A notch is a usually triangular piece cut outwards on the edge of a pattern piece. Sewing notches are used to match seams and fabric pieces together. They can be single, double or triple and cut inwards or outwards.

Pinking Shears have a V shape along the cutting edge and are used to cut fabric to prevent it from unraveling. Read more about pinked seams and sewing cutting.

Pintucks are small, narrow pleats used for texture and design in clothing. These tucks are usually stitched down along their length, creating a raised ridge that adds a structured, tailored look to garments. They are commonly used in blouses and dresses.

Piping is a decorative finish used on homewares such as cushions and on clothing. Bias tape covers a piece of rope to make a hardy and stiff border.

1. How to Make Piping
2. How to Sew Piping
3. Free Cushion with Piping Tutorial

A raw edge is the cut edge of the fabric. The alternative to the raw edge is the selvage which is the edge that has been woven and does not fray. Further Reading: How to Stop Fraying

Ruching is a type of gathering used to create volume and design in clothing. Ruching can be created using elastic or a casing. It can be done horizontally, vertically, or diagonally, and is often used to enhance the fit or design of clothing.

A running stitch is a simple up-and-down hand stitch that can be used for basting and seams. It is the simplest stitch for beginners to use. Running stitch also makes beautiful embroidery designs.

To slip stitch or ladder stitch is to hand-sew a fabric or garment with stitches that are hidden or not very visible. Further Reading: How to Sew Invisible Stitch

The seam allowance is the area between the raw edge and the stitching line. Further Reading: How to Add Seam Allowances

A serger or overlocker is a sewing machine that cuts the raw edge of the fabric as you sew. It is used to finish seams and neaten the inside of garments.

1. How to Use a Serger
2. Gathering with a Serger
3. Sewing Machine vs Serger

A seam ripper is a small tool used for removing stitches. It is also called an unpicker in some countries. Further Reading: How to Use a Seam Ripper

A sewing machine is a specialty device used to join pieces of fabric together with thread. It produces durable, even stitches and is the fastest method of sewing. Further Reading: Types of Sewing Machine

Stay stitching is a line of stitching just inside the intended permanent stitching line on a curved edge that stabilizes and keeps the curve from stretching and distorting. Further Reading: How to Stay Stitch

Knit fabrics stretch by different amounts and as such as suitable for different projects. Stretch factor measures the amount of stretch in a knit fabric as a percentage. Further Reading: How to Measure Stretch Factor

Sewing machine tension refers to how easily the thread can pull through the machine to get even stitches on both top and bottom. It is usually adjusted from a knob at the front fo the sewing machine. Further Reading: Sewing Machine Tension

A thimble is a small device that fits over your finger to protect it from needle pricks when hand sewing. They can be made from metal, plastic, ceramic, or even leather. Further Reading: What is a Thimble

Woven fabric is created by weaving fibers together, usually on a loom. It will have horizontal and vertical fibers called warp and weft. It can be made from natural or synthetic fibers and is not stretchy unless another fiber, such as Spandex, is added to it.

A stitch that goes one way (zig) and then the other (zag) and provides a nice finish to a seam to prevent unraveling. It can be a decorative addition to any garment and can allow for give with knits. In addition, it can be used for appliqué. Further Reading – Zig Zag Stitch