Sewing Thick Fabric? Here Are 12 Must-Know Tips for Success
Sewing thick fabric can be difficult, but not impossible and with a few little tricks up your sleeve, you will be on your way to successful sewing. So, how do you let the ‘feed dogs’ on your machine tackle sewing thicker fabric without simply gulping and spitting out the cloth before you have even started? If you’re wondering how to sew thick fabric, the key is using the right tools and adjusting your sewing machine settings. Thick fabrics like denim, canvas, wool, and leather require stronger needles, longer stitch lengths, and slower sewing speeds.
Sewing Thick Fabric (Quick Guide)
To sew thick fabric successfully:
- Use a denim or heavy-duty needle (100/16 or 110/18)
- Lengthen the stitch length to 3.5–4.5
- Use heavy-duty polyester thread
- Sew slowly and steadily
- Use a walking foot or Teflon foot
- Reduce bulk by grading seams
These small adjustments make sewing heavy fabrics much easier and help prevent broken needles or skipped stitches.
What Is the Best Way to Sew Thick Fabric?
The best way to sew thick fabric is to use a heavy-duty needle, strong thread, and a longer stitch length. Sew slowly and use tools such as a walking foot or Teflon foot to help feed the fabric evenly. Reducing seam bulk and testing stitches on scrap fabric will also improve results.
Thick fabrics can be made of any type of composition, but a few of the most common ones you will want to sew are denim, canvas, linen, and leather. Wool and winter fabrics are typically thicker to keep you warm, and easy to sew with a few adjustments. It’s time to let your machine get its teeth into sewing thick fabric!
How to Sew Thick Fabric
Pre-wash your fabric to soften it a bit, and always try out your sewing stitches on a scrap before you start. A bit of extra time to run some tests can save you a headache later.
Select the appropriate needle, such as a heavy-duty or denim needle, and using a strong, durable thread. Adjust your sewing machine’s settings, including stitch length and presser foot pressure, to accommodate the fabric’s thickness. To prevent fabric from slipping, use clips instead of pins and consider basting the fabric before final stitching.
When sewing thick fabric, go slow and use a walking foot or a Teflon foot to help feed the fabric evenly. If seams become bulky, trim or grade them to reduce thickness.
Press seams open carefully using a pressing cloth to avoid damaging the fabric. For extra strength, reinforce your seams with a backstitch or by sewing over them twice.
Best Tools for Sewing Thick Fabric
| Tool | Why It Helps | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Walking Foot | Feeds multiple fabric layers evenly | Denim, quilts, canvas |
| Teflon Foot | Non-stick surface helps fabric glide | Leather, vinyl |
| Roller Foot | Small rollers move heavy fabric smoothly | Thick coated fabrics |
| Denim Needle (100/16 or 110/18) | Strong needle penetrates thick layers | Jeans, canvas |
| Heavy-Duty Thread | Prevents thread breakage | Upholstery, coats |
💡 Tip: A walking foot is one of the best tools for sewing thick fabric because it feeds both fabric layers evenly.
Sewing Thick Fabric Tips
Here are the 12 key tips for sewing thick fabric:
1. Best Presser Feet
Check for special feet that you may need for sewing thick fabrics.
- A walking foot that allows the top and bottom fabrics to move together is a great help.
- Roller feet help feed dogs by moving the fabric under the foot.
- Teflon feet have a non-stick-coated underside to help all kinds of fabrics glide through the machine.
- All-Purpose feet can be used for smooth or medium-weight fabrics.
2. Best Sewing Needles
Check the needle is suitable for sewing thick fabric.
Sewing machine needles are graded into different sizes, and the larger the needle size, the thicker the shank. This means that when sewing thick fabric, you want to look for the largest-sized needles.
- Woven Thick Fabric – Look for 100/16 or 110/18 in denim or universal types.
- Stretch Thick Fabric – If you are sewing thick knit fabric such as polar fleece or sweatshirt fabric, then you will need a thick stretch needle. Stretch needles also come in different sizes. Try a 90/14 or 100/16.
💡 Tip: The universal denim needle, a size 90/14, 100/16, or 110/18 is a good size for many thick fabrics.
Recommended Needle Sizes for Thick Fabric
| Fabric Type | Recommended Needle | Thread Type |
|---|---|---|
| Denim | 100/16 or 110/18 Denim Needle | Polyester or heavy-duty thread |
| Canvas | 100/16 Universal or Denim Needle | Upholstery thread |
| Wool | 90/14 or 100/16 Universal Needle | Polyester thread |
| Leather | Leather needle | Heavy-duty polyester |
| Thick Knits (Fleece, Sweatshirt) | 90/14 or 100/16 Stretch Needle | Polyester thread |
3. Cutting Thick Fabric
Check you have really sharp scissors, or a rotary cutter and mat, to cut out the fabric with ease. Dull scissors make cutting thick fabric really hard and will hurt your hand.
Rotary cutters are great for straight cuts on thick fabric, but once again, make sure you have a new sharp blade and a protective cutting mat for your table. Cutting rulers should be of the non-slip type as you will need to press harder to cut thick fabric, so are more likely to slip.
Further Reading:
4. Threads for Sewing Thick Fabric
Now you have checked all the preparations are done, it’s time to check your sewing thread types.
Use heavy-duty thread for sewing thick fabric. Strengthened polyester threads and upholstery threads are my favorite choices.
Alternatively, you can sew with a double thread by using the bobbin winder with a bobbin thread as a second thread and pull the two pieces of cotton through the needle together.
Here are some specific tutorials that will help you with some common thick fabrics.
5. Stitches for Thick Fabric
Try out your machine’s straight stitch setting and lengthen the stitch size slightly to 3.5 or 4.5. Check your sewing machine manuals to be sure your machine can manage something a bit thicker than normal.
If you sewing thick fabric with hand stitching, a backstitch is a good strong stitch that will hold seams in thick fabric. You may need to take slightly longer stitches than you would in a fine fabric. Try 1/4 inch (6mm) long stitches and adjust to your preference.
6. Lift the Presser High
See if you can lift your presser foot bar higher to accommodate thicker fabric. My Janome has a spring action to lift the foot higher when necessary. Gently ease the fabric under the foot, ready to sew.
7. Wedges
If your machine is still balking at sewing thicker fabrics, then consider using a wedge to lift the presser foot and get the seam started. This just gives the fabric a little lift at the beginning of your seam.
You can make your own wedge by rolling up a piece of fabric and placing it under the presser foot behind the fabric to be sewn. A piece of cardboard also works. Wedges can also be bought from haberdashery stores and are normally made from rubber or plastic.
8. Hand Turn the Wheel
Remember you can gently pull the flywheel towards you and ease the fabric through if the machine appears to be stressed at the thickness of the fabric. I often do this for the seams as the fabric will be even thicker there. A few hand turns can work wonders and save needles from snapping. Always pull the wheel towards you and not away from you.
9. Choose the Correct Seam
Thick fabrics need seams with no bulk. Rather than a regular straight seam, look at the semi-flat fell seam or flat felled seam. Or if you are making a soft toy or cushion, then trim away some of the bulk by grading seams.
10. Reduce Bulk
Reducing bulk is key as you want the garment to look neat and hang nicely. Grading seams can make a big difference as the bulk in the seam allowance is reduced. Grading means that where you have several layers, some of them will be cut away.
Look at different seam finishes such as a bias bound seam and try out the methods on scraps first. Bias seams work well on jackets where you want the inside to not only be durable but to look nice as well.
French seams may work where you have a large seam allowance and a straight seam with no overlapping seams. Darts can be slashed and pressed open and soft, thin linings in jackets can also help reduce bulk.
11. Use Wide Hems
When sewing thick fabric, the hem is an important finishing touch. Look at the type of hems that won’t be heavy and thick and stop your hem from sitting nicely when worn. Wide hems are best as narrow hems are hard to press and sew. Try a wide hem with bias binding or a zigzag neatening, and catch the top by hand with a catch stitch or by machine.
12. Pressing
Pressing to keep everything neat is important. Always press firmly with a presser cloth and steam iron. Thick fabrics often need more pressing time than thin fabrics, and more care is taken to open seams. A water spray or commercial ironing spray may also help but check a scrap first. You want to be careful about how you treat an expensive wool fabric.
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Sewing Thick Fabric FAQs
Use a denim or heavy-duty needle such as size 100/16 or 110/18.
A longer stitch length of 3.5 to 4.5 mm works best for heavy fabrics.
This usually happens when the needle is too small, the stitch length is too short, or the fabric layers are too bulky.
Conclusion
Sewing thick fabric is easy with the right sewing tools and a little care taken in the choice of seams and finishing techniques. Sewing thick fabric may seem intimidating at first, but with the right sewing tools and machine settings, it becomes much easier. Choosing the correct needle, using heavy-duty thread, and adjusting your stitch length will allow your sewing machine to handle bulky fabrics like denim, canvas, leather, and wool with ease.
Taking the time to test stitches, reduce seam bulk, and sew slowly will prevent common problems such as broken needles or uneven seams. With these simple adjustments, you can confidently sew thick fabrics and create durable garments, bags, and home décor projects.
Sewing Different Kinds of Fabric:
- CHIFFON – Sewing Chiffon
- CANVAS – Sewing Canvas
- COTTON – Sewing Cotton
- DENIM – Sewing Denim
- FELT – Sewing Felt
- FUR – Sewing Fur
- KNITS – How to Sew Stretch Fabric
- INTERFACING – Types of Interfacing
- LACE – How to Sew Lace
- LEATHER – Sewing Leather
- SHEER – Sewing Sheer Fabrics
- SILK – How to Sew Silk
- VELVET Sewing Velvet
- WOOL – Sewing Wool
Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
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I loved your tip of using a backstitch to sew thick fabric when stitching by hand. My brother is wanting to become a tailor and he was wondering how he can get better at fixing simple rips through hand stitching. I’ll be sure to tell him to use backstitching if he’s fixing the problems by hand.