How to Sew Shirring with Elastic Thread (Easy Step-by-Step Guide)

Shirring is a method of sewing elastic thread around the bodice, waist, or back of many women’s sewing patterns to give shape and comfort. This tutorial will teach you how to do shirring with elastic thread. Shirring fabric and sewing with elastic thread is great, as you don’t need to worry about any fiddly zippers, buttons, or dreaded buttonholes. Look in any kid’s boutique, and you will see all sorts of clothing with elastic thread or shirring elastic. For more techniques, learn how to gather fabric step by step.

What is Shirring in Sewing

Shirring is a sewing technique that uses elastic thread in the bobbin to create rows of stretchy gathers in fabric. It is a form of gathering and is the name commonly used for sewing with elastic thread. Sounds easy, right? With a little practice, you will be making perfectly shirred tops, dresses, and skirts, too!

If you are new to sewing elastic, read the full beginner guide on how to sew elastic.

How to Sew with Elastic Thread (Step by Step)

Shirring Settings for Elastic Thread:

Setting	Recommendation
Bobbin	Elastic thread (hand wound)
Top thread	Polyester or all-purpose
Stitch type	Straight stitch
Stitch length	3.5–4.0
Stitch width	0
Tension	Adjust as needed

Here is how to sew shirring with elastic thread:

Supplies for Sewing with Elastic Thread

To sew with elastic thread you will need:

• Elastic thread – It generally comes in black or white, so choose whichever is the best match. Elastic thread comes on a roll, and while it is thicker than sewing thread, it is the thinnest elastic you can get.
• Fabric – Shirring is best done on fine fabrics such as cotton voile, rayon, silk, and polyester. Thicker fabrics will not gather to the same extent and may be harder to control. Even quilting cotton will only give slight gathers so stay with the thinnest fabric you can manage and do a test first.

The elastic will be on the underside of the garment, so unless your fabric is really sheer, you won’t see it when worn. If it really needs to match, you could try dying a white elastic thread. For the best results, purchase a good quality elastic thread like Gutermann or Dritz. Some of the cheaper elastics are overly stretchy, and you may not be happy with the results.

1. Wind a Bobbin with Elastic Thread

Start shirring fabric by winding the bobbin with an elastic thread. Thread the elastic through one of the holes in your bobbin to stop the end from pulling out. Hold on to this as you wind.

Then start hand winding the elastic thread. You can’t wind elastic thread on the machine, I’m afraid.

Don’t worry; it doesn’t take long to wind an elastic thread bobbin, as it is much thicker than regular thread. You will want the bobbin to be not wound too tight. I don’t stretch as I wind, but you will need to experiment to see what works best for your machine. Once you are finished winding, cut off the excess from the hole at the top of the bobbin.

2. Thread the Machine

Start by threading your machine. You will have a regular thread at the top of the machine and the elastic sewing thread at the bobbin. The top of the sewing machine needs to be threaded with a strong all-purpose thread. Generally, you would use a similar color to the top of your fabric so that it blends in.

Put the elastic bobbin in your machine as you normally would. Make sure it is threaded correctly through any tension grooves in the bobbin casing. Shirring is a fairly simple technique, and most people that have trouble discover that the elastic is not in the bobbin groove properly. So check carefully now.

3. Mark the Rows

For small amounts of shirring, I use the edge of my foot as a guide, but wider bands will need the rows marked. Even if you think you can sew straight, it can get out of hand with repeated rows. Use tailor’s chalk or a removable pen that won’t permanently mark the fabric.

I mark rows 1/2 inch (12mm) apart. If you will be sewing narrower rows, then just sew in between every second one. You don’t want to go cross-eyed looking at lots of marked rows. Striped fabric makes your job even easier.

4. Set Machine Settings

Test a scrap of fabric and see if you like the look of the elastic thread and if the stitches look even without any unnecessary looping. If the top or bottom is forming in loops, adjust the sewing machine tension.

• LENGTH – Set your machine to a longer stitch length. I set mine to a 4.0, which is what I would usually use to gather. Some machines will go up to a 6.0 length.
• WIDTH – We will be straight stitching, so the width will be 0. While it is possible to use a zig-zag or decorative stitch, the results are a little less predictable.

The longer the stitch length, the more the elastic thread will gather. For machines with preset lengths, choose a gathering or basting stitch.

5. Start Sewing the Elastic Thread

Backstitch the end, and then start stitching your first row. It may seem a little strange at first, as it often sounds different from normal sewing due to the increased tension in the bobbin. The first row won’t gather up much, but you will notice the elastic gets progressively tighter as you add more rows.

At the end of each row, you can either backstitch and cut off the threads or just move to the next row forming a loop at the end. I prefer back stitching even though it does use a little more elastic due to the long tails.

6. More Rows of Sewing Elastic Thread

Once you have sewn your first row, start sewing the second row at about 1/4 – 1/2 inches (6-12mm) apart. I like to use the edge of my presser foot as a guide.

It is very important that you stretch out the elastic in front of the foot. You need to be sewing over FLAT fabric.

If you run out of shirring thread before you have finished, leave a long tail and then start when you finished. Tie the ends of the tails together on the inside. If possible, keep an eye on the amount of elastic thread in your bobbin and try and end at one of the sides. You would be surprised how much elastic thread you will go through for sewing shirring.

7. Press the Shirring Fabric

Once you have finished, gently press the fabric with a hot steam iron. Don’t pull the iron along the gathers, but simply press on top and then move to the next section. This will give your shirring finer gathers.

Troubleshooting Sewing Shirring

If you find that your elastic thread sewing doesn’t look right, try some of these troubleshooting tips.

• If you find that your elastic is becoming uneven and loopy at the back, just check that the bobbin elastic thread has not come out of the tension groove.
• Stop immediately if your sewing machine sounds really straining. Check the bobbin is not wound too tight and is pulling through the bobbin groove.
• If in doubt, rethread both the top and elastic bobbin threads.
• You may have to rewind the bobbin if it is not pulling through smoothly.
• Always check the sewing machine tension if you get loopy stitching.

Pin for Later

Clothing Made by Shirring with Elastic Thread

Because it is often hard to predict how much the shirring will gather up, it is easier to sew the item flat and then sew the seam last. For example, when sewing a shirred bodice with seams on either side, sew one seam and leave the other one open. That way, you will be sewing it all flat. When you have finished, check the fit and then sew the remaining seam making it tighter if necessary.

Washing Items with Elastic Thread

Elastic sewing thread can perish over time or with harsh washing chemicals and particularly with clothes dryers. Avoid tumble drying at all costs! Make your hard work last by hand washing items with shirring them in cold water with a mild detergent.

Shirring vs Smocking

Smocking stitches are a very traditional art similar to shirring that uses lines of gathering. It is not stretchy like shirring, although the look can be quite similar. Fabric is gathered into small pleats using parallel rows of running stitches. Once gathered, it is hand-stitched with various embroidery patterns. Below you can see a chevron pattern.

Alternatives to Sewing with Elastic Thread

The only real alternative to sewing with elastic thread shirring is to gather using a casing or sewn-on elastic. This will use thicker elastic to control the gathers in the bodice, waist, or skirt top. Further Reading: Gathering with Elastic

Looking for More on Sewing Elastic? Learn all about sewing elastic for waistbands and fabric edges with this easy tutorial that will show you the best methods for various items.

Shirring FAQs

Shirring with Elastic Thread – In Conclusion

Shirring is a simple yet powerful technique that allows you to create stretchy, comfortable garments with ease. By using elastic thread in the bobbin, you can achieve beautiful gathered effects without complicated construction methods. With a little practice, shirring becomes an essential sewing skill for creating fitted bodices, skirts, and decorative details.

1. Types of Elastic for Sewing
2. How to Sew Leotard Elastic
3. Sewing Fold Over Elastic
4. How to Gather Knit Fabric with Elastic
5. Ruching
6. Sewing Lingerie Elastic
7. Binding Leotards and Swimsuits
8. Sewing Elastic