Single Fold Hem – How to Sew Simple Hems

A single fold hem is one of the easiest and least bulky ways to finish the edge of a garment. Unlike a double-fold hem, the fabric is folded only once after the raw edge has been finished, making it ideal for thicker fabrics where multiple layers would create too much bulk. Single fold hems are commonly used on skirts, dresses, jackets, coats, and home décor projects made from medium to heavyweight fabrics. In this tutorial, you’ll learn how to sew a single-fold hem step by step, when to use it, and why it may be a better choice than a traditional double-fold hem.

What is a Single Fold Hem?

Asingle fold hem is just a piece of fabric, at the hem’s length, folded back, and stitched down. It is most useful when the reverse of the material won’t be seen in the finished article. This method is ideal for lightweight fabrics and provides a clean, professional finish.

When to Use a Single Fold Hem

A single fold hem is best used when a double-fold hem would create too much bulk. Because the fabric is only folded once, it creates a flatter finish on medium to heavyweight fabrics while still providing a durable edge.

Single fold hems are commonly used for:

• Wool skirts and dresses
• Denim garments
• Jackets and coats
• Felt and boucle fabrics
• Home décor projects such as curtains and table linens
• Thick fabrics that are difficult to fold twice

Before creating a single fold hem, the raw edge is usually finished with a serger, overlock stitch, or zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying. This makes the hem less bulky while still giving a neat, professional finish. If you are sewing lightweight fabrics that fray easily, a double-fold hem is usually a better choice because it completely encloses the raw edge.

Read the full how to sew a hem guide for beginners that outlines 10 easy hemming methods.

How to Sew a Single Fold Hem (Step by Step)

There are a few steps to consider. This is a simple hem, and although it is called a single fold hem, it does have a few steps in the process to get the best results.

Step 1 – Neaten the Edge

You will need to neaten the raw edge of the fabric. Consider a zigzag or a serger to neaten the edge to prevent the hem from fraying. Remember, when you neaten the edge, you must neaten evenly all around the hem edge, so the single fold that comes later is going to be even when you fold it over.

Step 2 – Pin the Hem

Measure the hem length and turn your hem up to that length. Measure carefully all around and pin the hem with straight pins inserted vertically.

Step 3 – Press

Press the hem to make sure it lies flat. You will want the hem to be flat and sitting correctly because it will not have the additional turnover at the top as a double-fold hem would have. A single fold hem is usually a narrower hem than a double fold. 

Press with a presser cloth flat along the edge. This is a different technique from an ironing process. The pressing should be with a flat pressing action, not ironing from side to side action. Make sure you have removed the pins so the fabric is flat and pin marks will not be evident.

Step 4 – Stitch

Stitch the hem. There are 2 different ways to stitch a single-fold hem including machine stitching or hand stitching.  Machine-stitching is quicker but more visible. Hand stitching takes longer, but the finished look is neater.  The choice of stitch will depend on the type of fabric and the finished look you want on the front of the garment. Time is another factor, keeping in mind that machine stitching is much quicker.

Machine Stitching a Single Fold Hem

Choose a machine stitch and check your sewing machine tension before starting. A stitch that pulls and puckers will not finish the hem professionally. If you neatened with a serger, then stitch in the middle of the serger stitching space. This will add to the strength of the machine stitching. Practice on scrap and get the tension right before you start.

Hand Stitching a Single Fold Hem

The best hem stitching is a blind hem stitch or a slip stitch. Catch part of the neatened edge and the fabric using a matching thread for a neat finish. The stitching will work at the back of the garment.

• Start with a knot between the hem and the wrong side of the fabric. 
• When your thread is secure, pull your sewing needle towards you. 
• Pick up a few threads in the fabric just beneath the edge stitch of the single fold hem. 
• Then insert the needle through the serged or neatened edge stitch and pull through towards yourself. 
• Continue stitching in this way, leaving a small space between each stitch. Remember, there is no fold to slip your needle and thread through. The loops of the serger, if you use one, will provide the threads to use for the slip stitching.

Catch stitch also makes a firm hand-stitched hemming stitch and can be done without neatening the raw edge.

Modern machines have many different decorative stitches available.  Try out other wavy lines and zigzag stitches in various thread colors for some exciting ideas.

Tips for Sewing a Single Fold Hems

Gadgets never go out of fashion. Look for a seam gauge. It is really a time saver. Use the seam gauge to pin your seam at a consistent edge height. A turning of 3/8 to 5/8 inch (1cm to 1.5cm) is a recommended standard hem width. Set the hem at the width you want, then use the edge of the sewing machine foot and markings on the plate guide of the machine to gauge straight sewing

Alternatives to a Single Fold Hem

The main alternative to the single fold hem is the double fold hem, where the hem is pressed over twice. This gives a neat folded edge with no raw edges showing. The only disadvantage of the double fold hem is that it adds bulk to the hem and stiffness that you don’t have in single fold hems.

Single Fold Hem FAQs

Pin for Later

In Conclusion

A single fold hem works beautifully on a lined garment. It hangs neatly, and the lining hangs over the hem as the final neatening. It really does an excellent job of finishing off a pair of long pants as it enables the hem to drop lightly into place and eliminates unsightly bulk. The single fold hem may be considered a beginner’s technique, but it is one of those processes that will be useful for the sewing newbie and the more experienced seamstress.

More Hems to Sew:

1. GENERAL HEMS – How to Sew a Hem
2. NARROW HEMS – How to Sew a Narrow Hem
3. ROLLED HEM FOOT – How to Use a Rolled Hem Foot
4. WIDE HEMS – How to Sew Wide Hems
5. CIRCULAR HEMS – How to Sew Circular Hems
6. BLIND HEMS – How to Sew a Blind Hem
7. RUFFLED HEMS – Lettuce Hems
8. KNIT FABRIC HEMS – How to Hem Knit Fabric
9. KNIT HEMS – Twin Needle
10. SQUARE HEMS – How to Sew Mitered Corners
11. SCALLOPED HEMS – Scalloped Edges Hems
12. PANTS HEMS – How to Hem Pants
13. DOUBLE HEM – Double Fold Hem
14. HEMMING TAPE (NO SEW) How to use Hemming Tape
15. HAND STITCH HEMS – Hemming Stitch – Best Hand Stitches for Hems
16. HAND HEM – How to Sew Catch Stitch Easily
17. SHIRT HEMS – Sewing Shirt Hems