Slip Stitch: Invisible Hand Stitch for Hems
Slip stitch is a nearly invisible hand sewing stitch used for hems, folded edges, bindings, and delicate sewing finishes. Because most of the stitching stays hidden inside the fold of the fabric, slip stitch creates clean professional hems with very little visible stitching on the outside. Slip stitch is especially useful for hand-sewn hems, waistbands, collars, cuffs, and fine finishing work on garments. This tutorial will show you how to sew slip stitch for hems and repairs.
How Big is a Yard of Fabric (Quick Guide)
Slip stitch is a nearly invisible hand sewing stitch used for hems and folded fabric edges.
- Fold and press the hem
- Hide the knot inside the fold
- Pick up a few threads of fabric
- Slip the needle through the fold
- Repeat with evenly spaced stitches
What is Slip Stitch Sewing?
Slip stitch is a hand sewing stitch commonly used for hems, folded edges, bindings, and delicate hand finishing. The stitches are sewn mostly inside the folded fabric edge, making the stitching nearly invisible from the right side of the garment. Slip stitch is often confused with ladder stitch because both create hidden stitching, but slip stitch is mainly used for hems and folded edges, while ladder stitch is commonly used to close openings in pillows, toys, and seams.
Learn more beginner hand sewing techniques in the complete hand stitching guide.
Supplies to Sew a Slip Stitch
- Hand sewing needle
- Matching thread
- Thimble
- Scissors
- Pins
The ultimate choice of the best thread for slip stitch does depend on your fabric type, but here are some guidelines. Use a lighter thread weight and a high-quality thread that will not break when pulled tight. A matching color will help since the slip stitch for hems or seams should not be visible. Match the thread to the fabric. For example, use a cotton thread for cotton fabric. If you want a truly invisible slip stitch, there are clear nylon threads available.
How to Sew Slip Stitch (Step by Step)
Slipstitch is usually used for sewing wide hems. Use a matching thread for an invisible result. This method of slip stitch is also used for closing waistbands, collars and cuffs.
1. Press the Hem
You will be working on the wrong side of the garment. Prepare the hem to be stitched by folding and ironing as well as pinning it in place. Using single thread will produce finer stitches which will be less visible on the right side of the fabric.
The slip part of the stitch is going to hide in the fold of the fabric. For my sample, I pressed my hem by 1/4 inch (6mm), then 1 inch (2.5cm) again for a double hem.
2. Hide the Knot
Unfold the fold of the hem to start. Begin with the needle and thread inserted in the fold. Bring the needle through the fold, ready for the first stitch. You will be working right to left.
3. First Slip Stitch
Pick up a few threads with the needle in the space just under the fold of the hem. This is to catch the fabric of the main part of the garment. Make these stitches neat and even, as this is the only part that will show on the outside. Usually, just a few threads are enough to anchor the hem.
4. Needle into the Hem
Push the needle back into the fold of the hem and slip it along in the fold for about 1/4 inch (6mm).
5. Pull Slip Stitches Tight
Gently pull the thread taut and repeat – catch another few threads of the main fabric, then slip back into the fold again.
6. Finishing Slip Stitch
Continue in this way for the length of the hem or seam closure. Finish off inside the fold with a double stitch to close off the thread.
When your hem or seam closure is complete, you will be very happy with the result. Slip stitch, when carefully completed, hardly shows on the right side. Most of the threads are hidden in the fold as the needle is slipped in there and out again, catching the threads of the main fabric along the way.
Slip Stitch vs Ladder Stitch
Slip stitch and ladder stitch are both nearly invisible hand sewing techniques, but they are used differently. Slip stitch is mainly used for hems, bindings, waistbands, and folded fabric edges, while ladder stitch is commonly used for closing openings in pillows, toys, and seam repairs.
| Slip Stitch | Ladder Stitch |
|---|---|
| Used for hems | Used for seam closures |
| Sewn inside folded edge | Sewn across openings |
| Ideal for garments | Ideal for toys and pillows |
| Mostly hidden in fold | Pulls seam closed invisibly |
Tips for Sewing Slip Stitch
Using matching thread, small stitches, and neatly pressed folds will help create an invisible slip stitch finish. A single thread is usually less visible than a double thread and is especially well-suited to delicate fabrics and formal garments. Slip stitch can become visible if the stitches are too large or the thread tension is too tight. Taking small, even stitches and using matching thread will help create a professional invisible finish.
| Common Mistake | Tip |
|---|---|
| Visible stitches | Use matching thread |
| Uneven hem | Press folds carefully |
| Puckered fabric | Avoid pulling tightly |
| Crooked stitches | Pin hem before sewing |
| Tangled thread | Use shorter thread lengths |
How to Slip Stitch FAQS
While you can’t close seams with a slip stitch on sewing machines, you can do a similar stitch for hems. The blind hem stitch on sewing machines creates a hem with an almost invisible finish on the outside.
If you have a small gap in a seamed edge, then the slip stitch is best as it will give an almost invisible finish to the seam.
Slip stitch is used for hems, folded edges, waistbands, cuffs, linings, and delicate sewing finishes where nearly invisible stitching is needed.
Yes, slip stitch is one of the best hand sewing stitches for hems because the stitches remain mostly hidden inside the folded fabric edge.
Pin for Later
How to Sew Slip Stitch – In Conclusion
Slip stitch is a useful beginner hand sewing technique that creates nearly invisible hems and folded edges with very little visible stitching. Because the stitches stay mostly hidden inside the fabric fold, slip stitch is ideal for garments, formalwear, waistbands, cuffs, and delicate sewing finishes. Once you master slip stitch, you can create professional-looking hand-sewn hems and invisible finishing details with ease.
- Whipstitch
- Catch Stitch
- How to Sew a Wide Hem
- Hemming Stitch – Best Hand Stitches for Hems
- Invisible Ladder Stitch
- Tailor’s Tacks
- How to Hand Sew for Beginners
How to Sew Slip Stitch
Difficulty
Tools
- Hand Sewing Needle
- Thread
Materials
- Fabric
Instructions
- Press the hem over twice by ¼ inch (6mm), then 1 inch (2.5cm) again for a double hem. Unfold the fold of the hem to start. Begin with the needle and thread inserted in the fold. Bring the needle through the fold, ready for the first stitch.
- Pick up a few threads with the needle in the space just under the fold of the hem.
- Push the needle back into the fold of the hem and slip it along in the fold for about ¼ inch (6mm).
- Gently pull the thread taut and repeat – catch another few threads of the main fabric, then slip back into the fold again.
Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
