Stretch Stitch: Best Stretch Stitches for Sewing Knits

A stretch stitch is a sewing machine stitch designed to stretch with knit fabrics without breaking. Unlike regular straight stitches, stretch stitches flex as the fabric moves, making them essential for sewing leggings, swimwear, t-shirts, activewear, and knit garments. Modern sewing machines include several options such as zig-zag, lightning bolt stitch, triple knit stitch, and tricot. In this tutorial, you’ll learn the best stretch stitches for sewing knits, when to use them, and how to prevent popped seams and puckering.

What is a Stretch Stitch?

A stretch stitch is a machine or hand stitch that does not break when the fabric is flexed. It will have similar properties to the stretch fabric on which it is sewn. If you do not use a stretch stitch, then your seams will break when the garment is worn.

Learn more beginner sewing machine stitches.

Once you learn how to sew stretch stitches and that they are not scary, it will open up a whole new world of sewing patterns. Knit fabric patterns are so much faster and easier since they only need limited pressing and no seam finishing. Of course, most of you know you can sew knit fabrics with your serger, but this article will go through all the stretch stitches you will find on your regular sewing machine.

Best Stretch Stitches for Sewing Knits

Here are some options you may not be aware of on your machine. This is good news for these sewing enthusiasts who do not have the luxury of a serger. A stretch stitch can be made using a standard automatic sewing machine.

Stretch Stitch	Best For	Stretch Level
Zig Zag Stitch	General knit seams	High
Triple Stretch Stitch	Sportswear	Medium
Three-Step Zig Zag	Delicate knits	High
Lightning Bolt Stitch	Stretch seams	High
Overedge Stitch	Seam finishing	Medium

It is always a good idea to try out your stitches on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use. Tweak the setting of the stitches until you find the right length and width for the fabric. To test your stretch stitch, pull at the seam to ensure the stitches do not break. If they don’t easily break, you are ready to go!

1. The Zigzag

2. The Straight Triple

3. The Three-Step Zigzag

4. The Lightning Bolt Stitch

5. Other Decorative Stretchy Stitches

1. Honeycomb Stitch – This is perfect for attaching elastic to any fabric and for knit fabrics too. It makes a beautiful border for adding stretch lace to a garment.
2. Overedge Stitch – This stitch is very similar to the stitch on a serger.  The overedge stitch gives you a straight and zigzag stitch at the same time. It is sometimes called the overlock stitch on a machine, but it does not have a cutter to trim the seam edges. You can try this alternative to the overlock and trim away the edge with a sharp pair of scissors, and then the cut, sew, and trim function of a serger or overlocker machine will have been performed.
3. Feather Stitch – This decorative stitch looks lovely as an edging on a collar or cuff.  It is a simple stitch and fits well with knit fabrics as it is a light but firm stitch.

Recommended Stretch Stitch Settings

When sewing elastic seams, it is important to set your sewing machine correctly. Here is a table showing the best settings:

Stitch	Width	Length
Narrow Zig Zag	1.5	2.5
Three-Step Zig Zag	3.0	2.0
Lightning Bolt	Default	Default

Sewing a Stretch Stitch by Hand

Knit fabrics are comfortable and soft to wear, and if you do not have a machine or if there is a little tight spot in the garment’s design, you need to use a hand-sewn, stretch stitch. 

Here is a step-by-step approach to hand sew stretch fabric:

1. Find the right needle to sew your stretch fabric. A fine needle is best because it will slip through the fabric with ease.
2. Choose the correct thread for the hand sewing. A polyester thread is a good choice. Find a color that matches the fabric as closely as possible.
3. Secure the thread to the fabric. A double backstitch or a firm knot is the way to choose.
4. Thread the needle through a few threads along with the fabric, going from left to right. Pull the needle and thread up, but not too tightly.
5. Use a herringbone stitch.

This method of sewing a few stitches from left to right along the stitching line has the same effect as a stretch stitch. It is a slow way to sew fabric, but it is an excellent way to complete the task in certain situations. The hand-sewn stretch stitch is perfect on delicate fabrics. 

How to Sew Stretch Fabric Without Puckering

Stretch fabrics can easily pucker or develop wavy seams if they are not sewn correctly. The best way to prevent puckering is to avoid stretching the fabric while sewing and to use the correct stitch, needle, and machine settings. A narrow zig-zag stitch or lightning bolt stitch usually works best because the seam can flex with the fabric.

Always use a ballpoint or stretch needle when sewing knit fabrics, as sharp needles can damage the fibers and cause skipped stitches. Polyester thread is also recommended because it has slight flexibility and is less likely to snap when the fabric stretches.

If your seams still look wavy, try reducing the machine tension slightly and sewing more slowly. A walking foot can also help feed stretchy fabrics when you sew.

Stretch Stitch FAQs

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Stretch Stitch – In Conclusion

Stretch stitches allow knit fabric garments to move comfortably without breaking seams. Whether you use a zig-zag stitch, lightning bolt stitch, or three-step zig-zag, choosing the correct stitch helps prevent puckering and popped seams while creating durable, professional-looking knit garments. Beginners can start with a narrow zig-zag before experimenting with decorative and specialty stretch stitches for activewear, swimwear, and knit sewing projects.