Tailor’s Tacks (Step-by-Step Sewing Guide)

Tailor’s tacks are a traditional sewing technique for transferring pattern markings onto fabric with thread rather than chalk or pens. This method is especially useful when working with delicate or thick fabrics where other marking tools may damage or fail. In this tutorial, you will learn how to sew tailor’s tacks step by step, including how to mark darts and dots, which fabrics work best, and when to use this professional tailoring technique for accurate garment construction.

What are Tailor’s Tacks?

Tailor’s tacks are hand-sewn threads used to mark darts, pattern markings, and to transfer details from a paper pattern onto the fabric. They are used when traditional marking methods can not be used either due to the delicacy or thickness of the fabric. Tailor’s tacks are commonly used in suitmaking and haute couture.

If you have a special fabric for which using tailor’s chalk or removable pen is not suitable, then consider going old school and using tailor’s tacks. Tailor’s tacks use thread to transfer markings and so won’t damage your fabric.  With a bit of practice, it won’t take you much longer than other methods of marking fabrics.

Use tailor’s tacks for:

• Delicate fabrics
• Thick fabrics

Tailor’s tacks can be sewn through a single or double layer of fabric. This is particularly useful for bust darts that will be on both sides of the bodice. You don’t want double the work! Thicker fabrics, such as wool, may be easier to sew in single layers.

How to Sew Tailor’s Tacks (Step by Step)

Tailors tacks can be used to mark both darts and dots. Here are the step-by-step instructions for marking fabric without chalk.

1. How to Mark Darts with Tailor’s Tacks

Here is how to make darts using simple tailor’s tacks:

1. Thread your needle with a double thread in a high-contrast color. There is no need to knot the end for a tailor’s tack.
2. Put the paper pattern on top of your fabric. Normally, the fabric would already be cut out. If you can’t pin your pattern to the fabric to cut out, use pattern weights or cans from your pantry.
3. Insert the needle through the paper and both thicknesses of fabric. Leave a 2-inch (5cm) thread tail at the end, so there is no danger of it pulling through.
4. Stitch through the pattern in an up-and-down running stitch, leaving loops about 1 inch (2.5cm) high.
5. At the end, leave a long tail again and cut the thread.
6. Once you have done this for all your markings, cut through all your loops.
7. Remove the pattern. Be careful you don’t pull any stitches out.
8. If you are marking one layer of fabric, you are done.
9. For two layers of fabric – starting at the outside edge of the fabric, gently separate the layers. Cut through the loops between the 2 layers of fabric. For a dart, you will need to do this one stitch at a time.
10. Because your tailor’s tacks are loose, be careful when handling the fabric. Lay it gently aside until you are ready to sew.

2. How to Mark Dots Using Tailor’s Tacks

Using tailor’s tacks for dots is even easier than darts. Once again, use a contrasting color and a thicker thread.

1. Thread the needle double, and don’t knot the end.
2. Put the needle down on one side of the dot and come up on the other side, leaving a long tail.
3. Put the needle back in the first side and come up on the other side but this time, leave a large loop sticking out. My tails and loops are around 1 inch (2.5cm) high. The reason for sewing through twice is to make thicker threads that are less likely to accidentally pull through.
4. Cut the loop and end, leaving a tail.
5. Carefully lift the paper pattern over the ends.
6. For fabric that is double, separate the layers gently and cut in between.

Best Fabrics for Tailor’s Tacks

FABRICS WITH A PILE – Winter fabrics with a pile, such as wool and polar fleece, and some knits can benefit from using tailor’s tacks as they are hard to use tailor’s chalk on due to the fabric nap. Pins will just fall out of really thick fabric or may get lost and prick you later when the garment is finished.

FINE FABRICS – Delicate fabrics such as silk that may damage with pens or chalk are often marked with tailor’s tacks. Couture fashion is marked with thread, as designers can’t risk any chalk or pens near their expensive fabrics.

Would you want to risk pens and chalk on these dresses? That pink silk would show every mark and certainly wouldn’t be washed before being sent to the catwalk. Tailors tacking stitch is a much better option in this case.

Alternatives to Tailor’s Tacks

The alternative to tailor’s tacks is to mark the fabric either with pins, chalk, or another removable pen suitable for the fabric. If your fabric is delicate, then the tailor’s chalk is usually best, but you should always test first. When using thick fabrics with a pile, safety pins can be used instead of pins that may disappear into the fabric.

Further Reading

• Marking Tools
• Marking Fabric

Pin for Later

Tailor’s Tacks – In Conclusion

Tailor’s tacks are a reliable and professional method for transferring pattern markings without damaging fabric. This traditional technique is widely used in couture sewing, tailoring, and dressmaking because it works equally well on delicate and thick fabrics. Once mastered, tailor’s tacks help improve sewing accuracy and ensure cleaner, more precise garment construction.

• Marking Fabric
• How to Cut Fabric for Sewing
• Basting Stitches
• How to Pin Fabric
• Sewing Darts
• Marking Tools