16 Types of Denim for Clothing

Learn all about what is denim and the types of denim. Denim is many things to many people and is probably one of the most popular fabrics on the market.  It is practical, hard-working, and a fabric used almost universally. Continue reading to learn all you need to know about denim.

Types of Denim Tutorial

What is Denim?

Denim is a 100% cotton fabric that is durable and rugged. It has a twill weave, which results in a diagonal ribbing pattern across the fabric. The diagonal twill pattern in denim makes the fabric last, and the design provides a nice drape.

When denim is woven, the warp thread is colored indigo, and the weft thread has no color. (Read about warp and weft) That is why jeans are white and blue on the outside. The weave of indigo dye threads and white thread makes denim look appealing.

What is Denim Made Of?

Denim is primarily cotton, but modern fabrics may add polyester or Lycra.

History of Denim

Made from cotton, denim originated from the French city of De Nimes. The fabric was originally known as Serge de Nimes but the name has evolved over the years to denim.

When Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss first began making work clothes from denim for miners in the mid-1800s, they had no idea how popular this fabric and the humble jeans would be. 

Different Types of Denim

Stretch denim, crushed denim and stonewashed denim are all types of denim.  Knowing the qualities of different denims helps the sewer to choose the right pattern for each type of denim.

Here are the different types of denim fabric:

1. Raw Denim

This denim fabric has not been washed or treated in any way and is the first stage of the denim journey. 

It is dark blue in color and will slowly fade with washing. Because it is not treated, it is stiff to wear and will last a long time, especially if you don’t wash it very often. Alternative names are dry denim or unwashed denim.

2. Sanforized Denim

Sanforized denim is raw denim that has been treated for some shrinkage. Hardcore denim fans like the really rough and tough state of raw denim, and the sanforized process stops the shrinkage from happening.

It is important to know if your raw denim is sanforized, as if it is not, you may need to go up a size to allow for shrinkage. The label may refer to this type of denim as pre-shrunk.

3. Indigo Dyed Denim

This is the most common of the types of denim. Indigo-dyed denim has the warp thread dyed while the weft thread is left white. This gives denim its distinctive blue look and results in the lighter look you see on the inside of denim clothing.

Indigo is the name of the blue dye that was originally used which came from an indigo plant. Today a synthetic version of blue dye is used but still retains the indigo name.

4. Color Dyed Denim

Sulphur dye gives denim its different colors. Mustard, green, grey, red, and even pink are all colors and shades that represent the denim color spectrum. These dyes may also be combined with other colored dyes to produce unique and colorful denim.

5. Selvage Denim (Selvedge or self-edge)

Selvedge denim has a color along the sides to prevent the edges from fraying. Generally, when the selvage is used in the seams of jeans, they are considered better quality. The selvage is often red or orange but can be any color, depending on the manufacturer. The alternative to using the selvages in jeans is to use the raw edges and overlock to prevent fraying.

6. Acid Wash Denim

To create acid-wash denim, a pumice stone soaked in chlorine is used to scrub the fabric.  It can also be produced with chemical acids put into the wash. The color scrubbed fades and produces a mottled, washed, and worn look. This look was popular in the 1980s and has had numerous recurrences.

7. Stone Wash Denim

Stonewash is done with pumice stones to remove the dye and abrase the fabric to give a lived-in look. Stonewash is a little harder to control and may give an uneven abrasion. Items made from these types of denim do not last as long.

8. Crushed Denim

Crushed denim is treated to have a wrinkled or crumpled look. It is often used with other processes, such as acid or stone wash, to give a truly worn look. These wrinkles will not come out in the wash

9. Poly Denim

Poly-cotton fibers are mixed with the denim to create the fabric.  It is soft and popular denim for clothing.

10. Stretch denim

Spandex or Lycra can be infused into denim fabric to give it some stretch quality. This type of denim is a dream to wear as it is so comfortable and is mainly used for tight jeans.

11. Bull Denim

Bull denim is a tough, sturdy denim made from 100% cotton. It is used for upholstery, curtaining, and clothing and comes in various weights. Evenly dyed in a variety of colors, it is soft on one side and has a noticeable weave.

12. Ecru denim

Ecru denim has not been dyed and comes in the natural color of cotton. It is a pale, creamy color.

13. Organic Denim

In organic denim, no chemicals are used in cotton growth or manufacturing. Like all things organic, this is considered a healthier alternative to regular denim.  

14. Lightweight Denim

Many types of chambray fabrics and Tencel fabrics are marketed as light denim. These fabrics make light jeans and jackets that are soft to the touch.

15. Marble Denim

Marble denim is a type of denim fabric that features a distinctive marbled appearance. Typically, the denim is treated with bleach or a similar chemical agent to create a pattern reminiscent of marble, with streaks and spots of lighter color against the darker denim background.

16. Slub Denim Types

Slub denim is a type of denim characterized by its unique texture, which is created by using slub yarns. These yarns are uneven and vary in thickness, resulting in a fabric with a slightly rough, textured surface. This texture is not uniform; it has random, lumpy, and knotty characteristics, giving the denim a distinctive and rustic appearance.

Types of Denim by Weight

Denim fabric comes in a range of weights, which can significantly affect the denim garment’s look, feel, and durability. The weight of denim is typically measured in ounces per square yard. Some manufacturers may use metric measurements of grams per square meter.

Here are the general categories of denim weights:

Denim Weight	Weight (oz/y)	Characteristics	Common Uses
Lightweight Denim	Under 12 oz	Soft, flexible, less warm, less durable	Shirts, summer jeans, dresses
Mid-Weight Denim	12 oz to 16 oz	Stiff, very durable, takes longer to break in, warm, distinct wear patterns	Most common for jeans, versatile for various garments
Heavyweight Denim	Over 16 oz	Stiff, very durable, takes longer to break in, warm	Cold climate items

Types of Denim Embellishment

On top of so many different types of denim, numerous embellishment techniques can be used. These include rhinestones, painting, applique, and embroidery.

• Sewing Rhinestones
• Fabric Painting
• Reverse Applique
• Applique
• How to Embroider
• How to Fray Fabric

What is Denim Used For?

This cotton fabric is most widely used in clothing. Some clothing pieces that use denim are jeans, skirts, jackets, blouses, trench coats, and vests. For accessories, denim can make belts, bags, shoes, and hats.

Denim is widely used not only in fashion but also in homewares. It has been used in creating blankets or duvets, drapes or curtains, pillows, and upholsteries.

What is Denim Sewn With?

You need to make several adjustments to sew denim, including using sharp scissors, the correct needle and thread, and testing a scrap. Always take your time, and don’t push your machine.

• Use Sharp Scissors – Sharp scissors are a must in sewing any fabric. Though it is obvious, you must always remember not to settle for dull scissors.
• Use Denim Needles – You should use jean needles when sewing denim. If you cannot find jeans needles, you can use a universal needle with a size of at least 90/14 or 100/16 if you will work on thicker denim. You just need to remember to match the needles you will use to the thickness of the fabric you will work on. With denim, you need at least 90.

• Use the Appropriate Thread – You can use an all-purpose thread for regular seams. However, you can opt for the heavy-duty thread if you do topstitching with flat felled seams. A substitute you can use is upholstery thread. It is thick and similar to the topstitching thread used in jeans. However, cotton jeans thread is smoother and less prone to damage your machine and fabric.
• Do Not Rush – This is another obvious tip worth reminding you of. Denim has many parts where you may need to manually turn the flywheel due to the thickness. This is normal. To make it easier for you, try not to rush. The last thing you want to do is unpick!

Types of Denim FAQs

Which Denim Fabric is Best

The best type of denim depends on your purpose and desired comfort level. Denim made from 100% cotton in a darker color will last the longest and be comfortable for looser jeans and jackets. If you want to wear tight jeans, then a bit of stretch in your denim makes all the difference if you need to bend and stretch or are sitting down all day.

How Can you Tell if Denim is High Quality?

The quality of fabric can be hard to see at first glance but look for a label that shows the denim is 100% cotton. If you are buying jeans or a jacket look at the quality of the stitching, the uniformity of the denim fabric (there shouldn’t be pulled threads) and the quality of the types of buttons and zippers. Before buying, check the laundry symbols and whether this denim is going to be easy to care for and suit your lifestyle.

Is Denim Naturally Blue?

Denim is dyed with a blue dye. Originally, this was a natural indigo type of dye, but modern denim is dyed with a synthetic version.

What are Denim Weights

Denim is classified by its weight per square yard. It will be rated in ounces, ranging from 5 to 32oz.

Types of Denim – In Conclusion

Denim crosses barriers of age and gender as it reigns supreme as a durable and fashionable fabric.  Choose the types of denim that appeal to you and fit your sewing requirements.

More Fabrics

1. CHIFFON – Sewing Chiffon
2. BATIK – What is Batik
3. CANVAS – Sewing Canvas
4. COTTON – Sewing Cotton
5. DENIM – Sewing Denim
6. FELT – Sewing Felt
7. FUR – Sewing Fur
8. KNITS – How to Sew Stretch Fabric
9. INTERFACING – Types of Interfacing
10. LACE – How to Sew Lace
11. LEATHER – Sewing Leather
12. RAYON – Sewing Rayon
13. SHEER – Sewing Sheer Fabrics
14. SILK – How to Sew Silk
15. THICK – Sewing Thick Fabrics
16. VELVET Sewing Velvet
17. WOOL – Sewing Wool