Types of Interfacing

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Are the types of interfacing making you confused? Here is an easy guide to help you on your way. Interfacing is a modern way to share a skill or communicate. You can interface on the computer, or you can interface on networks. AND…you can interface in a material world. So sing along ‘ Material Girl’ while you learn about interfacing, in a material world.

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What is Interfacing?

Interfacing is a woven or non-woven fabric that is used to stiffen certain areas of garments and sewing projects. It is sewn or fused to the wrong side of the fabric to give structure and shape. Common places it is used include collars and cuffs, underneath buttoned areas, in waistbands and in many home decor projects.

Interfacing is predominantly white but can also be black or grey. It is very rarely colored.

Why do we use interfacing?

Some of the most common reasons we use interfacing are:

It gives shape, support and stability to the framework of garments
Interfacing gives weight and warmth to quilting items
It gives body to some otherwise flimsy fabric
It provides stability to fabric that is to be embroidered
Interfacing adds to the professional look of a finished garment

There are 6 main types of interfacing.

Woven interfacing: This looks like woven fabric. If you look at the image below you can see a definite weave in the fabric. Cutting with the grain is important as the bias will have a slight stretch.
Non- woven interfacing: Non-woven interfacing is bonded and has a texture that looks like paper. It does not have a grain and can be cut in any direction.
Knit interfacing: This has a bit of stretch and so is useful for interfacing knit fabrics.
Fusible interfacing: This interfacing has glue on the back and can be pressed on with a steam iron which makes the interfacing adhere to the fabric.
Non-fusible interfacing: This can be woven or non-woven. If the interfacing is non-fusible, then it must be stitched in place. This type of interfacing can give a garment a freer look when completed.
Double-sided fusible: There is also a double-sided fusible type of interfacing that bonds with the fabric on both sides. I use this extensively when sewing appliques. It holds your pieces in place and stops the edges from fraying.

How to Apply Interfacing

It is always advisable to read the instructions that accompany the interfacing before you start to apply it to your material.

Pre-wash your interfacing and fabric. Soak it in some cold water, then dry before using it in case it shrinks. You don’t want your fabric or interfacing to shrink at a different rate after they have been fused as this will lead to wrinkles on the outside of your item.

Test the interfacing on a scrap of fabric to make sure the outcome and feel is what you want. Most interfacing can feel quite different when fused to fabric. They may be stiffer or softer than you expect.

Non-fusible interfacing will need to be stitched in with a basting stitch to keep it in place and then stitched with the garment. You may need to remove these stitches at the end if they are still visible. Use a contrasting colored thread to pull the basting stitches out easily.

Valuable Fusible Interfacing Tips:

Check that you are going to apply the shiny side to the fabric wrong side and that your iron is at the right temperature. Use a pressing cloth and avoid contact with the interfacing and your iron!
Ensure fusible interfacing will not cause wrinkles on the outside of your fabric.
Always use a presser cloth to stop fusible interfacing sticking to the iron.
Wait for the fabric to cool before continuing to sew. This enables the glue from the interfacing to bond onto the fabric and dry.
If you should get some interfacing on the iron, then let the iron cool before peeling off the interfacing that is stuck to the iron.

Weights of Interfacing:

It is important not to use a weight of interfacing that is heavier than the fabric that you are sewing.

Featherweight is light and durable for fine fabrics.
Medium weight offers a wide variety of types of interfacing for most projects.
Heavyweight is the stronger type able to add structure to purses and hat brims.

Interfacing Brand Names Available:

Popular Brand Names Are:

Pellon, Bosal, C+ T, Clover, Handler, Thermo-web, Sulky, Vilene

Here are some of the popular types of interfacing:

Peltex – 71F ultra firm interfacing which is great for bag making, crafts, home decorating and quilting
Decorbond 809 – crisp texture
Shapeflex 101 – a woven type
Fuse N shape – double sided and firm
Deco fuse 520 – thin but stiff
Fusible fleece – I use this as lining for a lot of my clutch patterns. It gives a soft feel to the clutch while providing great body.
Organza – this is a very fine, sew-in option for soft fabrics.