7 Types of Pleats in Sewing (With Pictures & Examples)
Pleats are folds of fabric used to add shape, fullness, texture, and decorative detail to garments and home décor projects. While all pleats are created by folding fabric, different pleat styles produce very different effects. Some create volume and movement, while others add structure and tailored lines. Understanding the different types of pleats will help you choose the right style for your sewing project. In this guide, you’ll learn about the most common pleat styles used in clothing and interiors, including box pleats, knife pleats, inverted pleats, accordion pleats, kick pleats, pintucks, and smocking.
What are Pleats?
A pleat is a fold of fabric that is held in place by stitching either at the top, bottom, or both. It adds volume and interest to the otherwise flat, boring fabric. The depth of the pleat can be shallow or deep to reflect the amount of volume you wish to have. Tiny pleats like those formed by a ruffler sewing foot become gathered in appearance. Pleats come in different sizes and can be evenly placed around a garment or unevenly and at strategic points.
If you want step-by-step sewing instructions, see my complete tutorial on How to Sew Pleats.
Types of Pleats Comparison Table
| Pleat Type | Best For | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Box Pleats | Skirts, curtains | Easy |
| Inverted Pleats | Dresses, uniforms | Easy |
| Kick Pleats | Pencil skirts | Easy |
| Knife Pleats | School skirts, fashion | Easy |
| Accordion Pleats | Evening wear | Advanced |
| Pintucks | Shirts, heirloom sewing | Intermediate |
| Smocking | Children’s clothing | Advanced |
How are Pleats Used?
Pleats are used to control fullness while adding style and shape to fabric. In clothing, they allow garments to fit comfortably while creating movement and visual interest. Pleats are commonly found in skirts, dresses, trousers, school uniforms, and jackets. In home décor, pleats are used in curtains, cushions, upholstery, and decorative soft furnishings. Depending on the style, pleats can be purely decorative or serve an important functional purpose.
Types of Pleats
There are many different types of pleats used in sewing, but the seven styles below are the most common in clothing and home décor projects.
Box Pleats
Firstly, we have the popular box pleat. Box pleats have the fabric pressed outwards and in opposite directions and are more commonly used in curtains and other sewing projects rather than clothing. The box pleats can be singular or double-layered. In the yellow dress the box pleat lines are so close together they form inverted pleats in-between. Box pleats are created by pressing equal distances of fabric outwards. The inside corners may be touching or separated.
Best for: Curtains, skirts, uniforms, structured garments.
Inverted Pleats
Most skirts and dresses use inverted pleats. The underneath fabric can be the same, or sometimes an insert is used for a pop of color. Usually, when inverted pleats are sewn, they are only secured at the top and are not pressed all the way down. If you compare this picture and that of the box pleat above, you will see that an inverted pleat is really just an upside-down box pleat. See how the fabric is folded in instead of out.
Best for: School uniforms, tailored skirts, dresses, coats, garments that need controlled fullness.
Kick Pleats
Kick Pleats are a type of inverted pleats that you will find on tight skirts to enable you to be able to walk. When wearing or making a tight skirt below the knee, it will need some kind of pleat or split if you want to take steps that are more than a few inches at a time.
Best for: School uniforms, tennis skirts, fashion skirts.
Knife Pleats
Knife pleats can be large or small and all face the same direction. They are commonly used in skirts. The pleats can be attached to the waistband or start below the hips and are pressed all the way down. Many times these kinds of skirt pleats will need dry cleaning as they are impossible to iron.
Best for: School skirts, tennis skirts, fashion skirts, dresses, kilts, uniforms.
Accordion Pleats
Accordion pleats are evenly spaced in and out pleats used for dresses and skirts. They are often made in permanent press types of fabric so that the pleat extends all the way down the skirt to the hem.
Best for: Evening wear, flowing skirts, maxi dresses, formal fashion, lightweight fabrics.
PinTucks
Pintucks are small pleats that are stitched along their length. Moreover, they add interest and texture to clothing rather than volume. Many tuxedo skirts have fine pintucks along the front. Pintucks can also be sewn across in different directions to add a 3-dimensional look. Similarly, when pintucks are sewn close together and overlapping, you can’t see the stitching, so they look more like tiny folded pleats. You can see this in the tuxedo shirt as opposed to the blue samples, where you can see the stitching.
Best for: Blouses, tuxedo shirts, heirloom sewing, baby clothes, decorative garment details.
Smocking Pleats
Lastly, we have smocked pleats. Smocking uses tiny pleats that are then sewn in place. These types of pleats have an extremely small pleat depth. They are dense with little or no space between them. This style pictured below is a honeycomb pleat. Read my full article on how to do smocking for some other styles.
Best for: Children’s clothing, bishop dresses, cottage-style garments, cuffs, bodices, decorative panels.
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Types of Pleats FAQs
Knife pleats are one of the most common pleat styles and are frequently used in school uniforms, skirts, and dresses.
A box pleat folds outward from the center, while an inverted pleat folds inward toward the center.
Box pleats and knife pleats are usually the easiest pleats for beginners to sew.
No. Pleats create structured folds, while gathers create soft fullness by drawing fabric together with stitching.
Pleats Video Tutorial
This video will show you how to sew a box pleat, inverted pleat, and knife pleat. Subscribe to the Treasurie YouTube channel for weekly sewing videos.
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Types of Pleats – In Conclusion
Pleats are one of the most versatile fabric manipulation techniques in sewing. From the structured look of box pleats and knife pleats to the decorative texture of pintucks and smocking, each style creates a different effect and can completely change the appearance of a garment. When choosing between different types of pleats, consider the amount of fullness you need, the fabric you are using, and the overall style of your project. Beginners will usually find box pleats, inverted pleats, and knife pleats the easiest to sew, while accordion pleats and smocking require more advanced techniques.
Ready to start sewing? Read my complete guide on How to Sew Pleats for step-by-step instructions and practical sewing tips.
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Author - Luisa Clare
Luisa Clare is the founder of Treasurie, a sewing and crochet education platform offering step-by-step tutorials and printable patterns. With over 15 years of experience in dressmaking, pattern design, crochet, and craft education, she specialises in teaching beginners through clear, easy-to-follow lessons. Her tutorials and patterns are used by home sewists and crocheters worldwide to build practical skills and confidence. Learn more about Luisa and Treasurie.
Very informative .