Types of Silk

Welcome to the wonderful world of types of silk. It is a fabric that has history, mystery and a huge variety of fabric variations. Silk is the strongest natural fabric in the world. Nothing can beat silk when it comes to strength and variety. Historically silk has been around for centuries. It was silk that opened up the trade routes to the East. Mystery surrounded how it was made for a long time too as the Chinese were not willing to part with their secret and the huge variety available today is testimony to this wonderful fabric production.

Silk starts out in a natural environment with silkworms producing the raw materials. The most common type of silkworm is the mulberry worm.

It is the Bombyx Mori silkworm that lives and feeds on the mulberry leaves. The silk is harvested from the cocoons spun by the silkworms when they are ready to pupate. The cocoons are boiled and the silk threads used to make the cocoon are unwound and used to make the silk as we knot it.

Natural Types of Silk

These are natural silks, and they vary according to the leaves the worms eat.

Mulberry silk is the most common silk and dominates 80% of the world silks.
Eri silk comes from the species of silkworm feeding on castor oil plants. This silk is known as ‘Peace silk’ because it is not boiled to remove the worms. The fabric is coarser and heavier. It is also known as Tusser silk.
Muga Silk is found in the Assam state of India. It is bright golden yellow.

Pure silk has no additives and is in its raw natural state. Raw silk is the fiber collected directly from the silkworm’s cocoon.

Silk from Other Animals

There are silks that do not come from the various silkworms but these silks are rare and not used for everyday fabrics.

Spider silk is very stretchy and used for bulletproof vests and industrial items.
Sea silk comes from the filaments secreted by the mussels.

Common Types of Silks

There is a multitude of other types of silks and silk blends to choose from in silk fabrics. The following 34 names are just some of the more well-known silks.

Silk Charmeuse

Charmeuse is soft, medium-weight silk with a satin luster on the front. It is also known as silk satin. A beautiful variation of silk, charmeuse drapes well and makes beautiful gowns, blouses and scarves. It is a favorite fabric for wedding gowns. There are variations of Charmeuse including stretch Charmeuse and sand washed Charmeuse as well as suede Charmeuse. It is not an easy fabric to sew because it is very slippery. Lots of hand basting is recommended to hold seams in place before machine sewing.

Chiffon Crepe

Crepe is a light to medium weight silk fabric. This silk is slippery and very soft. It is difficult to sew as it is hard to keep together while sewing. Combat this by using silk pins or hand basting.

Silk Gauze

Gauze is a very light, soft silk fabric with a beautiful sheen. This silk is also used as interfacing and linings for other silk creations.

Embossed, Embroidered and Beaded Silks

Silk lends itself to being beaded, embroidered and embossed. These embellished silks are very popular for wedding dresses.

Silk Dupioni

Dupioni is a medium weight reversible silk. It has a crisp texture and does not crease easily. Dupioni is easier to sew than Charmeuse or chiffon. The shimmer and light lustre of this fabric make it a very attractive fabric to use for extra special gowns. It needs to be pre-washed and handled with care to avoid snagging.

Fuji Silk

Fuji is a medium-weight and one of the inexpensive types of silk. It drapes very well and is used very successfully for the lining of clothing such as jackets.

Silk Organza

This silk is heavier and stiffer than silk gauze. It is sheer and makes up beautifully for veils. Silk organza is the base fabric used for embroidery and embellishments.

Silk Shantung

Shantung is a medium to heavyweight silk. In India, it is known as Tussah silk. The silk is collected from silkworms feeding on oak leaves. It is strong and crisp and does not crease too much.

Silk Noil

Noil is one of the types of silk with a matt finish. It is made from the short fibers left over after the silk has been combed and carded. It looks like cotton but has a silken feel to the fabric.

Silk Broadcloth

Broadcloth is suitable for shirts and tailored clothes. Silk broadcloth feels like cotton and holds creases well. Sewing with this fabric is a much easier experience than many others.

Crepe de Chine

This fabric is smooth and has great luster. Crepe de chine drapes well and is a comfortable fabric to wear.

Silk Georgette

Georgette is a strong silk fabric but it is difficult to sew because it snags easily. It has a grainy texture and is good for dressmaking.

Silk Crepe

Crepe is a light-weight textured silk with a pleasant sheen.

Canton Silk

This silk is heavier than crepe de chine. It comes from Canton in China and is greenish in color. It has a soft crinkly surface.

Four Ply Silk

Four strands of yarn are twisted together to make this silk yarn. It is a medium to heavyweight fabric and heavier than silk crepe. Four ply silk is sought after for dressmaking.

Silk Metal Tissue

These types of silk have an open weave and luster created by the metalized threads incorporated into the fabric. It is stiff and has an unusual shine, but is difficult to care for. It can not be dry cleaned or washed and shrinks when washed.

Silk Gaberdine

Gaberdine is a form of silk with a twill weave. This creates a distinct diagonal line on the fabric. It is a durable crisp fabric and ideal for making skirts and suits.

Silk Taffeta

Taffeta has a distinct texture and makes a rustling sound when it is moved. It is a reversible fabric and may be soft or stiff depending on the make of taffeta.

Peau de Soie

This silk satin has two different names. It is also known as duchess satin or bridal satin. It looks like silk charmeuse with a moderately stiff draped effect. It is easy to sew.

Habutai/Habotai Silk

Habutai silk is a lightweight fabric. It drapes beautifully and does not crease easily. Habutai is also known as parachute fabric. It is used for lining and for light dresses and skirts.

China Silk

China silk is a very thin form of silk fabric. It looks similar to Habotai silk and is best suited to a soft lining.

Silk Pongee

Pongee is a form of raw types of silk that drapes softly. It is lighter than silk habotai and inexpensive to buy.

Silk Velvet

Silk velvet is a very beautiful form of silk with a pile. It makes great drapes and beautiful gowns.

Spun Silk

Spun silk is another form of silk made with short fibers. The surface of this silk feels rough and more like cotton.

Damask silk

Damask is a woven silk with jacquard patterns woven into the fabric.

Watered Silk

Watered silk is interesting in that a watermark type of design is incorporated into the fabric.

Shot Silk

Different colors of thread are used in the warp and weft of shot silk fabric. This creates an iridescent appearance.

Types of Silk - By Country of Origin

Thai Silk

Similar to shantung silk, Thai silk comes from Thailand. It is a tightly woven good quality silk.

Japanese Silks

Chirimen silk, Tsumugi silk, Chichibu-meisen and Kinsha silk are all beautiful silks originating for Japan. They are light weight and soft and made with beautiful patterns.

Indian Silks

India is well known for its silk fabrics. The Indian women wear saris of silk and have many types of silk to choose from. Surah, Garad and Kashemere silk are just a few of the renowned silks from India.

Types of Silk - by Composition

Silk can be classified by its fiber composition:

Cotton Silk

Silk blends well with other fibres and cotton silk is a blend of cotton and silk. It is a heavier fabric but less expensive than silk.

Wool Silk

Wool silk is another blended fabric of wool and silk. This fabric brings out all the good qualities of both wool and silk. Wool for warmth and silk for a light weight fabric. Wool silk drapes well and does not wrinkle.

Art Silk

Art silk is artificial silk made of rayon fibers. Art silk is an inexpensive substitute for real silk. It appears to be like silk but is not durable and has less drape.

Types of Silk In Conclusion

Now you know all about the types of silk it is time to start sewing this beautiful fabric. Silk is one of the most versatile and wonderful natural fabrics.

EARN HOW TO SEW WITH MORE FABRICS

Now you know all about sewing denim, check out these other fabrics listed alphabetically.

CHIFFON – Sewing Chiffon
BATIK – What is Batik
CANVAS – Sewing Canvas
COTTON – Sewing Cotton
DENIM – Sewing Denim
FELT – Sewing Felt
FUR – Sewing Fur
KNITS – How to Sew Stretch Fabric
INTERFACING – Types of Interfacing
LACE – How to Sew Lace
LEATHER – Sewing Leather and Types of Leather
RAYON – Sewing Rayon
SHEER – Sewing Sheer Fabrics
SILK – How to Sew Silk
THICK – Sewing Thick Fabrics
VELVET Sewing Velvet and Types of Velvet
WOOL – Sewing Wool and Types of Wool

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